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Instruction book for the 434_434D New Home Serger

Problem with the timing- threading the motor runs blades cut but no stitches

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  • Sewing Machines Master
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Here is a link for parts and a manual for the machine

http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/janome-434D-sewing-machine-parts.aspx

Posted on Nov 02, 2012

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  • Sewing Machines Master
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A manual could help you. You may get it from http://www.manualsonline.com/ ,http://www.makeuseof.com/dir/manualsonline-free-downloadable-manuals/

Posted on Nov 02, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: New Home sewing machine instruction manual 2039 (Jenome)

I will quit being lazy and find my manuel today...... i thought I could save time and look online. No such luck. If you have an email address I will send of fax or mail to you. I feel bad for everyone looking for it. So I will check in a few days to see if you still need it.
Lisa

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

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SOURCE: Need replacement cutting blades on my simplicity serger easy lock 804

Allbrand.com or go to Google, type in: "Replacement blades for a serger". Hope this will help. I have the same serger. --Tricie

Posted on Mar 29, 2008

Mimito7
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SOURCE: Missing Manual for Singer 14U134 Serger

try this;;;
www.2instructions.com

Posted on May 29, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Brother 1034D serger is not cutting and is binding up

This problem is usually when the lower blade drops below the sewing plate. Look at the blade in relation to the plate and see if it has dropped below the plate, then you can reset the blade. If it is not the upper blade may be too dull to cut so it will need to be replaced.

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: manual for A New Home MyLock 434 D serger

I scanned my manual and it can be downloaded for free here.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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I am having trouble with loose stitches and my fabric is not being cut by the blade. I have t Cleaned my machine , rethreaded me serger a few times , I have adjusted the tension , I am traveling and I do...


try changing the needles
check the blade to see if it's loose or misaligned or dirty
try wiping the blades,, try using silicon spray or alcohol on them
to clean them.
after you check the blade to see if there loose or not,,
lay a single thread across the lower cutter blade and handwalk the needle through a stitch cycle watching that thread across the knife blade. If the thread cuts clean the blades are sharp. If it moves
forward on the blade, the softer blade is probably dull enough that it needs replacing

Nov 08, 2012 | Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 910

2 Answers

I need a manual for a Simplicity Easy Lock Serger SL4300. I got it from a friend and she didn't have the manual. The loops are over the top of the material sticking out to far and I do not know how...


You can purchase a manual for this machine from the following link for $US14.99

http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-simplicity-sl4300.aspx

I can't see it anywhere for free download unfortunately. But you may find that looking at a manual for another 4 thread overlocker may get you started. If you try this link http://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals you can look at the free Singer downloads,
try this link for their 654 3/4 thread model http://www.singerco.com/uploads/download/555_14sh644_654-(e_s_f)-(new-led-version).pdf
it may give you some help now.

Essentially, to change the stitch width you can either move the lower fixed blade wider to cut less fabric or tighten up the upper and lower looper threads in order to close up the stitching.

Moving the blade usually means opening up the front cover door, putting pressure on the upper blade and swinging it up out of the way. Then you can adjust the lower blade, usally by turning a knob near to it. Sometimes this knob will be marked 1, 2, 3.

Adjusting the looper tensions is done by changing the tension dial settings for the thread needing adjusting. If its a standard four thread overlocker that produces a "marrow" seam it will have two needles and two loopers, upper and lower. Generally on most overlockers, the upper looper will be the second from right tension dial and lower looper will be right most tension dial - turn up one half number to tighten, or down one half number increment to loosen, then test stitch again. The needles shouldn't need adjusting too often.

I usually start with all tension dials on 5, test stitch, then adjust from there. Some fabrics will tunnel (pull in) if the seam is too wide so you need to either move the blade to the left and trim more fabric or loosen off the loopers. Or in the reverse, like you are getting, the threads will hang off the edge.

There is some good serger information on Debbis Cosgrove's pages www.sewing.about.com but if you have never used a serger, then getting the genuine manual is probably best.

Oct 16, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

Correct settings for 804dsp serger to sew a sweater.


Are you wanting to use the serger to sew a hand knitted sweater together? or do you mean a sweat shirt knit or other knit fabric. If it is the first option, I'd say don't bother, as you can't do it with the blades working because it will cut your knitting and the wool will unravel in the seams.

If it is the second option then I would start with the following settings.

Four thread stitch, so both needles and the upper and lower loopers threaded. Set tension on all four dials to 5, stitch length to between 2 and 3, and differential on zero. Move the cutting blade over to the right for a wider seam. Now test stitch on some fabric scraps double layer and see what the seam is looking like.

Now you want to adjust a couple of things: firstly width of the seam. Is it the size you want? If you'd like it a little narrower, then adjust the cutting blade back a little to the left to narrow the seam slightly - just depends on the fabric weight. For example if it is a loose open weave like boucle you would want a wide seam to make sure it holds the fibres fully.

