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My first guess would be the speed control plate. It has three screws in an upside down triangular shape. The two screws on top control and adjust speeds 1 thru 6, and often times just one screw being out a 16th of a turn will shut the mixer off completely. I would venture that when you were removing the two stud bolts you moved the adjustment screws on the speed control plate. Remember that even a slight movement can shut down your mixer, take a phillips screwdriver and turn the top left screw one quarter turn while the machine is on, it can start on you so don't be shocked and jump with a loaded screwdriver in your hand at the back of an electrical device, stay calm, if no start then try the left screw a quarter turn, if it does not start go to a half turn on each screw, if still no start turn thr screws back to the start place and try the bottom screw a quarter turn left and right, if you do not start by now, then something is wrong in another place, go back to the brushes and take them out and check how you put them in, these are the two most common problems with a no start mixer. If this does not fix your problem or get the mixer to start please come back here with more info. If you motor raced in the first place then I would suspect the phase control board, but when it came back to normal speed it leades me away from the phase board. When the phse control board goes out the mixer only works at high speed. So please let us know so that we can help further.
If you took your brushes out to check them then your mixer will not work if you put the brushes back in the wrong way even if you fixed the original problem. the beveled side of the brushes must go back into the brush holders a very specific way/direction because the brush holders have a pinched corner on one edge that allows the brush to slide past and to make contact with the armature. if you are sure that the brushes are in the correct way lets proceed. (If not get a flashlight and look inside the brush holder for the pinched down corner and reinsert the brushes the right way) fist the basics, I know it seems dumb to even think this but ... well you know. 1. check the outlet you are using for the mixer to see that it has power. 2. The outlet is hot, look at the rar top of the mixer you will see a small "Phillips Head" screw. take it out. and lift up and out at the same time to remove the the rear motor head cover. 3. take a moment and look at what you see. now look at the cord that you use to plug the mixer into the outlet. follow it back into the mixer head and you will see three wires. Green = ground and it is attached to the mixer frame with a #3 Phillips screw, leave it alone. the other two wires, one black and one white attach to what is called the speed control board by means of two flag style connectors. Are they attached? Or have they or either one of them come off? 4. if they are attached to the flag terminals, then get a multi meter and check for power between the terminals. the black test probe goes to the black lead on the mixer terminal, your red test lead goes on the white flag terminal attached to the mixer. personally i would disconnect these two leads before I tested them to avoid any safety issues with the mixer. If ther is no power to the terminals when you p,lug the cord into the wall then the cord is bad. Order one and replace it. you could also test the cord another way by checking for ohms resistance and you won't have to plug the cord in at all. Ohms testing is safer. 5, if the cord is good then the next thing to look at is the phase control board. that is a small computer style board above and behind the big black and copper board with 3 screws in it. It has 4 wires coming out of it. You probably have no real way to test this unless you are familiar with electrical :Bread Board" circuitry. i usually just carry a new one with me and replace it. It's faster. 6. If the system still does not start I remove speed control plate/board,The black and copper one. (there is a spring attached that will have to be removed, if you let it snap back into the machine you will have to dismantle the entire motor head to dig it out, so hook a cloth under it's clip that will hold it and keep it from snapping back into the mixer). Now install a new spped plate and test again. if you still have no power there are only two electric problems left one is the armature and the stator which are the two components that make up the motor, but it will require a complete tear down to replace. I have never had a motor go out. the problem is usually the cord or brushes. Let me know if this helped. If not we can post a location to the service manual and parts list for your mixer.
If you have already fixed the problem then great and I'm sorry that i didn't see it sooner. If you have not then do this first. BTW if you are under warranty this WILL NOT VOID the warranty.
Solution 1; There is a silver ring around the front of the mixer that you attach your beater or whip to. Take a nonmetalic hammer and a screw driver, place the screwdriver on the top edge of the ring and tap LIGHTLY on the screwdriver. The ring will fall off after a couple taps. DO NOT hit it hard, you can scratch the finish all the way down to the raw Zinc frame and you can knock the ring out of round. The ring is only held on by pressure so if you knock the ring out of round it will not stay on anymore. Onward and upward...turn the mixer upside down (On a Towel or you will scratch the finish) and you will see five screws that are now exposed tighten them down again. They won't turn much so don't worry it only requires about a 16th. of a turn. What you have just done is to tighten up the two parts of the mixer and apply pressure to the gasket / seal that hold the gear head grease in. While you have the mixer in this position (you have probably figured it out by now that someone else is holding the mixer upright while your working on it) you will find 4 more screws that attach to the mixer toward the rear. Give them a little tighten turn also. Now take the silver ring and place it back where you took it off from and tap it back into place. This ring is held in place by pressure only. If you find that the ring is not going on not to worry. You can give it a good whack as long as you hit straight down. If you knock it sideways you can knock the ring out of round and then it will never stay up again. So be careful with the hammer. If you look closely at the inside of the ring you will see what may be called "Stretch Marks" from where the ring was originally move it past those marks and tap it on. going back to the original stretch marks does not always work and the ring falls of so choose a new position for putting the ring back on.
