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I just cleaned out the over flow tube for the water and my a/c worked for cold straight after but now i switch it on and the air is only room temp for both cold and hot, everthing else appears to be working fine, there is also no longer any condensation on the pipes anymore? the model is the fugitsu AST24RGB-W and the outside motor is AOT24RNBL. Pease Help.
The problem is the main capacitor in the outside unit. Its a common problem with Fujitsu's , get it replaced and everything works fine. Thats what fixed mine with the same symptoms.
Is the inside unit in a closet or the attic. if in the attic there may be a float switch in the drain pan and you might have hit it causing the outside unit not to come on
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I would check the wall penetr*tion and be sure its foamed in. Next clean the coil with a mild soap and water mix. Clean the filter and see what happens. If still moisture, turn the fan speed up and see what happens. It's either too cold or too humid in my opinion.
Make sure there is no air trapped in the heater core. With the radiator cap removed run the vehicle at idle until it reaches full operating temp while keeping an eye on the coolant level in the radiator and topping off as necessary. When the thermostat opens rev the engine a couple times. Short snaps work the best. Do this from the drivers seat while the heat is set to full hot, the mode is set to vent, and the blower speed is set to low or the next setting higher than low. If you feel short bursts of hot air there is restricted flow or air in the heater core. Continuing trying the short burst for about 5 minutes (a couple short bursts and than wait and then a couple more). If it doesn't stay hot its restricted.
I think the blend doors and mode doors are vacuum operated on that one. Make sure you can hear a noticeable difference in the sound of the air as you switch from full cold to full hot. If you don't than the blend door, blend door actuator, or the heat selector switch could be bad.
If you do hear a noticeable difference than I would suspect a plugged heater core. Especially if the first part above did not work and the coolant is muddy or nasty looking. You can try back flushing the heater core by removing the heater hoses from the heater core. Then using a garden hose spray water into one side of the heater core tube until clear water comes out. Then do the some thing on the other heater core tube. This may take several tries but you should start to notice an increase in heat. top off with straight coolant (not mixed 50/50 with water) to compensate for the water in the heater core.
The radiator sheds heat at a specific rate. Increasing air flow increases that rate a bit, but even with increased air flow, there is a specific rate.
When you start out, there is a "cold reservoir" in the radiator — without shedding any heat at all, for a while the cold water in the radiator will keep the engine cool.
If the heat from the engine exceeds the heat the radiator can shed, as soon as the radiator water hits the temperature of the engine, you will have overheating.
If you have a head gasket leak, you are injecting heat directly into the water, heat that ought to go out the tailpipe.
If some of the tubes in the core of the radiator are not flowing, the ability of the radiator to shed heat will be diminished.
I am thinking it is either a head gasket leak/cracked combustion chamber, or a radiator that does not flow water through all the tubes.
A lean fuel mixture will generate a lot more heat than one that is richer. The coloration of the spark plug insulators can be helpful in assessing the mixture.
NO NO NO, to replacing the air filter system. There is a lot miss leading information as to the "Cold air intake systems" We have tested and shown our clients that not very many work, and most are all "HYPE"! We have used temp reading equipment and monitored the temp from the air cleaner to the intake manifold. We found the stock equip was far cooler (60 DEGREES) than the "cold air systems" THEY WERE USING OR WANTING TO USE. The main reason for this, they where not properly insulating the tube. The cold air tube was absorbing the HOT air from under the hood, and the outside temp flowing through it was not cooling it off, like the factory one does. If done properly, the temp would be much cooler, but there is no aftermarket companys that send the insulation package with the cold air system. We have used insulation from a local heating/air condition company that they use on duct work. This made a significant difference in temp from the outside air to the throttle body, and made it a REAL COLD AIR SYSTEM. Keep the tires properly inflated, get a 4 wheel alignment to insure the tires are rolling straight and true, keep the filters clean, switch to a synthetic oil, wax the exterior of the vehicle for less wind resistance,( ever seen a high speed car dirty?) push on the gas pedal when taking off, and letting the vehicle coast down when coming to stop, using less brakes. Hope this help you
If it fills with water and starts the cycle and
the water keeps running in then your water inlet valve on the back where the
water supply comes in is sticking. It needs replacing. If it overflows and don't start the cycle-
Your pressure switch stops the
water and allows it to start the next cycle. It's a switch either in the
control panel or at the top of the tub with a small tube connected to it which
goes down between the inner and outer tube. As the water level increases the
air in the tube is compressed until there is enough pressure to make the switch
stopping the water from filling. This tube can get clogged and the switch won't
work. Remove the tube and clean it out. Blowing on the tube when it's still
connected to the switch will make the switch if it's working and clear.
The 2400ES in cold climates needs to be a twin piped unit. 3" SS venting with a combination air port made of pvc also 3 feet apart I believe on the same wall and at the same plane. Keep the cover on at all times and this will seal of the heater from the rest of the house and from freezing.
it sounds to me like the dip tube has failed. this is a plastic tube that is inside the water heater on the cold side. It is designed to put the incoming cold water at the bottem of the tank allowing heated water out at the top. when this tube deteriorates the cold water mixes at the top of the tank instead of the bottom. a new dip tube is about 5 bucks but must be inserted on the cold side by someone with plumbing experience.
If the compressor is outputting cold freon maybe the vent in the dash is not opening to allow the air to flow thru the condenser. Try operating the heat/cool switch and the recirculting air control in an effort to get it to open the damper.
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