Now you can adjust the upper and lower loopers to get the thread wrapping around the edge looking nice. Look at the seam and the fabric inside it. Is it tunnelling and pulling up the fabric? if so, release tension on both loopers a half number to put more thread into the seam. Test stitch again and see if the loopers are meeting nicely on the cut edge of the fabric. Upper and lower looper threads should be meeting right on the cut edge so if this isn't happening and one showing on the other side, then tighten the looser one by half a number and test again.

If the threads are hanging off the edge then you have the choice of moving the blade to the right to cut less fabric off, or tightening up the looper tensions to pull in the thread.

That's it, hope this helps you to master your serger.

If you'd like some images and further explanations of other stitching you can do with your overlocker, then Debbie Coswell has some great information on line at www.sewing.about.com, just search "overlocker" to find the specific pages.


Good luck

Oct 11, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

When sewing with the brother serger 1034d, loops of thread stick out beyond the fabric-it is not nice and close like it's supposed to be. the settings from left to right are: 4,4,3,3. this is what my...


Can you wind the lower cutting blade to the right to cut less fabric and therefore fill out the stitching? On most sergers the lower blade position can be adjusted sometimes with a little knob or dial. You need to raise the top blade out of the way first, usually you put pressure onto it to release the spring holding it up against the lower blade, then swing it up to do this. Then wind the adjustment on the lower blade and move it to the right to cut less fabric then test serge. Your manual should give you more specific information on this and should be your first 'go to".

I would adjust my looper tensions to suit the fabric and width of the stitch I'm trying to achieve so yes, the settings you've been given are average tensions but its okay to vary these too. From left to right, I'd set 4, 4, 4, 4 and test serge again and see if this pulls the looper threads in against the fabric if moving the blade hasn't tightened up the stitching.

Sergers are more variable than a straight stitch sewing machine so its okay to move tension knobs a bit, just turn each a half number each time you adjust, then test serge and look at the stitch formation. Your needles tension should be fine at 4, leave them alone.

I'd suggest if you can find one, go to a "Getting to know your serger" type class as there is lots of techniques such as seaming on a curve, turning right angles, both inside and outside and making rolled hem edges that are very helpful serger skills to learn along with making adjustments and troubleshooting. Or go to you-tube and search some of these techniques for videos. Also www.sewing.about.com is a great sewing resource and Debbie has pages on sergers/overlockers here too.

When I'm starting a new dressmaking project I will spend 10 mins on the overlocker/serger, changing the thread colour to suit the garment, then test serging and adjusting the stitch tensions to suit the fabric. I have 4 cones of thread each in white, black, beige, grey, pink and pale blue and these threads will give a suitable finish on most fabric colours and prints. Then there is wooly overlocker thread, this is a fluffy thread that you can use for rolled hems as the thread relaxes once stitched and "fills" out the closely stitched edge covering the rolled fabric edge and is another whole area of fun to try out.

Often I'll just use a three thread to neaten the raw edges of a seam I will press open. Or I will assemble a whole knit garment using the four thread stitch, so much faster then stitching seams, then neatening. Jersey knits and sergers are made for each other.

As an aside the D on your machine model would denote "differential feed" too - briefly differential feed is adjusting the amount that the two feed dogs move under the foot and means you can "hold back" the fabric as it is stitched (0.5), or "stretch" it out (1.5 or 2 setting). Really handy for loose weave fabrics that stretch as you serge them, you can compensate using the differential feed setting. And in reverse, you can create a "lettuce" or wavy edge by turning the differential feed up.

I hope that this helps you out with your Brother 1034D and hasn't just confused you. Good luck.

Aug 01, 2011 | Brother 1034D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

I have a new Viking Huskylock S25 and the serger tensions are off and I cannot get them adjusted.


How do you mean the tension are off? A serger should have 3 or 4 tension knobs (although yours looks like it is push button digital settings) and generally from new these will produce a standard stitch when all are set to 5. Are you sure that you've got the thread pulled into the tension discs fully? Check each one by pulling on the thread below the tension disc and feel for resistance, if the thread pulls very easily, then recheck and thread again.

Have you got the thread aerial raised up to the full height? Remember also to put the plastic cone holders under the thread cones as you want the cone to stay still and the thread to feed off it - it does this very fast, sergers sew at 1500 stitches per minute so the thread streams off the cones very quickly.

Using a serger is quite different to a sewing machine and your model looks like its one of the later computerised ones with multiple stitch options including coverstitch. I'd suggest that you go back to your dealer and ask to spend time with them for a demo, thread up in front of them for pointers or take a class to familiarise yourself fully with the machine. Then go home again, break out the manual, and go through threading up from scratch several times until you've got it off pat. Remember to thread top looper, bottom looper, left needle, right needle in this sequence always, then pull all threads under the foot, lower pressure foot and serge off a short chain. To change colour thread, you can always cut and knot on new threads, turn tension down and pull through the loopers, but you've got to thread the needles fresh each time you change colour.

