Question about Maytag MAH6500 Neptune Front Loading Washer w/Built in Water Heater

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Maytag front loading washing machine

I have a Maytag front loading washing machine (model number MAH2400AWW). When the unit is started it will run normally for part of the cycle, then stop and show an error code of 3E. I called Maytag Customer Support, and they could not give me the meaning of this error code. I would appreciate anyone who is familiar with this error code to forward the information.

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  • nattyg Dec 21, 2007

    We have the same problem, the machine goes, slowly, for a bit then flashes 3E. Has anyone found a solution, self fix or repairman?
    Thanks

  • trashman72 Apr 13, 2008

    We have the same problem, error code 3E, same symptons and same results calling Maytag for help. They said the error code does not exist but if you go to http://acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/was... you will find a relatively informative schematic of the washer, including this error code. The control board seems to be the most likely cause. I certainly will not buy Maytag again as we have had nothing but problems since the first day we owned it, some 2 1/2 years ago.

  • VF1rst Feb 14, 2009

    i have same problem with the E3,tried the diagnostics,still doesnt work. This is 3rd time the washer has not worked in the 18months we had it...total piece of ****

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    there are not solutions in the manual for this

  • Anonymous Mar 28, 2014

    dishwasher fills then runs for a few seconds ten stops

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This worked for me for the E3 error code: Turn the machine off and then on. Enter the Service Mode by pressing the Chime and Exrta Rinse keys for 3 sec. Display the Diagnostic Codes by pressing the Rinse and Spin key. Clear the codes by pressing the Delay and Chime keys for 3 sec. Turn the machine off, unplug and plug in the power cord. This dumps the memory. Evidently, if it gets full, it causes problems with the programming and messes up the cycles.

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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I had this same problem on my 3 1/2 year old machine and was about lose my cool if I had to spend $$ on a new motor or control board. I called an appliance technician who was nice enough to say that 80% of the time, all you have to do is shut off the breaker for about 30 minutes and turn it back on. I had already tried unplugging and plugging back in a few times, but never for more than a minute did I have it unplugged. My breaker is hard to get at, so I just unplugged the power strip that the washer was plugged into for a half-hour and, like magic, it's been working fine since I plugged it back in! Saved me the $79 the tech was going to charge to diagnose the problem. I would've been fuming if I paid someone any money to unplug and plug it in!

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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3E has something to do with the motor control. Apparently the design of this machine allows a water leak either from the water intake box or down a rubber hose which runs along with the motor wire harness. The water tracks to the harness and motor and shorts the whole mess out. a.k.a. fried motor.
pull the back plate off (3 screws) and look at the motor where the wire harness plugs into it. Notice a bunch of green stuff- that is corrosion from the electrical short circuit causing your problem. See the rust build up on the side rail below the motor (as there will be none on the side adjacent) this is indicative of a water leak.
Our machine started doing this within the first week and we had the "service" people come out and "fix" it, but it appeared they did nothing. When I opened the machine up I discovered the problem when I ohmed out the rotor contacts in the motor wire harness and found it to be open instead of the factory specs of appx 2.5 ohms.
Maytag (now Whirlpool) does not want to send me a new motor and harness because of their bad design. The machine is a sealed unit only 23 months old. Note to all...do not buy Maytag or Whirlpool. That Maytag repair man is sitting on his bum because the company does not care about their consumers and their cheaply made products (sold at high markups).
If you want pictures write me at aboxoffrogs@optonline.net

Posted on Dec 24, 2007

  • boxoffrogs Dec 24, 2007

    sorry for pictures write me at aboxoffrogs@gmail.com

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I troubleshot this same error 3E for a couple days. My machine would not enter a high spin. I will skip all the stuff I did which didn't help and get to the point.

The Circuit board had a relay with a bad solder. The relay of focus is a TYCO SCHRACK RTE24012A
Maytag front loading washing machine - maytag-front-loading-washing-machine-k5ld0vjud4f4h305puhi1q2y-2-0.jpg

To find this I had to disassemble the two boards from the front bezel assembly which isn't hard but shouldn't be done unless you are sure of what you are going. I kind of took an approach of tossing caution to the wind because I was either going to fix "something", or get a new board.

Only note I will add is focused towards the motor. I did take the motor out to check the brushes and blow it clean. When I reassembled the brushes to the motor I put them in opposite positions. The brush assemblies look identical so I am not worried about the swap plus I wanted to rule out them being "set" into a glazed condition. The contact surfaces were shiny as I would expect but I just wanted to rule out them as being the cause, and the washers condition didn't change. Still had 3E.

The washer is working and spinning a load on high speed as I type this. It appears to be fixed, however I have a new noise which I think is the brushes re-setting.

Hope this helps anyone who wants to dive in if they have run out of other options. maytag-front-loading-washing-machine-k5ld0vjud4f4h305puhi1q2y-3-3.jpg

Posted on Nov 24, 2016

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  • Master
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Try changing the main control board with a swap from your friendly neighborhood service repairman who will loan you the board for a cookie and coffee

Posted on May 23, 2007

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