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Rheem Criterion blower fan will not go off unless unit is unpluged

Unit neither heats nor cools and the blower motor won't stop running unless power is unplugged.

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  • gpaw1 Nov 03, 2012

    Reseting the limit switchs located near the heat tubes will solve this problem.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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muttandjeff
  • 359 Answers

SOURCE: Blower in Attic not running

inside unit has fan control relay , either on control board or can be separate ,except for the 24 volt transformer and the t-stat the units operate separately concentrate totally on the inside unit this is where the problem lies

Posted on Nov 08, 2008

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wb7tls
  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: have a coleman 5640 heating/cooling

Yes, to change from heat to cool is done by reversing the power plug that is close to the housing. Matching the blue on the plug(as I recall) makes it cool. The red to blue makes it a heater. If it is currently heating, the unit works fine, it just needs the polarity reversed.
Good luck,
Glenn

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: Rheem Criterion II air conditioner runs but it does not cool

Check air temp out vent should be approx 20 degrees colder than room temp if it is your unit is too small for the amount of space you are cooling.Rule of thumb 1 ton(12,000btu's) for every 400 sq ft of uninsulated space

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

james3751
  • 614 Answers

SOURCE: My Rheem central A/C blower motor cycles on & off

Depending on age of Rheem they have a time delay relay. May be causing the problem. The time delay operates the fan. Try turning fan to continuous and see if it stays on.

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

daddyo742001
  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: Amana Cooling Condensing Unit fan stops spinning after 15 mins

Capacitor, dirty condencer coil causing the motor amps to run too high. But most likely worn bearing on blade side of motor causing it to pull to one side causing it to over heat and shut down. Sleve bearings should have no side play.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Are there 2 motor in Rheem criterion II furnace? there's chirping sound upper. and a constant humming sound lower in the furnace


Yes. There are two motors. There is a small motor on the inducer assembly that vents the exhaust and there is a larger motor that runs the blower

Jan 01, 2018 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My Rheem Criterion II gas furnace makes metal slapping noise when the blower comes on. It is not the blower or the motor.


Is there noise when the inducer motor comes on? The small motor that comes on first. It sucks the co out of the combustion chamber. It comes on first. Then the burner lights then the blower comes on. And the noise continues while it's running and doesn't stop till the blower stops? Is that correct? But it's not the blower wheel? Could it be out of balance and hitting the blower shroud?

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_868a5ee3bf9eea64

Feb 18, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Replaced Thermostat and now Blower Motor will not run


Sounds like a set up issue on the tstat. You say this is a packaged unit, inside the machine you should find where the tstat wires hook up. Typically red is power yellow is compressor orange is reversing valve white is emergency heat green is blower. Put red and green together, test blower. Then red green and yellow, make sure blower works again. If blower runs both ways it's either the tstat wire or tstat itself. Make sure you are landing wires on dedicated heat pump terminals, make sure in settings you are set up for heat pump with back up electric heat and TSTAT CONTROLS THE FAN. Good Luck. Also if there is a switch on the tstat for gas or electric on the back you want electric.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

May 12, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I have had rheem furnace blower motor or blower making a lot of noise on start up then blower kind of grinds to a stop on shut down. I 've removed the blower and motor assembly which has the board at


Let's see which comes first, the unit failing or you being able to fix it.
I would have thought you might have bad bearings on the fan shaft, but after having this problem myself, I discovered it could be a couple other items.
One is a metal or plastic part that is rubbing some other part, just because of mis-alignment.
Another is dirt or debris having gotten inside, causing this, or even a the nest of some critter. ( like a wasp or spider).
God bless your efforts to save yourself a service call!

Sep 25, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Rheem condenser fan don't spin up under it'sown power.


If you have a multimeter that tests "uf" or "mfd" that is microfarads. That will test the capacitor. Turn off power to unit, touch top of cap with insulated screwdriver across terminals to discharge and remove fan and common. MARK WHICH WIRES GO WHERE. Or if no mfds on multimeter, amps×2650÷volts=mfd. Amp draw on fan wire off of cap times 2650 divided by the volts between common and fan on the cap. If cap is good it's likely the motor.

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Apr 12, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Carrier oil furnace model 58BMA155-20(FORCED HOT AIR)i had changed the blower motor & honeywell st9103a128 fan control board.now the blower motor won't shut off until the breaker is turned off.i...


You need to check the wiring to the limits and safety devices with are in a number of locations, make sure all connections are tight.The most common cause for the blower to run is the high limit device which is the one mounted above the burners on the flat metal panel with two wires.

Nov 03, 2011 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

1 Answer

When the unit is turned on. I can hear the AC pump kick on and run. But the blower fan motor will not turn on at any fan speed. No setting on the AC will get the blower fan to turn on?


Sounds like then fan has died or the run capacitor has die. All motors that run on single phase mains need a capacitor to start them spinning. These are quite cheap & simple to replace usually - worth just replacing if you feel you can't test it. Looks a bit like a 'D' cell battery with 2 leads hanging out. Could also be that the unit is not cooling/heating and the temp sensor will not activate fan until heating/cooling coolant has passed room temp. - Rick

Jun 12, 2011 | LG Electronic Window Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Rheem gas furnace blower unit not working properly


look at circuit board and follow wires that come from fan motor, if this is a standard motor black is high and it will be going to a prong that says cool, red is low and it will go to heat, you will have a yellow and a blue that are "parked" remove red park it were the blue is and put blue on heat, if this is a variable speed motor you will have to set dip switches via your equipment manual

Sep 29, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

A/c/heater blower will not work


Does the motor get voltage when it is supposed to be running. You need to take a volt meter and see if it is getting voltage. If it is getting voltage than it could be a bad motor. Also, if it is getting voltage check the capacitor and see if it test to what it is rated to be. You will need a capacitor tester to do this. And if it is not getting voltage to the motor when a call for cooling or heating then it is a fan control board or relay. Depends on what controls you have. Hope this helps.

Aug 20, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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vulcan bonaire comfort control External natural gas electronic ignition 2004. ISSUE: Fan blowing only cool air continuously. Forced to kill power to stop it. model is one of the following. MB514E,20E or 30E. Going by mech drawing parts list. i can confirm what type of sensors i have cleaned with very fine sandpaper. flame sensor PN 5441603SP and IGNITER ELECTRODE PN 5441602SP The fault code i see is described as the following. There are x4 LED's. Sequence Left to Right. LEGEND: 1 Flame Sensor 2 Pressure switch 3 OverTemp 4 Diag. R Red G Green S Solid Colour B Blinking LED Behaviour. In order 2RS & 4GS Until i hear ignition. 2RS & 3RB Duration: split second 2RB,3RS & 4GB Duration: split second 3RS & 4GB Duration: Until it has completed blinking x4 times. 3RS Duration 4 seconds Repeat last two mentioned behaviour. in my own opinion, as a safety feature, the unit thinks that it has overheated or is about to. so kills the gas and force feeding cool air to heating components to save it from frying. Does this mean i have fault 04 if so does this mean i may have a faulty igniter or flame sensor or maybe a faulty as described in the mech drawing SWITCH OVER TEMPERATURE 120 degrees celsius. Am i correct here? Is this the over temperature cut out switch? if no one can really pinpoint which part requires replacement, can you at least, in sequence advise which parts to purchase? so then ill just try my luck. i wonder how to properly test if flame sensor, igniter, over temp etc is faulty with a multimeter. do i just perform a continuity test. I wonder what other parts can i test related to this fault im getting.

Jul 22, 2018 | Vulcan Heating & Cooling

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