I got a second hand handle for a tc201 but it had been repaired but was not working. I opened it up ant the wires had been re spliced badly so I respliced them but the head came off and the wires pulled out of the connectors. I dont' remember which wires went to which connectors. THe is a green, black, and a white. Do you haveve a diagram?
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Heating element connections r riveted together - u can't solder them as it would melt when running.
If the wire detached at the element it is near impossible to reattach it.
U would have to remove the rivet and replace it with the wires connected. My experience is that the mica that it is attached to is too fragile to get the ribvet removed.
40 Watts is pretty powerful and will do what you need. However if it
doesn't have any temperature control it may be too powerful. I use a
25 Watt electric soldering iron and it does everything I ever wanted in
electronics. The danger of using an iron that is too hot is that it
could heat components and solder beside where you want the heat.
If it's a gas operated soldering iron it's probably ok since ratings on
gas irons are only estimates. Gas soldering irons are handy for
working away from mains power, like in your car, however many of them
tend to work great when new but after a few months they start to run out
of gas very quickly probably possibly because they develop a leak. If
you're only buying one I'd say get an electric 25 Watt one.
I had a similar problem. I found that the cable from the transformer to the iron had an open in it. There are two spots where this mainly happens. At the transformer connector, or and probably this is it, at the iron entrance, You can remove the heater on the iron and take a voltmeter and see if you have power there. I found on mine that there was an open. I removed my cable, cut off the end at the iron and re-installed it. It was not easy but I managed to get it repaired. This is a kinda trial and error thing, mostly cables fail at the strain reliefs, this is where there is the most play in the system, and the constant flexing eventually breaks a wire. There are a number of places to get replacement cables, etc. Here is the one I use www.
eaesales.com . Please let me know if this has helped.
I assume that we are talking about electric soldering irons.
If at least one of the irons has a good heater you can fix it replacing/rebuilding the wiring.
To know if the heater is good read Ohms at its terminals, after disconnecting one of the two terminals. If the multimeter stays on infinity (circuit open), then the heater is gone. If there is a certain impedance, then it is still good. In that case test switch if present. Use the multimeter on impedance to ensure switch is opening and closing, or jump the switch contacts. Rebuild wiring and get a working iron out of a broken one.
...naturally to do the repair job you will need at least one working iron, along with the multimeter.
where the plug and cord wires are connected inside the barrel, the wires start to fray from rotating the iron barrel and start to fray and short,some irons you can remove the barrel from the handle by removing screws from the body of the iron,some are not able to be disassembled,if you can plug it in and the breaker doesnt blow,then rotate the cord and see if it blows the breaker then,this is a good sign of what is posted in my comment above
check this out
Consider the wattage of the soldering iron. A good soldering iron will have wattage of 80 to 150. A wattage of lower than 80 is not ideal for stained glass. You need a soldering iron that will melt the solder fast enough for your project. Consider the type of temperature control you want. Some irons will have a temperature control built in the tip. When the temperature drops, it will turn on and when the temperature is reached, it will turn off. Other soldering irons have a built-in rheostat. You control the temperature by turning the dial up or down. A separate rheostat can be purchased to plug your soldiering iron into. Rheostats are highly recommended. This lets you match your temperature to your soldering style and allow you to do decorative effects.
Consider the heating element. There are two types of elements, ceramic or wire-wrapped. Ceramic core irons maintain heat more efficiently than wound wire heaters. In a ceramic core, the heater core extends into the tip for faster heat transfer. This will keep the tip hot for a longer period so you can work quickly and faster. Ceramic irons maintain their temperature longer and heat up within 30 to 60 seconds.
Consider the weight of the soldering iron. You want a soldering iron that is lightweight and balanced. You will have less fatigue when using a lightweight soldering iron at long stretches of time. Check to see if it fits your hand comfortably. Check to see if it has a good rubber cushion for your hand.
Check for the ease of changing tips on your soldering iron. When soldering stained glass, you want to match your tip to the technique you want to use. There are a variety of tips on the market for soldering irons, and you want to be able to change them easily.
Check the soldering iron to see if it has a heavy-duty cord and a three-prong plug. You want a grounded three-prong plug to prevent the possibility of shock.
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