Question about Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
open the bottom drawer and get the model number off the serial plate on the left hand side i think its a slide in with the controls on front
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
Generic problem for all Kitchen Ranges
Frigidaire electric range fef326ab bought
Posted by keepcooking on May 05, 2008
Frigidaire electric range fef326ab bought in Oct 2005
heating element sparked while baking and now there is a hole in element, what could have caused this and could it be fixed, or will i have to buy new range?
I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR APPLIANCE before beginning any service procedure.
To the best of my knowledge you can replace the heating element with a genuine part from Frigidaire, this happened to me on my water heater and the element just got old and too hot and it just popped and left one to three holes in the element and I just replaced it. I would have it done by an appliance specialist or your local appliance repair person. When ordering the part remember to give the Brand name, Model # and they might ask for the Serial #. So if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local appliance dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions.
Customer Contact Center - USA
1-(800) 374-4432 Monday thru Friday 9:00 am to 5:30 pm EST
Canada 1-(800) 265-8352 Monday thru Friday 9:00 am to 5:30 pm EST
Extended Service Agreements 1-(866) 386-5286 Monday thru Friday
8:00 am to 6:00 pm EST
Order Genuine Frigidaire Parts 1-(800) 599-7569
8:30 am to 5:30 pm EST
Electrolux Home products
P.O. Box 212378
Martinez, GA 309
Thanks, Don – The Appliance Man
Go Ahead. Use Us.
Posted on May 05, 2008
Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though
Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Posted on May 23, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
If your electric oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..
Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
Posted on May 14, 2010
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