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My thermo control 2 unit keeps reading error and will not let me reprogramme it

When i first plug it in it lets me set the temperature and starts the light but within a second it switches off the light and reads EEE across the display. i have it in my bearded dragons vivarium

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1257 Answers

SOURCE: E1 error code

highly annoying issue error code E1. After hours
of fan operation, the error code E1 will appear on the seven segment
LED temperature display. This error code is intended as a reminder for
the user to clean the air filter. However, because the procedure
outlined in the user manual does not clear this error code as
indicated, and the appliance has a nonvolatile memory that cannot be
reset by simply unplugging it, the user of the appliance will become
mightily frustrated, standing in potentially sweltering heat watching
the appliance repeatedly shut down in the midst of operation with the
"E1" display flashing.

Believe it or not, that is what it does: if you unplug it to remove the
"E1" code from the display, and plug it back in and re-start it, it
will simply run for anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours, and
then merrily shut down again with the same flashing "E1" code.

So you will come home to a hot bedroom, living room, etc. unexpectedly,
and you will NOT be amused, as I was not.

Many people at this point, having put the manual under the canary or
some such, will simply return the unit and never buy another Sharp air
conditioner. But for the tech-savvy and search-adept, I offer the
following procedure to clear the nefarious E1 indication, and obtain

1. Power down the air conditioner using the "power" button on the front
panel.
2. Unplug the air conditioner from the wall socket.
3. Hold the front panel "power" button down and plug the air
conditioner in. Continue to hold the power button down as the machine
goes through a brief test sequence (fan & compressor each come on
briefly, etc). There is a "beep" sound at the end of the test sequence,
and the machine will be off. At this point, you can release the power
button.
4. Unplug the air conditioner.
5. Plug the air conditioner back in.
6. Congratulations! You should now be able to operate the air
conditioner normally for another 720 hours, but only if you followed
the instructions above EXACTLY.
_____________________________________________________
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Thanks for using fixya support..You have a wonderful day

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9098 Answers

SOURCE: My display reads -SE-

-SE- error means you have a shorted keypad.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you would like to have us do this for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

hemantraj
  • 638 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint RGB747GER oven does not heat properly

www.repairclinic.com

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: temperature control

sounds like a bad bake ignitor(uneven heat,long cook times, long preheat times, perhaps even gas smell while cooking)

Posted on Oct 07, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: boot error! please format unit

All I want is my mp3 player to start working. All it keeps saying is Boot error! Please format unit?
The only time it goes on is when i plug it into the computer then when i take it out it says Boot error!
Please format unit.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

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1 Answer

Oven elements will not shut off at set temperature.error code F10 appears


If you already tried disconnecting power to the oven for 20-30 minutes- and upon reconnecting it, get the same error code; then...

Either the electronic oven control board has gone bad or the oven temperature sensor has gone bad. There is also the possibility that the wires from the control board to the sensor has malfunctioned.

To start the troubleshooting process:
1.) Disconnect power to the oven
a.) Either by unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet OR
b.) Turning off the breaker (or removing the fuse) at the service panel
2.) Test the temperature sensor's resistance with an Ohm meter.
a.) This part is usually located on the back wall in the upper part of the oven cavity but it can be easy tested from the EOC.
b.) Locate the two pins in the plug at the EOC that are connected to the sensor. Measure the resistance between the wires connected to these pins. The normal reading at the room temperature is supposed to be about 1100 Ohms.
c.) If the reading is incorrect, remove the sensor from the oven and check its resistance at the sensor. If the reading at the sensor is the same as reading at the EOC plug, the sensor is defective.
d.) If the reading at the sensor is correct, the wire harness between the sensor and the control board is defective.
3.) If all of the above resistance values are in range, the electronic oven control board would need to be replaced.

Mar 18, 2015 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Canon copier 3380i copier with error code E000-003-0001


thi is the problem:
Error in the low temperature of the fixing unit
Detects the temperature detected by the sub thermistor is abnormally low (below 70 deg C) for 1 sec continuously while adjusting print temperature

and the solution is :
Check on connection of the sub thermistor/thermo switch, Replace the fixing unit, Check on a break in the heater, Replace the cover switch, Replace the main power supply PCB, Replace the DC controller PCB To recover from the error: In service mode COPIER>FUNCTION>CLEAR >ERR

Dec 03, 2013 | Canon Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

I have the carrier infiniti system. When my thermostat reaches the set temperature it doesn't always shut off. I shut off the main control to let it reset. It works for a while and then it starts


Carrier Infinity system is a variable speed unit that will just slow down as it approaches set point. Unless it overshoots the set temperature (you have it set on 72 and the temperature keeps rising above 72) this just sounds like normal operation.

Nov 13, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Main remote control is not working can you bypass the remote temporarily


No. However you may be able reset the thermostat to its factory setting.
Turn the thermostat off.
Shut of the gas and water supply to the unit.
Unplug or disconnect the unit from its electrical power source. Disconnect the thermostat from the heater.
Wait approximately 5 to minutes, and then reattach the thermostat wires to the heater.
Turn the water supply on and open the tub faucet to its hottest setting for about a minute.
Turn the faucet off and make sure no water water is flowing anywhere in the house.
Turn the gas supply back on.
Reconnect the thermostat wires to the heater.
Connect or turn the power supply back on.
Wait at least 2 minutes before turning the thermostat power button back on.
After the thermostat power button has be pressed, wait an additional 2 minutes before running water.
Test the heater at this time. Turn the water on at the farthest faucet to its hottest setting. measure the temperature with a cooking thermometer.
If you need to make adjustments to the water temperature, either up down, shut all the faucets off first.
The thermostat should read 100 degrees Fahrenheit when it first starts.
If you are receiving an error massage, consult with the manufacturer.
If the thermostat is reading the correct water temperature but the unit is not operating, there are other issue need to deal with. Let us know if this works or you need further assistance.


Sep 26, 2010 | Rheem Tankless Water Heater Main Remote...

1 Answer

We keep getting an f24 error. It won't spin out


This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.

"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.

To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.****

May 31, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Can't start a cycle show f42 or f24


This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.

"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.

To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.^%$#

Mar 11, 2010 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Washing machine blinking f-24 error code.only finished the wash cycle didn't drain . please help


"F24" is a Water Temperature Sensor error or Heating Circuit failure. The first step to troubleshooting these washers is to unplug the unit for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes the error codes can be erroneous and a simple reset of the CCU will correct the problem. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, you have a genuine problem.

If the error code comes back, check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Check to make sure the connector is still plugged in. The connector can become loose or unplugged due to vibration. If the connector appears to be okay, unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
I hope you find this information helpful. If you have further questions, please let me know.

Apr 11, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet 3.8 cu. ft. Front Load...

1 Answer

My unit is cycling on and off every 2 minutes or so.


This can be due to a faulty thermo sensor or if the unit is fitted with a pressure safety switch, it could be short of refrigerant.

Mar 09, 2009 | Carrier 38BRC036 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Message panel keeps flashing F10 error


Code F-10 indicates a temperature runaway. There are two possible problems. 1) The oven temp sensor has failed. This can be checked using a standard multimeter. The sensor is located behind the rear access panel of your oven. The sensor should read about 1100 ohms at room temperature. 2) The oven control board needs to be replaced. There are no FRU's (field replaceable units) on the control board. Check the sensor first. Even a new control board is cheaper than a new oven.

Deepwater

Apr 19, 2007 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

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