Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Air Conditioner malfunction
Hi, Sounds like you have a short in the control circuit to me. Turn off all power going to the unit. Write down or otherwise mark the wires leaving the control board going to the thermostat. Remove them from the control board. Replace the fuse. Turn power back on and see if the fan still runs. If it does, check and or replace the heat limit switch that brings the fan on during the heat cycle. It may just need adjusted. If the fuse blows, I would think that the control board is probably bad. If it doesn't blow, Remove the thermostat. Leaving all thermostat wires open check them with an Ohm meter. There should be no continuity between them. Twist all the wires together at one end and ohm them again at the other end. You should have complete continuity on all wires. If the wiring checks out, down power the unit. Double check your wire colors and rewire the control board. With all wires open at the thermostat, turn the power back on. Touch the RED wire to the YELLOW wire. The Condensing unit should come on. Touch the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The fan should come on. Touch the RED wire to the WHITE wire. The heat should come on. Down power the unit. Replace the thermostat. Test unit. If the fuse has lasted ok but blows now it is either wired wrong at the Thermostat or the thermostat is bad. I hope I have helped. NOTE: If you can not understand these instructions. Call a licensed Heating / Air conditioning company. kstfas
Posted on Sep 23, 2007
SOURCE: MHU 75 Model Mr. Heater
The roll out switch is a small disc shaped part about the size of a nickle. There may be more than one. anyway there is a button shaped like a small peg in the center if it, push it in and it should stay in. You may need to re examine the limit switch, because this is what it sounds like. they are rated for a set temperature, so your application may need a higher temp. A simple way to check parts like these is to by-pass them by taking the wires off the part and connecting them together. If this solves the problem, that it. My only concern is that this is a new installation, and maybe its not venting adequately or its burning up all the usable air in the room. That's why most of these parts are on the equipment.
Posted on Dec 24, 2007
sometime if the heater has been sitting for days spiders get into the burner area or the area between the tank and the burner and make a web blocking the flow. I have taken a compressed air in a can like the ones you use for computers laptops and blow air up the shaft and around the burner wait 2 minutes then try again. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 blowouts to work. Put the air compressor right in the little gas nozzle that comes out to light the pilot for the best results
Posted on Aug 21, 2008
Try disconnecting the heater element first and see what happens if still same unplug motor and try again, it is a process of elimination.
Plz rate solution.
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
If it went dead almost
immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer. But this is likely an inverter model, so it wouldn't have one and would be some other component in the inverter I'd say.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:
The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics. Or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
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