Question about Bosch 24 in. SHX46A05UC Built-In Dishwasher
The motor is activated but no cycle begins. We just secured and leveled the unit as it was always unlevel. Could we have done something to the unit in the leveling securing process. Perhaps there is some kind of activator switch that was compromised.
SOURCE: Water in Dishwasher Bottom
Hello Richard, Welcome to Fixya ! You've come to the right place. The problem you're experiencing unfortunately is a common one. The water inlet valve has been an issue with B/S/H built ( this includes bosch, thermador, seimens & gaggenau ) dishwasher's going back to the mid 90's. The part to repair it is available at most brick & mortar appliance part centers or you can check out on-line vendors such as repairclinic, apwagner etc. Do a search for part # 1105846 at repairclinic, you'll see what I'm talikng about. By the way it's about $35. Hope that helps move you forward. Let me know if I can assist you further, or need help on how to change it etc. It's relatively easy with Bosch. Thanks for coming to "fixya" for your inquiries and please take a second to rate this answer according to my helpfulness. Goof luck. Macmarkus :)
Posted on May 04, 2010
Are you please able to confirm what exactly is happening when you mention "dishwasher just keeps going".
Is it in a wash cycle and throwing the water around through the wash arms or do you just hear a pump running with water sitting in the base. Most likely there is a leak into the base and the auto stop circuit is trying to empty the dishwasher by running the drain pump. I would suggest you check the base of dishwasher for leaks.
Posted on Jan 28, 2011
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
Based on your postit may just be a loose/burnt connection in the dishwasher junction box or a severed wire in the door panel. (though a faulty door latch is possible...I'd start with the things I suggest here first)
** I would start by first shutting off the breaker...safety first**
Then removing the kick plate ( access panel at the bottom )...
...and checking the wiring at the junction box for the dishwasher 120vac supply line.
Remove the murret's and visually inspect the wire for "resistance burn" and strip the wires back and install new fastener's if necessary to repair.
This is actually quite common to find a wire connector come loose due to improper fastening and once the unit is in use for a while the connections heat & cool, become loose from normal operating vibrations and burn up from all the added heat caused by "resistance".
Typically this will manifest in just the manner you've described.
If it looks OK there I'd remove the outer door panel ( careful the edges are sharp ) via the #20 torx head screws...
...check for a severed wire at the pivot point in the door, typically covered in a plastic casing as shown here..
The small plastic blocks which may be present in the bottom corners of the door panel, i.e.
...they can be a pain to re-install, but they do only go in one way, however it is ok to leave them out...their only purpose is to strengthen the structure.
Good luck and let me know what you find and I'll try to assist you further if necessary. Thank you for choosing FixYa today for your inquiry.
Posted on Sep 29, 2011
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