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Kenmore c970-655821 Oven will not heat. Broiler is not working not is the lower element.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Oven will not heat up.

eerb, most likley your ignitor failed. When you turn the oven on to bake you should hear a relay click on the electronic control (clock). You can do a couple of things here. If you have a ohmmeter the ignitor should ohm out at between 50 and 150 ohms. You can physically swap out the bake and broil ignitors to see if the ignitor comes on in bake. Or you can swap the bake and broil wires on the board. They should be marked BA and BR. This way when you turn on bake, the broil ignitor should glow and verify you have power going to it. Carefull when testing, be sure to kill power to the range before any changes. Catriver...post back

Posted on Dec 12, 2006

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: GE Spectra XL 44 Gas Oven Bottom Heating Element Faulty

First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.

Posted on Nov 05, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: broiler quit

Have you checked the broil element resistance? Unplug the range and remove the back cover. Remove the wires from the broiler element and place a meter across the element posts. See if the element reads close to a short (It should read very low resistance if good). If the element reads infinite (open), you will have to replace the broil element. If the readings are normal, you may have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. The board controls the bake and broil features of the oven through two separate circuits. Usually a relay on the board goes bad. Since the ERC is considered "non-serviceable", replacement components can be hard to find. For this reason, the entire assembly is usually replaced. The ERC runs around $100 for your range, while the broil element can run anywhere from $35 to $60. Now...as far as your self-cleaning function is concerned - most electric ranges use BOTH elements to super heat the oven cavity to about 700 - 800 degrees F. With one of the elements not working, there's a good possibility the self-cleaning function will not work either Double check the items I mentioned and let me know if this helps you.

Posted on Feb 02, 2008

SOURCE: GE JBP30 oven bottom element not working after being replaced

I would be looking at the bake relay on teh coven control board. Using a voltage meter test the output voltage when energizing the bake feature. Be sure to remove the bake element wire coming from the bake element to the control. Test this terminal without the bake element wire attached. From the terminal with one meter probe to the neutral on the terminal block (where your cord attaches to), you should read 110 volts when energized and 0 voltge when shut off. What are you reading? If I can help further, I am here.....

Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: oven quit working

Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.

Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.

You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.

The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.

Please rate and god bless:)

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

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