Question about Intertherm Miller Nordyne Control Circuit Board 903429

1 Answer

Getting 14.6 volts to gas without call for heat

Replaced control board same thing happening

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  • matt lyall Nov 03, 2012

    is there an external transformer?

  • Edward Barnes
    Edward Barnes Nov 03, 2012

    Just the one powering the board this about the low voltage to the gas valve when not calling for heat. vave won't open on call

  • Edward Barnes
    Edward Barnes Nov 05, 2012

    foun d this normal with this set up and problem was with switch on gas valve

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  • 38 Answers

Your transformer is weak should be 24volts posiable too much load or possable cross of power source like 2 transformers,

Posted on Nov 03, 2012

  • Edward Barnes
    Edward Barnes Nov 03, 2012

    Matt it is 14.6 with no call with call it's 25 volt . Installed new board , got same readings

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1 Answer

No power to gas valve


Have you checked the wires from the board to the gas valve? You should get 24 volts after igniter glows.

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Carrier gas heater


You may have a defective control board or blower motor. You will need to find on the main control board the location where the blower motor (marked heat) is connected. Using a volt meter, after resetting the limits and restarting unit, you will need to check and see if the board is supplying 1115 volts to blower motor (between the blower heat terminal and one of the neutral terminals on board). Also have someone hold in the door safety switch, or put a piece of tape on the switch, The switch will pop out when the bottom furnace door is removed, this is the normal location of control board. As the furnace goes through its normal cycle and prior to locking out on safety (limit opening) you should get 115 volts from the board (terminal marked blower / heat). If the board does not put out 115 volts, then the board is defective. If the board puts out 115 volts and the blower does not operate, the blower motor is probably defective, there is one more check to do. Close the door and put your system in cooling, see if the motor starts, if it does, then the low speed (reactor) is defective and motor needs replacing. If the motor does not start in cooling mode, you may have a defective capacitor. Check all of the above first and see what happens. Good luck, and be careful.

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Frigidaire furnace wont light pilot. we have replaced igniter and pressure switch


Gas valve solenoid have continuity? No continuity replace the valve
Getting 24 volts to the gas valve? No voltage from control board check fuse on control board.
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Whirlpool DU1055 dishwasher keeps rinsing without going to 'dry cycle, to complete the wash. What is the problem? Thanks, David


Hello

There is several things to check:

Heating element: by Ohming it out to check for continuity,

Control board: to check to see if the heater is getting 120 volts to it in Heated dry cycle.

Do you use Jet Dry or any Rinse Aid?

I always advice consumers to use this.

Check your owners guide , you may have a 2-5 yr. part warranty on the control board.

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1 Answer

It runs the battery down


Does your frig have 110, Gas and 12 volt setting? ... or is it auto select?

This is the way they should work ... if there is 110 Volts, it should run on 110 volts. The device is still controlled by 12 volts but the heat source is electric. If there is no 110 volts, it should switch to gas as a heat source. Same deal with the control, runs on 12 volts. If there is no electric and no gas, it should select 12 volts for a heat source ... same deal with the control. Problem with 12 volt source for heat is it GOBBLES up the power in your battery.

How is your battery? Do a volt test on the battery and the charger. Charger should run about 14 volts. Battery should provide at least 11 volts. If it is such that you can measure the acid, a good reading is 1200. Your charger can provide only about 15 amps charging power. Your battery should be able to provide up to 110 amp/hours.

If you do have electric and gas, it may not be your frig that is killing the battery ...

Thanks for your quesiton @ FixYa.com

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1 Answer

I have a dayton 3e228d wont fire up tried jumpin the t-stat still nothing


Hello, the first thing is determine if you are getting 24 volts at the W and C terminal on the intergrated control board on a call for heat. If not I would suspect a bad transformer. if you are getting 24 volts but the inducer motor is not running than check for a 120 volts at the inducer motor if you are getting 120 volts to the inducer and it does not start than it is bad and must be replaced. however if you are not getting 120 to the inducer than most likley your control board is bad and must be replaced.

Mar 10, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Wife put the oven on clean cycle last night. This morning the heating element will not turn off, a one inch section glows orange. Turned oven off, put it back on clean, broil and off again, no change.


You probably just need a new bake element. Many ranges supply 120 volts to one side of the bake element at all times, switching the other side of the 240 voltage to it (and completing a circuit) when it needs to heat. If the element shorts to ground, the 120 volts can heat though a section of the element to the ground. OK, so much for the technical stuff. Turn power off to range. Replace bake element. Re-connect power. If it works, great. If it heat without turning oven "on" now, that would indicate that the electrical contacts in the bake relay on the control board have welded themselves together, necessitating replacing the control board. Let's hope you are not unlucky enough to have had that happen. (sometimes that happens as the result of an element failure)

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Kenmore Elite Gas range, model # 790.79363401 The range works but the oven does not seem to heat up. It appears to ignite, just not get hot.


Hello,

the problem should be from the heating element of your Kenmore Elite Gas range. The heating element is either defective or may have loosed contact as a result of heat coming out of the Oven. The heat coming from the oven may have melted the wire connected to the heating element which might not make it heat up.

Disassemble the oven and check if its actually the wire connected to heating element that got melted, or its time to replace the heating element.

Good luck.

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1 Answer

MY BLOWER WAS REPLACED IN THE SUMMER BUT IT NEVER TURNED OFF UNLESS WE SHUT IT OFF AT THE SWITCH. NOW I SWITCHED THE TSTAT TO HEAT AND THE INDUCER FAN TURNS ON WITH THE BLOWER BUT NOTHING EKSE TURNS ON. NO...


be sure the fan setting on the stat is set for auto, not on. in this mode the fan should only run when there is a call for cool or heat.if the fan continues to run check at the control board to see if you are getting 24 volts low voltage between green and common. if you are then the stat is bad. if youaren't then your electric control board is possibly bad. a lot of gas furnaces fall into a failsafe mode when a sensor or function fails and the blowers stay on 24 7. you may well have several problems from what you are saying. if you turn everthing off and start a new cycle for heat the first thing that should fire up is the induced draft motor , then the ignotor, then the gas valve. you can check each item with a meter , generally 120 volts to the induced draft motor, then 120 volts to the ignitior, the 24 volts to the gas valve. then ignition and 120 volts to the motor. most furnaces have a heat terminal and a cool terminal on the board. common to heat should get 120 volts on a call for heat after the sequence of operationb has taken place. 120 volts should be sent to cool terminal on a call for cool. a continueous blower is a sign of a failed safety. perhaps the motor failed and the safety opened and the motor was replaced but the safety never reset?. look at all the little micro temp sensors around the burner. they are like little breakers and need to be pushed in to reset . usually like a little stem that pops out from a metal or plastic dic. some are size of a quarter, some the size of a dime.

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