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I am looking for information on stacking kenmore elite he4 washer and dryer

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  • Dryers Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What do you need to know?

Posted on Nov 03, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

dididsaythat
  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Error Code E1

got a model #

Posted on Sep 02, 2007

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer Rack

On mine, nothing "clamps down". There are 3 positions in the plastic rack into which you can insert the wire rest - "F", "H", and "A". God knows what they mean (I think the one rack is intended to be used in various dryers, of different depths), but if I use the rearmost position = "A", the back end of the wire rest rests on the non-moving rear of the drum, and the front of the rack rests on the lint screen holder. Seems to work, but the instructions leave a lot to be desired.

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Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Want to stack my Kenmore HE4 Dryer on top of my Kenmore HE3t W/M

When you originally ordered the dryer, it should've come with a stacking kit that is compatible with the HE 3T or HE 4T washer. It is basically a foam piece that goes on each side of the washer, and then the dryer is connected to it from the side. If you do not have this piece, it should be available to order if you visit http://www.searspartsdirect.com Just enter the model number from your dryer (inside the door frame) and it should pull up a parts list. Or just try searching for a stacking kit for Kenmore dryer. Hope this helps.

Posted on May 20, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Clean Dryer Lint Vent in Kenmore elite HE4

If you wish to clean the interior cabinet of the dryer follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltages are still present even with the dryer turned off.

2. Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You must remove the lint screen first in order to remove the blower fan housing.

3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: For better access, you can prop the front feet of the dryer up (a 2x4 works well).

4. Loosen the screws on the blower fan housing directly below the drum and remove. There's usually a small clip holding the cover in at the bottom that you may need to pull out to release. NOTE: You may also have to disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (yellow wires with white plug - use a small screwdriver to release the locking tabs) and/or ground wire to accommodate removal of the cover.

You should now have access to the dryer interior and the blower fan squirrel cage motor. Take the time to clean out the blower fan housing cover as well. A long bristle brush made for dryers works well at removing any lint inside the dryer in the hard to reach places, followed by vacuuming.

NOTE: After cleaning, you may experience a slight burning odor. This is normal as lint gets stirred up in the cleaning process and can settle on the heating components. The odor should dissipate after a short period of use.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Smartheat Quietpak 9 HE4 dryer taking longer to dry

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


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Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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1 Answer

Any known issues with the Kenmore Elite He4 Electric Dryer 11085089400?


Besides the thermal fuse, the thermistor, main control board, door locking system and the problems all over youtube and google, the dryer may last you about a year or so. That is if you only do laundry one a year. The HE4's are ****. Have both washer and dryer for about 5 years. I could now be a sears repair man with the amount of knowledge I had to digest while fixing these things. NEVER, NEVER again will I buy kenmore!

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Does the kenmore elite he4 washer belt go on with the ridges up or down


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http://www.fixya.com/support/r3609900-drive_belt_installation_whirlpool_front

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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We have the dryer stacked on top of the washer and though we have always cleaned the screen, the dryer doesn't dry very well now. it's 5 years old now.


its likley to be one of your heaters has burned out, it has two one for low heat one for high heat on low only one works,,, both work for high heat

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Aug 27, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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Want to stack my Kenmore HE4 Dryer on top of my Kenmore HE3t W/M


When you originally ordered the dryer, it should've come with a stacking kit that is compatible with the HE 3T or HE 4T washer. It is basically a foam piece that goes on each side of the washer, and then the dryer is connected to it from the side. If you do not have this piece, it should be available to order if you visit http://www.searspartsdirect.com Just enter the model number from your dryer (inside the door frame) and it should pull up a parts list. Or just try searching for a stacking kit for Kenmore dryer. Hope this helps.

May 18, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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The bottom panel of the kenmore elite he4 wsher


There is a 1/4" screw on on both bottom corners. Take these two screws out and pull the cover from the bottom straight out. It hangs on the pedestal if you have one, so a little effort is required.

Jan 05, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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Very loud after stacking.


I assume you used the kit for stacking and removing the top of the washer and installing the plates?



You might need some sticky rubber pads to stop metal to metal contact and some duct tape around the vent exiting the dryer where it meets its back panel. This is common, you could go specific or browse ace hardware and find a compatible source.

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