Question about GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer

6 Answers

Doesnt stop filling on super load and doesnt spin

Washer is 2 years old. ge wdsr2080dbww (model) sl119416g (serial). on super load it doesnt stop filling and water gets on floor. on large/small load once filled with water; it doesnt cycle. sounds like its running but nothing is happening. can you tell me what is wrong?

thank you

Posted by on

  • tlduplessisj Jan 04, 2009

    the washer is filling up to much and draining down the overflow tub.

  • tlduplessisj Jan 05, 2009

    the water stops once i push in the cycle button but why does it not stop on its on? and once its full why does it not agitate, spin etc.?

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6 Answers

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If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator

If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

for more detailed help click this link
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp#Level1_3

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Welcome to Fixya! It is Defniately the Water Level Switch causing this Problem.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Overflowprotection on this machine is a pressure switch (like a typical waterlevel switch on a washing machine). Too high a water level in the tubincreases air pressure into the switch via the hose to trigger it. Thetub-end is simply a small opening in the sump onto which the hoseconnects.
Thefill period is timed at 2 minutes (two timer increments). It shouldfill the entire 2 minutes *without* overfilling, the timer should shutoff the water *before* the overfill switch triggers. Sounds like yourwater valve may be missing the flow-washer, or you have very high waterpressure.

Adjusting by way of your water tap is a workaround ... but can be a bit dangerous.

doesnt stop filling on super load and doesnt spin - icon_smile.gif

Youdon't want to short the fill, or the pump can be starved for water andwashing performance will suffer. If you set the fill a little too high,it may not leak during normal operation, but if you open the door, orthere's a power failure, etc., and the circulating water settles down,it could leak a little then. If the water level comes up in contactwith the wash arm, the arm can slosh a little water through the doorvent when it begins rotating on a restart.
Thepressure switch is NOT there to fill the machine to the proper level,the timer does that. The pressure switch is there to preventoverfilling in case the water pressure is so high that it wouldoverfill the machine or if the drain valve failed to open to drain thewater out, the dishwasher would not then fill again and flood.
Youneed to replace the pressure switch so that it protects the machine. Ifthere was a way that you could take a picture of the broken piece itwould help. Some of these machines had a rubber tube that went into thesmall hole on the left side of the sump and would lock into place whenpulled thru to the outside of the tank. Some had a tube welded to thetank with a rubber hose attached to it. If that is what borke then youwill have to be more creative to repair it. If it is simply the switchthat is an easy repair provided you can get the switch. If it is onlythe connecting hose, well, you should be able to repair that as well.
Clickon this link.. Bubbabendix seems to have spares for your model machineso send him a note and l;et him know what you need. Parts for thoseolder machines are basically no longer available unless you get reallylucky.
Hope this helps
Steve

http://www.automaticwasher.org/TD/THREADS/VINTAGE/20045x5.htm

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 05, 2009

    Its a 2" dia. thats about 3" above the top of the washer. It only has
    about 30" before the trap though. then it "Ts" into the main down pipe
    (where I ran the snake). The fact that I can run 2 rinse cycles back to
    back without it overflowing if what miffs me. If it was blockage that
    should cause an overflow I would think
    your machine drain pipe is wrong position


  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 05, 2009

    : Let me clarify a bit here. I run 2 rinses (no clothes, no soap) back
    to back and no overflow. Next day the FIRST load of clothes washed
    backs up the overflow. I would think a partial clog would drain down
    over night.

    Plumbing info: Ive got traps at the sink and at the washer drain pipe.
    None after that. Washer drain->trap->down tube with a
    vent->90° elbow->2.0ø pipe to a drop "T" (t with a slight
    drop)->3.0ø main line->septic tank. I have a tub, 2 toilets, and
    2 sinks upstream from the drop "t" (t is after if you follow my
    rambling) that I think would back up.



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If you can duplicate the problem then see if the water stops when you push in on the timer knob..If not and you have to turn off the water at the wall then you would have a bad water valve..It is located inside the control panel where the hoses enter the machine

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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If a washing machine constantly fills with water, the water has to go somewhere. It either floods out of the washing machine, or it siphons down the drain. The most important thing to try and work out is whether it is overfilling, or whether the washing machine filling all the time is caused by something else such as siphoning caused by incorrect plumbing.
Ifthe washing machine overfills, the water level can be seen rising wayabove halfway up the door glass and eventually it may start to floodout of the back or out of the soap drawer. If this is happening to yourwashing machine then read washing machine is overfillingwhich deals with overfilling where water floods out of the machine asopposed to costantly filling with the water going down the drain.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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That means that either the water level switch, or the inlet valve must be replaced, give me the model number to find parts and diagrams.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 04, 2009

    When this happens it is often because either the inlet valve stays stuck on open, or because the water level switch is defective.
    Only in rare occasions you may have similar problems because of a fault concering the control assembly.


    You need to have the following parts tested and eventually replaced:


    PS1155105 Inlet valve

    PS2322454 Water level switch.

    You find all parts and diagram for your appliance here.



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