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Fisher Paykal ecosmart top load dryer: replaced heating elements and resetable thermostat, heating elements are powered up then down continuously but at random, clicking sound as this occurrs.

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  • Dryers Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the model number of your unit?

Posted on Nov 03, 2012

  • 1 more comment 
  • Scott Burns Nov 03, 2012

    Thanks for the response. Model DEGX1

  • Scott Burns Nov 05, 2012

    could it be the either the dryer control module OR the sensor control module that could be bad. Do I have to replace the entire unit if so? How about a particular piece in the unit?

  • Scott Burns Nov 05, 2012

    I meant to say the motor control module OR the sensor control module. Thanks for any insight you can provide for trouble shooting. Had to take all the washed cloths to laundrymat today for drying, wife no happy. Trying desperately to not to have a guy come out and charge me a pint of blood to "look" at it.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Stays Warm

Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.

Posted on Aug 23, 2007

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110 Heating Element & Thermostat

believe that model has a relay under console..pull console end caps off remove screw on each end roll console back..if your model has an electronic bd it also has a heat relay it will be the one with 2 large red wires.. a quick ck would be to unplug power remove the red wires and tape bear ends together pug back up turn on dryer if it heats unplug and exchange the 2 relays the one with the blue wires is the motor relay and is same as heat relay try again if motor fails to start bad relay if motor starts bad control bd

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer Top Hot / New Heating Element Smell

Any time you perform work inside a dryer, lint can get kicked around and settle on components. It is common to have a slight burning smell for a day or so. However, your dryer getting too hot to the touch concerns me. Improper air flow is the number one cause of dryer overheating problems. You may have cleaned the lint out of the interior of your dryer, but did you check the air blower and vent duct lines? In addition, was the heating elements actually bad? Or, did you assume it was bad, because your dryer wasn't drying properly? The following link can explain:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. I would recommend you remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry another load. If the dryer dries more efficiently and the top panel does not get scorching hot to the touch, then you have a vent clog somewhere EXTERNAL to the dryer. If the dryer air flow exiting the dryer is weak and the dryer still gets too hot to the touch, you have a clog INSIDE the dryer.

Follow these steps, first and see what you find. If you verify your ventilation is clear and not kinked or clogged anywhere, then you might assume you have a component malfunction. I would hope to try to save you from purchasing parts you may not need. I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

PS Make sure you are using semi-rigid (metal type) vent ducting. It is crush resistant, heat resistant, does not kink easily, and resists rodents. It is what most manufacturers recommend. If you haven't replaced the dryer vent in a while, this may be a good time.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel DEGX2 Dryer. Need heating element changed?

I had the same problem. Everyone continued to tell me that I needed a new heating element, clean lint trap, etc. However, I took the front off of the dryer and located the heating element. On the front of the heating element, in between two wires, there is a red button. Push the button and you might hear a click that sounds similar to a circuit breaker. It is a reset button for the heating element. Try that and it might help.

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

tbirdfan1
  • 3051 Answers

SOURCE: My dryer does not heat. Fuse, thermostats, heat

dryer_heating-element.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.

dryer_thermal-fuse.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
dryer_thermostat.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
dryer_timer.jpg Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.







Posted on Feb 06, 2010

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1 Answer

My top load dryer is not heating


heater element or thermostat needs checking....

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Nov 02, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel WA37TG1 Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Fisher pakel will run wont heat have hit reset button and will work fine for a couple of loads then does the same thing I hit reset button and will work again


9 times out of 10 the element is bad, it sounds like you have the true top load dryer. in the cage that has the reset-able tstat, there is two element packs. half of it is burned, and it is heating alot near that tstat, making it trip. Take out the element packs, and let me know how it turned out.

Sep 17, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel Dryers

1 Answer

Fisher paykel dryer won't heat / dry clothes.


Hi ducktalk61...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 11, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel SMARTLOAD DE62TG1...

1 Answer

Dryer not heating up? I read that there is a reset button but need a diagram to know where to start. Thank you


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Dec 27, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel Dryers

1 Answer

There is no heat, when i pushed the reset button it blew warm air for a few minutes. Now there is no heat again. What can i do, or what do i need to fix. Where is the heating element. I can't see it...


Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Heating Element
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
This is a free answer, Please rate me.

Oct 10, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My fisher and paykel dryer is taking a long time to dry cloths do I need a new heating element


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Oct 05, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Fisher Paykel DEGX1 no heat, therm tripping - used multimeter


Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ This forum will work you through your problem

May 31, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My Fisher Paykel dryer DEGX2 WAS TAKING LONGER AND LONGER TO DRY CLOTHES AND THEN JUST STOP DRYING-DOESN'T GET WARM. THE HEATING ELEMENT WAS REPLACED ABOUT 7 MONTHS AGO. IS THERE A RESET BUTTON IN THE...


Hi.

There is no reset circuit.

Parts that must be tested are high limit thermostat and timer board.
The timer board is replaced if it is visibly faulty, or if there is no problem elsewhere.
The high limit located near to the element is tested reading impedance with a multimeter set at Rx1. If there is no continuity , the thermostat must be replaced.

Before testing parts check the lint filter, and ensure that air ducts are clean.

Regards.

Nov 13, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Fisher & Paykal washing machine, Mod:GHL10US


if you want to find out for sure post your email here and i will send you the service manual

Jan 15, 2008 | Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

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