Question about GE QuickClean JBS07M 30" Electric Ranwith 4 Coil Elements, 5.3 cu. ft. Manual Clean Oven, Dual Element Bake and StoraDrawer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.
Posted on Nov 05, 2007
The one thing I don't suggest is using the Ceramabryte product the dealer left with us. It leaves a greasy film. When I get ready to clean my black GE Profile, I pull off the controls to wash separately. Then I lift off the grates, take a single-edge razor blade to scrape anything stuck on (it doesn't scratch), then I use baking soda and scrub and scrub with lots of paper towels. Then I start cleaning off the baking soda with lots and lots more paper towels. There is still a film, but at least it's not greasy. At this point I grab some more dry paper towels, pour on a 3' puddle of rubbing alcohol and wipe it all over the stove top and front. You may have to do this twice. Then, if I don't turn on the hood light's brightest setting, it really doesn't look too bad. I have to do this at least once a week, as I have never had a stove that got so dirty so fast and was such a pain to clean.
FYI, I would never buy another of these stoves. Besides the cleaning issue, there is the fact of having to replace the igniter (glow plug?) twice in the first four years. My old, bottom-of-the line Magic Chef went 25 years with the first replacement not coming until it was about 15 years old. Also, the broiler is unimpressive and steaks, etc., just sort of steam. Can't get a really good crust going. It's a slide-in and the top is very narrow, front to back, because of the slanted control panel on the front, and so you really can't put two large pots or pans on one side. Let's see....oh yes, I ordered the unglazed grates for safety reasons and it came with the procelain glaze. Those were replaced free of charge, though I had to go pick them up. Then the first set of unglazed grates began to rust about six months into use, so had to be replaced (again, no charge at least). Recently I noticed that the inside walls of the oven, where the racks slide, are starting to rust. Finally, the burners are difficult to calibrate, which I really notice when I try to cook rice, which comes out right about 50% of the time.
Now, on top of all this, I have to worry about the glass door exploding?!?! Should I ban my grandchildren from the kitchen? Has anyone from Consumer Reports seen this website?
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
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Posted on Oct 04, 2008
SOURCE: JGBP33 BAKE IGNITOR
You did not post a complete model number, but this should help:
Take racks out of oven. Remove two screws at the very back of the oven bottom. Lift back side of bottom up and back a bit to remove oven floor. Remove flame spreader (one nut at center). ignitor is at the back left of burner, most likely a WB2X9154 (round style) ignitor. The entire burner can be removed rather easily at this point if you remove the two screws at the front and disconnect the ignitor wire (if you wish to have easier access to ignitor mounting screws.)
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
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