Solution 2 THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY. If you proceed with this step and your mixer is under warranty you will void the remaining time on your warranty and you will be doing a basic tear down of your mixer. So first you need to order two parts, a gasket and some food safe grease. do a search for kitchenaid grease and kitchenaid gasket and you will find both at several sites including Amazon, so check pricing and shipping as both vary widely between sites. The next thing to do is go to kitchenaid.com and download a parts list for your mixer by clicking on the support tab and then click on download manuals and user guides. This will give you a working diagram of your mixer so that you can follow along with your work. The next thing to do is go out on the internet and search for a video that is out there that will walk you through it step by step. Change grease in kitchenaid mixer will take you there. To do a write up step by step would take a long time and a lot of space. It is basically eleven separate steps of dissassembly to get to the gear case grease then you have to clean out the old and re-pack with new grease and put it all back together. during the process you can knock your mixer out of "Speed" and then you have to re- tune the mixer speed. again, not hard but another step to do and there is a video on the internet for that too. You can check with Kitchenaid Customer Service and they will put you on to the nearest Factory authorized sevice center, If you are close you can drop it off if it is far away you will have to ship. the mixer weighs 25-30 pounds and will cost $25-30 dollars to ship. they will get return shipping. the cost of the re-pack also varies by state and location. In Orlando Florida it costs $110.00 to have it done plus shipping. In Miami if you haggle you can get it for $90.00 and if you don't have to ship at all it will be less. the job is not hard but it will require your time (2 Hours for the novice) and lots of patience and a work area that you don't mind getting dirty. DO NOT do this on your wife's kitchen table she WILL shoot you when the grease gets all over the place. good luck.
You will probably want to remove the two silver looking inspection caps. Just carefully pry them up and remove. Then you will be able to get a finger hold on the transmission cover. It has one or two locating or dowel pins that keep it in place. What I normally do is take a soft mallet and tap on the cover while gently lifting one end, then do the same to the other side until you have it loose enough to lift off. I know this because I just spent the last 4 months working on my A200 mixer. I'm not sure exactly what the model AE 200 is, though. I hope this was helpful.
Get A Copy of the Repair Parts List for your model at Kitchenaid.com.
Remove the Gearcase Motor Housing (1) & the Transmission Housing (7)
Remove the 2 screws (23) holding down the Motor (2) and lift off way from
the Worm Gear (17). Test run the motor by itself at different speeds.
If it runs fine then it's time to inspect all the gears in the Transmission
Housing(7). Remove all the brown Grease covering the gears.
Pay attention in particular to the teeth of the Worm Follower Gear (19).
(the Bevel Gear (21) sits on top of this gear)
They should not be worn out or chipped. If they are then this is the source
of the noises you're hearing (the Worm Gear is grinding away the teeth of
the Worm Follower Gear). Once the Follower is replaced, your mixer will
be just as new again.
Please Note that this replacement is not an easy task. You need the right
tools and don't use a hard object like a steel screwdriver to pry out the
Planetary plate (15) from the beater shaft. Before re-assembly, use only
fresh new Food Grade Grease from Kitchenaid (the old grease may contain
metal filings from the worn out gear that will damage your new one)
You need to adjust the mixer speeds. Obtain a copy of the KSM150 Repair Part List from
Kitchenaid.com. Remove the screw holding the End Cover and locate the three screws from
the Control Plate. All three (2 top left and right, and 1 bottom) must all be adjusted.
1. Loosen the lock nuts enough & Turn the 2 top screws clockwise until they cannot be turned anymore. Leave the bottom screw alone for now. 2. Use a dab of white paint or paper whiteout to mark the positions of the Phillips screws. 3. Plug in your mixer and Set the speed selector to "Stir". 4. Turn each top screw One full turn couterclockwise (alternating between Left and Right) Keep making one full turn at the time (for both left and right) until the motor starts running. 5. Put your hand near the Agitator shaft and allow it to brush your finger slightly. Use your watch or clock and start counting the number of times the shaft touches your finger in 60 seconds. The correct count should be 60 RPM (Rounds Per Minute). If it is less or more than 60, give each screw 1/4 turn counterclockwise or clockwise and start counting again. Now tighten both lock nuts. 6. Set the speed selector to "6" and turn the bottom screw either clockwise or counterclockwise to achieve a speed of 180 RPM.
