After putting used compressor in, changed expansion valve and correct freon but clutch only runs for 10 seconds but does blow cold air while running.. the reason i changed ac compressor was because it had a burned out clutch.. thanks..
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First you need to locate the low side of the charging system. This is usually determined by the connector you can get now days with the Freon. Not sure what year you are working with but the Schrader valve on the line will normally be two different sizes so you can not hook up to the high side. You can press down on the Schrader valve and if there is pressure in the system it will release a small amount of Freon, if you are trying to determine if it is allowing the Freon to enter the system. The Schrader valves screw in just like a bike stem valve does, if it needs to be changed. .
he opened hood saw the clutch disengaged.
so he connected a voltmater to clutch coil pins, its 12vdc
he is right.
no, its 0v. he is wrong.
if 0v that the THE AMP logic module shutting it down on purpose
so you dont wreck it, it has self protections.
one is the hi/low switch, freon too much or too little.
want to guess or test.
we can find all 7 ways, to cause (or more) the AMP to shut down.
its not hard at all with a $10 volt meter..
that depends on what happened to the last one. if the last one , broke up inside it then contaminates the whole system, insuring the new compressors early death. at the least, a compressor, receiver /dryer. (my be the expansion valve) 1: must be done in a shop, so they can capture the old freon. ie: Ozone damage, ever heard of that? 2: then replace all bad parts. 3: next, pull a hard vacuum on the system (removes all water) 4: adds freon by weight. 5: test system for full performance and correct any deficiences.
You may well have a ccot system. Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube. Rather than having a adjustable expansion valve, they use a fixed orifice for an expansion valve, then turn the compressor on and off to maintain correct pressures. This does produce higher fuel mileage. It is not necessary to run the compressor full time to achieve proper cooling.
Sounds like a vent control not working. If the A/C was low on freon the compressor clutch will not turn on. and it would even cycle, youll need to be in the car start it up with running turn on A/C, you hear the comressor come on and youll hear the clutch listen for it, it should stay on for 45 seconds then cycle off. is it doing that?Now if its too fast then we have a low freon. okay lets move out of this are and check control temperature vent. does the knob turn with resistance it should if it doesnt then we know the control is non operational.and that will have to be fixed,okay it the knob works this will be the trickey on underneath the glove box is a vacuum control they have to be plugged together for mixture and vent control to work if it is disxconneted or loose youll have no temperature control.remeber if you visually inspect the A/C line on the top left hand area you should see condensation of the filter drier it top left that silver can.you should see condensation on it. if not just because its full and because it turns on there is the expansion valve that need to be tested the expansion valve may have failed , only a A/C gauge can trouble shoot it, and yes the compressor will cycle but wont get cold
Unfortunately, I do not know precisely. But for the most part auto a/c's are all the same. Below I will describe how to find it. I have also included a aguide to determine system operability that may or may not be helpful. Just trace the system with flow path described below the valve has to be between condensor and evaporator.
Reminder the flow for the a/c system is : 1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator. 2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve) 3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator. 4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.
Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.
Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.
If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.
The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.
The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon and fill to system capacity.
The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.
The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..
Nissan came out with a Technical service bulletin on problem evaporators which caused the freon to flow from the expansion valve to the low side hose without going through the heat exchanger portion of the evaporator core it self. It can be spotted by the low side pipe from the compressor which may develop a "frost" on it. What occurs, is that the low side freezes up and has to thaw out before it will cool again.
NTB97-007a was the service bulletin.
Issued on January 15, 1998
Heading: A/C poor performance, suction side shows low or vacuum.
I feel pretty sure this is your problem. It can be verified with a set of manifold guages. The low side after it has been charged, should never drop into a vacuum and rarely drop below 20 psi. no matter how long you run the system.
The only way the problem can be solved is replace the evaporator.