Question about Ryobi 10 in. Portable Table Saw with Stand RTS20

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The blade of my new Ryobi 10" table saw won't lower or raise using the height/bevel adjusting handwheel.

I bought a new Ryobi table saw (Ryobi 10 in. Portable Table Saw with stand RTS20) this evening and before I could even make my first test cut something went wrong with the mechanism that lowers and raises the blade. It "feels" to me that the handwheel is no longer engaging the bolt which engages the mechanism. Yes, I know that I could just box the tool up and head back to Home Depot and swap it out for another one, but I would rather just solve the issue myself and start ripping if the fix is quick and easy. I hope someone has advice, other than the obvious course of action I've already stated.

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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AlmostBob
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SOURCE: Ryobi Circular Saw

unplug saw
new Ryobi have a spindle lock button, it is unobtrusive and you may miss it
739d802.gif If yours does not, secondhand etc, a screwdriver in the blade teeth between the upper and lower guards provides a locking bar enough to undo the arbor bolt

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

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  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: Band saw blade wanders.

cut freehand. A bandsaw blade will always run off to one side or the other, even using a fence.

The rip fence is intended for re-sawing only, and very thin strips

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

brewerstool
  • 141 Answers

SOURCE: where can I find replacement blade gide

The part number is
080007005056 . They are $9.92 each and you can get they from Ryobi's website.
Click this link and enter the part number above then click on the little check mark to the right of the listed part.

powertools_on.gif

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: cut is always crooked

It took me a very long time to adjust my ryobi bandsaw properly. The guides above and below need to be straight, and the guides just barely not touching. The blade should be tight, and make a musical note somewhere above middle c when you pluck it.

Posted on Nov 28, 2009

  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: Unable to make a straight

Hello, I think that the problem you are having is called "drift" . each blade will cut different than the last. The way I was taught to cure this goes as follows.
-take fence off off table(or just move over)
-get a good square piece of material appx. 1x3 and mark a straight line about 1/2" from edge the full length of the board.
-with out the fence cut the board along the line appx. 1/2 the length.
-shut off saw WITH board in it.
-use a angle finder along the edge of the board, set angle finder
-remove board and put the fence back on.
-now slide the angle finder up to the fence, you should see that the angle is different than the fence (this is the DRIFT ), adjust the fence to the angle finder( I know that the smaller saws usalley don't have this adjustment ) you will have to find a way i.e. shim etc.

This is a very common problem but once you get the idea it is a easy fix
Remember: A guy taught me and I taught you, pass it along thats what we do.LOL
Hope it helped.
The Shop Dog

Posted on Oct 26, 2010

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You didn't give your model.

Protech is out of business so I could not find a user's guide for you.

The knob on the front that you use to raise and lower the blade also adjusts the angle. Depending on your saw, normally the knob releases from raise/lower mode to angle adjustment by either pulling the knob out and moving it or by pushing a lever to release it and then moving the knob.

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My Bosch 4000 blade will not go down any farther than an inch above the top of the table.I have checked and cleaned all the gear area and can see nothing that is causing it .


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Now, just remedied the blade height adjustment problem, here is how:

Unplug saw.

Removed blade....not easy when you cannot raise the blade, flip the saw upside down and remove the plastic shield, turn saw upright and remove blade.

Used my compressor with blower attachment and blasted all of the dust out of the gears and screw rods with saw upright and upside down, bevel saw to 45 degrees to gain more access..

Sprayed quite liberally with silicone spray lube and gently worked blade height adjustment, adding more lube, cranking wheel, more lube....blade adjustment now works like the day I bought the saw.

DO NOT USE WD40 or the like. This will just attract more dirt in a very short amount of time.

We'll see how the silicone spray holds up.

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Adjustments
LARGEHEXWRENCH
TO REPLACeTHE BLADE
See Figures 43 - 45.
 Unplug the saw.
 Lower the saw blade, raise the blade guard, and remove the throat plate.
 Make sure the bevel locking lever is securely pushed to the left. Raise the saw blade to its full height by turning the height/bevel adjusting handwheel clockwise.
 Using the smaller hex wrench, insert the flat open end into the flats on the arbor shaft.
 Insert the closed end of the larger hex wrench over the hex nut. Holding both wrenches firmly, pull the larger wrench forward to the front of the machine. Make sure the blade nut is securely tightened. Do not overtighten.
Check all clearances for free blade rotation. See To Set the Scale to the Blade. In cutting operations, the scale will be set to the side of the blade where the cut will be measured and made.
To replace the blade with an accessory blade, follow the instructions provided with the accessory.
To install a standard blade:
 Place the new blade on the arbor shaft (the teeth must point down toward the front of the saw to work properly).
 Place the blade washer and the blade nut over the blade arbor. Be sure the dome side of the blade washer faces out from the blade and that all items are snug against the arbor housing. Tighten securely.
SMALLHEXWRENCH
Fig. 43
Blade
Bladewasher
arbor shaft
Bladenut
Fig. 44
BLADEGUARD
THROATPLATE
spreader
BLADE
Fig. 4535
ADJUSTMENTS
 Rotate the blade by hand to make sure it turns freely.
 Lower the saw blade and reinstall the throat plate.
NOTE: Securely tighten throat plate screws. Do not allow the throat plate to bow up above the table surface.

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