For your reference, the planetary RPM's for the 5-qt. tilt-head Artisan Stand Mixer are as follows: Stir speed - 60 Speed 2 - 95 Speed 4 - 135 Speed 6 - 180 Speed 8 - 225 Speed 10 - 280
My wife has the same model and the planetary unit fell off shortly after we bought it. Since we had moved overseas to a remote pacific island, getting it fixed under warranty was out of the question.
Since the rotary unit is a pressue fit, I pressed it back into place and it worked fine for about 3 months before I had to repeat the process. After that it became a monthly ritual.
I finally decided to fix it for good. What I did was drill a 3/8" hole in the center of the nub in the middle of the inverted rotary cover plate. I then drilled a 5/16" pilot hole in the center of the grooved shaft that the rotary cover plate presses onto. I then tapped that hole with a 18 NC tap. I was careful to tap it just a little shy of the depth of the cap screw that I was going to insert into the threaded hole so that it would jam as I tightened it. I then greased all the gears with a white machine grease and pressed the roary cover plate back onto the shaft. I then put a washer on a 5/16"-18 x 1" socekt head cap screw and clamped the thing together. It hasn't come off in the last 2 years.
While I am moderately skilled in this sort of thing it wasn't a precision operation. Since I was living in a fairly remote location with no shop, I did the entire operation on the kitchen counter using a handheld electric drill. Probably the hardest part was determining how deep to tap the shaft. I did it by trial and error. You can adjust the depth by using a washer or two of varying thicknesses.
I'm really surprised how lame a design using a press fit for this assembly is. They could easily prevent the problem by using my approach or even putting a cotter pin through the shaft and reciever tube in the rotary cover plate (a small hole would be needed in the side of the tube to set the cotter pin).
From what I've seen on the internet while looking for a solution, this is a fairly pervasive problem.
We thought we were buying a high quality machine that we thought would be reliable in our remote situation. Fortuantely, other than the falling rotary cover issue, the machine has worked great.
Easier to buy a new one and replace it. You can pull it apart after shutting the water off by removing the plastic cap (has a small screwdriver groove) beneath it is a phillips head screw, remove it and pull up, remove the retaining nut and pull the assembly apart. You can then take steel wool and polish it and put it back togethere but it will soon do it again.
Look at the brush from the side.. The surface that rides on the armature is curved> One leg is longer than the other leg. The long leg is the trailing and the short is the leading edge. Looking at the cooper end of the motor you can tell which way the motor rotates by the traces the brushes make. The leading edge will be on the clean side and the trailing edge is the side that is smeared black.on tthe copper. The long leg of the curve on each brush goes on the smearch side of those copper bars the brush rides on. Both brushes. Looking in the hole of the brush holders you will see what I mean. When you put the brushes in, you must make sure they are up against the copper and the springs are holding them down evenly.. You can lift the brush carefully and let it go to make sure it is working freely. Now, see if you can put an attachment on and turn it by hand. I'm not sure you will be able to so don't bend anything or hurt yourself.. Put the brush caps back on, remove the attachment and plug the mixer in.. Attachments off, fingers clear, turn it on. Does it run? If not, tap the mixer on its side with your hand.. Make sure the switch is on high. Tap it several times if need be. This is to straighten up the brushes to where the springs want them. When the motor starts turning, slight taps help. Keep it going until it picks up speed and let run for five minutes to seat the brushes. Let me know if it still won't run. I'll be watching for a comment from you.
1. Remove the acorn nut, hex nut, and washer that hold the "planetary" agitator section on the transmission shaft. 2. Remove the trim ring (if any) around the same. 3. The agitator section should now be able to be worked free. 4. Remove the retainer clip on the top of the agitator shaft. (Some models have a pair of hex nuts here; if so, remove those.) 5. Pry the gear up and off the shaft. Remove the square key from the shaft keyway at the same time. 6. Tap gently on the top of the agitator shaft to drive it out from the bearings and grease seal. 7. Recommend removing and replacing the top bearing at this time; it's inexpensive to replace, if you're in this deep. 8. Use a suitable diameter piece of round steel stock to drive out the lower bearing and oil seal. I don't recommend using the agitator shaft. 9. Clean thoroughly, insert a new bottom bearing and oil seal, drive in place with a rubber mallet. 10. Replace agitator shaft through oil seal and bearing, tap gently into place. 11. Fill cavity with approved lubricant. I use USP-grade mineral oil, as it is food-safe and provides satisfactory lubricity. 11. Install top bearing, tap gently into place. 12. Reverse steps 5-1 to reassemble.