Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
Check the breakers and make sure you are getting 220v to the dryer. That is all that is left to check. One of the breakers must be thrown.
Posted on Nov 03, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Based on the information that you provided, if you open the door in mid-cycle and the motor shuts off, but the element stays on, this will stop the air flow through the dryer and the element. The element temperature will rise drastically because it is not being cooled. Subsequently, to prevent a fire, the thermal fuse will open, shutting the element, and in some cases the motor, down.
A heating element gets its power from the timer, through the cycling thermostat(s),and to 1 side of the element.
When the motor starts, power is passed through the centrifugal switch in the motor, through the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal fuse to the other side of the element.
There is no ground wiring involved in the heat side of the dryer.
1. An element can stay on because it has broken and fell against the metal tube where it picks up a ground. Solution is to replace the element.
2. The centrifugal switch mounted on or in the motor can fail to open when the motor stops and allow current to flow through it
until the points in the timer open up, breaking the circuit.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
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Posted on Jun 23, 2008
SOURCE: whirlpool leb6000pq1 not heating
Thermostat controls heat. There is also a
motor centrifulgal switch, in the element
circuit, that the motor closes to insure
the motor is turning. Try another heat
setting. There is more than one
thermostat. You may have blown the
'thermal fuse' too, which requires
replacement. The elecment has a contact in
the 'timer' circuit too.
It is possible that your element has
Tripped high limit. Must clean the lint
filter and the exhaust vent tube and all
the way in to the dryer. Hot air exit is
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
not being sarcastic, but, your sure you have 240 volts present at the unit? then check door switch heat section control of switch may be bad
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
I know this might sound stupid but try this. Find your fuse box, locate the breaker that runs your dryer. Flip it off and then back on. If i'm correct, it will work. Everything on your dryer works off of one leg of the 220v. The other leg goes to the other side of the element. If you have a meter. check for 220v at the plug. Everything you listed is what makes the dryer heat other than the thermostats. Check the cycling thermostats like you did the other pieces. They look like the thermal cut off. They have two wires and they are round.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
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