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yes but a sub woofer out is better. You may have to crank up the sub response. If it has a level on the sub with a crossover set the cross over to around 120hz. And set the bass on your receiver as you feel appropriet.
The capacitors in the amplification module on the back side of the subwoofer unit (unplug and unscrew amp unit) usually are the second components to check after the fuse. They look like black batteries with white text defining their ratings. It appears to be a commonly under ratted capacity for those that challenge the upper limits of their surround system capacity. (Poor neighbors) These act very much like a battery but quickly build a charge and then release a charge. These can be replaced with higher capacity units that are larger in size and may need to be relocated with extended wires to handle the power demands by the user. They can be ordered online and replaced after discharge and soldered into the proper terminals. The Proper Positive and negative terminals must be followed for proper function when replacing.
Subwoofers are hard working speakers, it consumes more power than the satellite speakers, chances are it's easily get busted on high volume. Try to open and check the voice coil for continuity. see if you can repair it or replace
You will not need to y connect your subwoofer, if you have only one RCA sub out on your receiver the other end of the RCA connector cable goes into the left input on most powered subs, there is no loss of signal, the option exist as some receiver do sport a double RCA sub out.
Your 2A 250v slow-blow fuse is blown, located under the back pannel. Mine just did the same thing. Problem is the problem with my PSW10 goes beyond the fuse. I have contacted Polk tech support to help me trouble shoot.