Question about Washing Machines
My machine is leaking from the bottom left. The drain hose is secure externally. When I reach my hand up under the back of the machine right under the drain hose the metal I can touch is wet. I think this may have been going on for a while as I have rust on the left side fromt and back feet and under the left side of the machine. I need help in idetifying the cause of the problem as well as any links to good do it yourself repair videos. Thanks!
Look on the bottom of the front panel. Are there two screws on that model holding the panel on?
Posted on Nov 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Having bleach spilled on the unit will hasten the process of rusting - it will eventually rust especially if in a wet humid setting
Posted on Sep 20, 2008
Have you checked the drain pump? These washers are notorious for developing leaks with the pump. To inspect thoroughly, you will need to remove the exterior case of the washer. Just follow these steps:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Locate the water pump. It is a small plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the wash tub. The pumps can develop small cracks and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced.
Check the tub seal. The seal in the center of the wash tub. If the seal develops leaks, you will notice water track marks on the transmission and a puddle under the center of the wash tub.
Check the the for cracks. Although it is not common, I have seen stress cracks develop on the exterior wash tub, causing leaks. The tub will have to replaced if this is the case.
Check the air dome hose to make sure it is still attached and not leaking. It is a small plastic hose that runs from the pressure switch in the console to the lower right hand side of the wash tub. If the hose comes loose of develops leaks, the washer will begin to leak as it fills (usually about 1/3 of the way full).
To reinstall the case, follow these steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
NOTE: Run some water in the tub about 1/3 of the way full BEFORE you remove the exterior washer case. That way you can check for any leaks with water in the tub. Let me know what you fins. I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 04, 2009
Your drain pump is leaking. They are not serviceable and cannot be repaired. The following link explains how to replace the pump:
If you need an illustration of your washer and components, searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, or pcappliancerepair.com usually have some excellent exploded view diagrams that you can refer to.
Prices can vary between these sites so shop around for the best deal. NOTE: Use the part number from the Sears site and use it to "Search by Part Number" on the other sites. It makes it easier to find as some sites may not have your model number listed, but will still carry the part.
Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful.
NOTE: You can also order a repair manual for about $20 (part number 1170635) at repairclinic.com if you need more instruction.
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
never dead just depends how much time and money you want to spend
new pump $60.00 dollars
new coupling $22.00
new tub seal $15.00
transmission and tub seal $236.00
specialty tool spanner wrench $16.00
this is just parts if you decide to replace installing yourself
Posted on Jan 27, 2011
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