There is some good videos on You-tube, Nancy Zieman has a several and she's also written several books on using a serger and obviously the manual is first point of reference.

Each fabric will behave differently so for each new fabric, you will need to adjust tensions and move the blade to get it stitch and just encasing the cut edge at a suitable width. To work out how it should look, break out some ready to wear garments and have a look at those seams, then test and practice with your machine to get a similar stitch. Always test serge two thickenesses if you are going to use it to construct your garments and pull open from the right side to ensure the needle thread is tight enough so the seams don't pull open under wear.

Good idea to keep your test seam samples in a notebook and write down the settings you used for reference next time. I have to say, I've done flatlock with silky decorative thread once in 19 years - but I do know how to set up the machine for this. However, rolled hem with wooly thread is very useful and I often use this to edge hems. I'm envious of your coverstitch option, this is great for hemming and necklines and is something early sergers didnt do.

Just checked out this model on an Ebay vendor's site and it mentions a training DVD, you've got several different stitch types to master with this machine so there will be some learning and practice involved to get it right. Good luck - I hope this is of some help but I'd be visiting the dealer for specific help if you can.

Apr 29, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I need to switch to rolled hemming and can't find my manual


Is this on a serger?

Rolled hemming on a serger is usually achieved by doing the following: thread up for three thread overlock using right hand needle. Move blade to the right to trim fabric wider (so it rolls inside the seam). Put woolly overlock thread through top looper (this gives a smooth finish to the rolled hem). Loosen off top looper and tighten up bottom looper so the bottom looper is up tight against the needle thread on the underside. Test serge to get the stitch right, then turn the stitch length down to 0.5 to close it up tight (this uses loads of thread so I usually get everything else right first, then make this final adjustment). On my Bernette 334D tensions are R-Needle - 5, Top looper 7-8 and bottom looper is 3-4. Stitch length 0.5, differential zero.

And usually you flick a small lever or change a little finger on the foot or plate where the stitch forms, there is some variation here between models. Early Elna L4 and L5 locks you had a little finger you changed with a screwdriver on the pressure foot. Bernette has a little slide mechanicism near the blade that you flick forward to engage.

Hope this is of assistance to you - I went for a 2 hour lesson on my serger when I bought it and then came home and repeated all the techniques shown and then made notes and stapled all the stitch samples into a notebook so I could remember how I did it.

Also there are some great books on Serging, Nancy Zieman is one name that springs to mind. Or try You-Tube, she has some videos up there too showing different techniques.


Apr 27, 2011 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Hi i just got a new brother 1034D serger. And I'm


I found that I had to remove the stitch finger to thread the machine properly. Do remember to re-install it before starting to sew. If you are using 3-threads only, then remove and store the stitch finger.
Puzzled that this instruction is not in the threading section of the manual.

Jun 23, 2010 | Brother Lay-In Thread Serger Mechanical...

1 Answer

Hello I just got a new home My Lock 334D machine. It has Seized intermittenly. could we troubleshoot the problem & fix it together?


Un-thread and then see if the machine will run without thread.

If not, it needs to go into the shop for repair.

If it does, refer to the manual. Or, the guide that should be printed on the inside of the serger's door.

Raise the thread antenna to it's highest position. Keep it at this position when serging. If lowered for storage, and threaded, be sure the thread does not tangle around the antenna arms.

Raise the presser foot.

Open/set the tensions to zero.

Raise the loopers to their highest level - there may be an indicator mark on the side of the serger to match with a mark on the handwheel to help with this.

Start threading from the right to the left; upper looper first.

After threading, reset the tensions to a medium number, lower the presser foot and stitch a chain to test the stitching.

Serge a scrap and adjust the tension as necessary.

Once you get the serger working as it should - don't run out of thread. Tie off, open the tension, raise presser foot and gently guide the new thread through the threading process.

When changing the thread or removing the thread to store the serger, cut the thread at the antenna, leaving thread tails for tying off the new thread.

If you do not have Nancy Zieman's "Serge with Confidence", you will find it much more informative than the average serger manual.

May 01, 2010 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

My serger machine does not do the stiches and I replaced the needles already and I know that I thread the machine correctly, please help me! thanks


Sometimes we think we have the machine threaded correctly, but the stitches just won't knit - I threatened my old serger many times only to find the lower looper thread had popped out.

Open the doors and watch what is happening when you turn the hand wheel.

Make sure the thread antenna is fully extended and thead the machine with the tension open (zero) and in the order shown in the manual.

Once you get this great, but sometimes naughty little machine stitching as it should, do not let it run out of thread.

Cut the thread near the cones and tie off to the new thread.

Open the tensions and slowly run the machine until the new thread appears - you will have to stop as the knot gets to the needles and thread manually.

Mar 01, 2010 | White Sewing Speedylock 1600 Mechanical...

2 Answers

Cutters on Elna 744 serger won't cut


is there lint or thread caught between blades preventing them from meeting?

scott

Jul 26, 2009 | Brother 929D Mechanical Sewing Machine

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