M-Audio ProjectMix I/O motorised fader not working
One of the motorised faders on the M-Audio ProjectMix I/O has stopped working. If I take the rear cover off I can swap the connector for this faulty fader with another fader's connector and now the original fader is working but the new fader is not working. So, it's certainly not a motor issue. What could be the problem here? I'm suspecting a component or two has blown but how do I find out which?
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A common problem is a person will plug in an unbalanced plug into an input. this often grounds out the 48 volts. Use ONLY balanced lines like XLR and TRS connections. There is NOT likely a fuse inside as the 48 volts have fairly high impedance driving the mic leads... around 6K ohms. Verify that the 48 volt control setting has not been turned off.
There are cables that bridge the sets of channels together. You MAY have a bad connection of one of these. The strips of channels I believe are in banks of 8 in the Mackie's. The cables should be accessable with removing the back of the unit.
If you have had a spill of liquid into the faders, then you know what the problem is and requires extensive work to replace faders. You could try putting a bit of CRC226 into the middle of the fader slots if the faders are noisy. You can get the CRC226 at the Home Depot in the electrical dept. Use ONLY this exact product.
You CAN'T send ANYTHING to microphones since they are INPUT devices.
If you want apply effects to the audio coming FROM them then this is what you do:
Adjust the trim and faders for normal use and verify the mics are working.
NOW for those mics you want to put effects on, turn the knob labled "FX" above EACH mic FADER that you want effects on... it will be the orange topped ones... about the fourth one up ablve the PAN and the two MON knobs. Adjust these to send each mic into the effects mixing buss. Start by setting them at 12 o'clock. You will use these to proportion the amount of effects applied to individual mics.
Next, advance the FX fader/slider to around the Unity mark... this controls the amount of the FX mix buss goes into the FX processor.
Next adjust the knob above the MAIN fader that says FX to Main. This controls the amount of the FX that is sent into the MAIN mix buss...
We are almost there... Select the effect you want with the effect knob to the number of the effect you want... it will be blinking AFTER a change... the effect will NOT have changed yet... WHEN you want the effect to take effect, PRESS DOWN on the effect knob and the effect number will stop blinking and you now have the effects on those mics... ADJUST the three level things... the knbs under each channel to proportion between the mics... adjust the FX fader for the USUAL control of effect amount... and finally the FX to main knb to set the limit of the effect going to the MAINS.
Changing faders USUALLY involves removing all panel hardware so that circuit board can be removed to get at the fader. It is often a LOT of work with a boit of hazards along the way.
If the control is noisy I want you to try something before replacing the fader. Get a can of CRC226 available at Home Depot in the Electrical department... about $2.70 for a can. Using the included plastic spout tube, squirt a bit into the center of the control where the knob is. Work it back and forth and then put a little more in and test if it is better or fixed.
NEVER use DeOxit or Blue Shower in faders!!!!! It removes the lube that is required in the fader.
You probably wrecked the faders putting De-Oit in them!!! NEVER use that in pot and faders... It is for switch contacts only.
You have ONE chance to save them. From Home Depot get a can of CRC226 in the electrical dept. Put some of that using the spout into each fader near the middle and work the faders. The CRC226 costs about $2.70 a can. Make sure it is the 226 as there are OTHER CRC products there and only 226 is the one that is suitable.
The De-Oxit will have cleaned out the lube of the faders and if you are unlucky, one or more of the wipers will have folded back which is fatal... The CRC226 is an electrical lube that I have restored faders and pots with... It has many other uses including lubing plier joints...
You may have destroyed the faders. If excessive force is applied to put the knob on, then the resistance element may be cracked. ALWAYS only put the button on at one end of the throw of the fader. The channelfaders appear to be 10K, probably audio taper. Most are made by ALPS. You can probably get replacement from either DigiKey.com or Mouser.com. Often the tab for the knob is too long and has to be cut off and de-burred. Removing the faders from the board REALLY requires a soldering station/de-soldering station as it is easy to damage the circuit board. Do NOT use solderwick as you would need too much heat to remove solder from the back side... you need a solder ****** type. Mesure the throw of the slider as a first step to find replacement. Next, match the hole pattern, and then next the resistance value and finally the taper, in this case, audio.
Pay attention to the type of tab for the knob...
It is a lot of work removing all the knobs, all the nuts on the 1/4 inch jacks, and screws, including those for the XLR jacks.
The fader is likely a dual pot. The manufacturer is likely ALPS. You need to match the board hole layout, slider throw, resistance, AND TAPER.
There will be a number on the side of the pot that will have the resistance and taper... It is likely an "A" taper which is an audio log taper.
Replacing this involves removing about the right 1/3 of knobs, screws, and jack mounting nuts and washers to remover the circuit board the pot is mounted on.
There are connecting cables to be removed.
Try to find part at DigiKey.com or Mouser.com. Note that the handle MAY be too long. Shorten the handle with tin snios and remove the burr.
BEFORE any of this is done, you should investigate to make sure it is the fader. If the left channel is intermitent scratchy then the fader is likely bad, These will get scratchy before they fail... If that is not the scenario, then there probably is something else bad.
Since the board is similar to the eurodesk model, on that one DO NOT plug mono 1/4 inch plugs into the mains output 1/4inch jacks as those are TRUE TRS balanced lines.
If all other functions work for those channels, the most likely problem is the fader itself. These can fail and operate more like switches rather than faders. Without witnessing the behavior, I can not state that for sure. While these mixers are not the hardest to work on, they are time consuming. The faders can be purchased from Mackie directly. If you need to have this repaired, any shop that repairs audio gear should be able to erpair this for you. Where are you located?