Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
How to take front off kenmore washer to change the belt
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if its less than 15 years old its a direct drive whirlpool, no belt, remove the cabinet, not the back panel. look up direct drive whirlpool washer cabinet removal on internet, and replace the coupler, most likely, if it drains.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
If you've removed the screws and the panel sticks, tapping on each side will knock it loose. The panel should drop down, then off. You can also try propping the two front feet of the washer up slightly for better access. A 2x4 works real well. This will allow more room for the panel to drop and gives better access to the screws. The washer is very heavy, so you may need some assistance to lift the front. Either lift from the bottom, or place your hands on the front facing of the cabinet to push the washer back. DO NOT push on the door or control panel.
If you still need assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
Hello I'm afraid you didnt find a belt but maybe a piece of the coupling. Here are detailed instructions on replacing a coupling: from the limited information this sounds like it's going to be a broken coupling. Kenmores are usually direct drive machines made by whirlpool, this means they don't have a belt. Instead the transmission is connected directly to the motor via a coupling. This is what a coupling looks like: To confirm this pull the machine forward enough that you can lean it back and it will stand back under it's own weight. Wedge something underneath the chasis so it does not fall on you while your accessing the bottom. Go under the Machine and locate the motor, You will see the pump connected to the motor connected to the transmission. 1. Unplug the wire harness from the motor then. 2. Use a screw driver remove the 2 clips holding the pump in place and remove or push the pump out of the way. 3. You will need to remove the 2 screws from the brackets holding the Motor in place with a nut driver. 4. With a screwdriver remove the 2 clips holding the motor in place (be carefull to support the motor as the clips comes off) 5. remove the motor and drop it onto the floor. Now you will see the coupling..one side on the motor the other side on the transmission the rubber connector in between. Replace the coupling if broken or worn and reassemble the washer in reverse order. Now you should be all set. Be aware you may smell rubber on the first couple loads this is normal after replacing a coupling. Good Luck!! if you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Mike p.s Please remember to rate my solution since this helps me to help other people :) Thanks!
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.
Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.
Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.
What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.
On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the "Load Level", "Load Size" or "Water Level". On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.
How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½" off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.
NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.
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Posted on Sep 14, 2010
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