Question about Fujitsu 24R1 Air Conditioner

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No heat or cold?

I just cleaned out the over flow tube for the water and my a/c worked for cold straight after but now i switch it on and the air is only room temp for both cold and hot, everthing else appears to be working fine, there is also no longer any condensation on the pipes anymore? the model is the fugitsu AST24RGB-W and the outside motor is AOT24RNBL. Pease Help.

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The problem is the main capacitor in the outside unit. Its a common problem with Fujitsu's , get it replaced and everything works fine. Thats what fixed mine with the same symptoms.

Posted on Jun 15, 2011

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Is the inside unit in a closet or the attic. if in the attic there may be a float switch in the drain pan and you might have hit it causing the outside unit not to come on

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Air To Water Heat Pipe Heat Exchanger


General Information
Air to water heat pipe heat exchanger is mainly to heat water using the hot air from heat recovery, it can be used for domestic water, water for boilers or production process. The exchanger is constructed using a partition in the middle to separate the exchanger, both sides are independently sealed. A single heat pipe can be replaced. While working the hot air flows from one side to the other side, the heat pipe absorbs heat. Meanwhile, cold water flows from the reverse side, the heat pipe releases heat, thus heating the cold water from the reverse side. The outlet temperature is not lower than dew temperature.
Field of Application
-feed drying
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Advantage:
-high heat recovery efficiency
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-the speciality of the heat pipe results in a high wall temperature, exhaust gas temperature can be reduced without reaching the acid dew point, avoid the corrosion of the equipment.

Core tube material: stainless steel, carbon steel
Fin material: aluminum, stainless steel
Tube/fin bond: extruded, high-frequency welding
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Order Information
P/N Description: HP-XYZ-N
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on Dec 14, 2016 | Miscellaneous

1 Answer

Can a fuse effect the heat coming out or will it effect the heater from working,i have flow thru the heater core but wont get warm .blower works great .anything else i can check ,also brand new thermostat


Make sure there is no air trapped in the heater core. With the radiator cap removed run the vehicle at idle until it reaches full operating temp while keeping an eye on the coolant level in the radiator and topping off as necessary. When the thermostat opens rev the engine a couple times. Short snaps work the best. Do this from the drivers seat while the heat is set to full hot, the mode is set to vent, and the blower speed is set to low or the next setting higher than low. If you feel short bursts of hot air there is restricted flow or air in the heater core. Continuing trying the short burst for about 5 minutes (a couple short bursts and than wait and then a couple more). If it doesn't stay hot its restricted.

I think the blend doors and mode doors are vacuum operated on that one. Make sure you can hear a noticeable difference in the sound of the air as you switch from full cold to full hot. If you don't than the blend door, blend door actuator, or the heat selector switch could be bad.

If you do hear a noticeable difference than I would suspect a plugged heater core. Especially if the first part above did not work and the coolant is muddy or nasty looking. You can try back flushing the heater core by removing the heater hoses from the heater core. Then using a garden hose spray water into one side of the heater core tube until clear water comes out. Then do the some thing on the other heater core tube. This may take several tries but you should start to notice an increase in heat. top off with straight coolant (not mixed 50/50 with water) to compensate for the water in the heater core.

Nov 17, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet Suburban

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New thermostat fitted radiator cap had tested for blown gasket sees ok. Radiator looks very clean inside. Runs fine for plus munis 40 km [hard driving) and suddenly overheats pushing water into...


The radiator sheds heat at a specific rate. Increasing air flow increases that rate a bit, but even with increased air flow, there is a specific rate.

When you start out, there is a "cold reservoir" in the radiator — without shedding any heat at all, for a while the cold water in the radiator will keep the engine cool.

If the heat from the engine exceeds the heat the radiator can shed, as soon as the radiator water hits the temperature of the engine, you will have overheating.

If you have a head gasket leak, you are injecting heat directly into the water, heat that ought to go out the tailpipe.

If some of the tubes in the core of the radiator are not flowing, the ability of the radiator to shed heat will be diminished.

I am thinking it is either a head gasket leak/cracked combustion chamber, or a radiator that does not flow water through all the tubes.

A lean fuel mixture will generate a lot more heat than one that is richer. The coloration of the spark plug insulators can be helpful in assessing the mixture.

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1 Answer

Is there any advise to improve gas efficient, what about replace air filter hose system


NO NO NO, to replacing the air filter system. There is a lot miss leading information as to the "Cold air intake systems" We have tested and shown our clients that not very many work, and most are all "HYPE"! We have used temp reading equipment and monitored the temp from the air cleaner to the intake manifold. We found the stock equip was far cooler (60 DEGREES) than the "cold air systems" THEY WERE USING OR WANTING TO USE. The main reason for this, they where not properly insulating the tube. The cold air tube was absorbing the HOT air from under the hood, and the outside temp flowing through it was not cooling it off, like the factory one does. If done properly, the temp would be much cooler, but there is no aftermarket companys that send the insulation package with the cold air system. We have used insulation from a local heating/air condition company that they use on duct work. This made a significant difference in temp from the outside air to the throttle body, and made it a REAL COLD AIR SYSTEM. Keep the tires properly inflated, get a 4 wheel alignment to insure the tires are rolling straight and true, keep the filters clean, switch to a synthetic oil, wax the exterior of the vehicle for less wind resistance,( ever seen a high speed car dirty?) push on the gas pedal when taking off, and letting the vehicle coast down when coming to stop, using less brakes. Hope this help you

Jan 18, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Intrepid

2 Answers

When running a cycle the water doesnt shut off causing it to over flow, but the pump is working


If it fills with water and starts the cycle and the water keeps running in then your water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in is sticking. It needs replacing.

If it overflows and don't start the cycle-
Your pressure switch stops the water and allows it to start the next cycle. It's a switch either in the control panel or at the top of the tub with a small tube connected to it which goes down between the inner and outer tube. As the water level increases the air in the tube is compressed until there is enough pressure to make the switch stopping the water from filling. This tube can get clogged and the switch won't work. Remove the tube and clean it out. Blowing on the tube when it's still connected to the switch will make the switch if it's working and clear.

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I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500. The air conditioner blows just warm air. The system was working when engine was shut off but did not work properly upon restart today. The AC/Max A/C switch seems to work...


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1 Answer

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run and see if that solves problem

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