I have a 2 ohm sub and a 4 ohm sub and a 1 ohm amp how do i hook it up to get the lowest load with out dropping under 1 ohm right now i have them wired positive to negative and back to the amp its loud but i dont know the ohm load like this
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: 2 subs with different ohm loads
Wiring subwoofers with different coil resistance is problematic. If they share the same airspace, plan on buying one or more subs in the near future. Because as they share the same power source, having more or less resistance changes the amount of power the subwoofer "sees" in the circuit.
As for your current installation:
if wired in series...
+ on sub (1) to amplifier +
- on same sub (1) to + on sub (2)
- on sub (2) to amplifier
Would result in a Net 6 ohm load
if wired Parallel....
+ on both subs to + on amplifier
- on both subs to - on amplifier
Would result in a net 3 ohm Load.
(The amplifier with higher resistance getting more power however)
Look into getting a matched pair of speakers. While it does not need to be the same manufacturer necessarily, the voicecoils should be identical for both to play at the same level.
No doubt you are experiencing sonic cancellation and musical muddiness when listneng to your current configuration.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
the best way? hmm. i would start off with some wire. Keep in mind that you will need to separate the positive (usually red or has a stripe or marking on it) from the negative (Black usually is the common color for this wire) and hook the up according to your amps positive and negative hook ups / terminals following your sub-woofers terminals. then depending on your sub woofers Voice coils (Duel or single voice coils) yours are duel or quad coils but i\'m sure they are duel (2 of each positive and negative equaling a total of 4 posts on each sub-woofer). figure out your amps ohm load handling and does your amp run hot (1,2 or 4 ohm stable some are even less like 0.5 or lower) i would run at a 1 or 2 ohm load as that is usually standard on 1 channel amps. make sure to check your wiring and if your not sure about ohm loads just Google wiring for sub-woofer ohm loads such as 0.5 ohm, 1 ohm, 2 ohm or 4 ohm loads. also make sure your box is not sealed do to the fact they are siht and cant produce sound like a vented / ported enclosure keep the size as big as you can fit in your car or truck the bigger the better. i had one 8\'\' sony sub pounding like a 15\'\' sub real loud . Also MDF particle board is garbage it causes port noise and absorbs water
If you're ever unsure about how you need to wire your subwoofers to get the correct ohm load to your amplifier there are a few resources to help. Usually in the owners manual that comes with your subs and your amp they include a detailed ohm load calculator. First step is to determine what subwoofers you have. Common subs come in a dual 2 ohm or a dual 4 ohm version or a single 2 ohm or a single 4 ohm version. Next determine what ohm load your amplifier is rated at. Mono "subwoofer" amps usually are rated x amount of watts at either a 2 or a 1 ohm load. This means you need to purchase the correct subwoofer combination to match your amp. If youre purchasing 2 dual voice coil 4 ohm subs then to maximize an amp you should buy a mono amp stable at 1 ohm. and Dual 2 ohm subs would need a 2 ohm stable amp wired in series parallel. A great resource for a beginner is to go to www.the12volt.com and on the top of the page find the words "subwoofer wiring diagram" and click on it. This will bring you to a drop down menu where you choose the number of drivers "subs" or "speakers" you have and then you choose the impedence in the next drop down menu. Next you'll be provided with multiple wiring options. Good luck and never think you can't do it yourself. Once you learn it's very easy to retain.
That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.
Dark side has you running the subs in series, not parallel. Subs if 8 ohm=
Sub 1/ + -
Sub 2/ + -
= 4 ohm load, if they are 4 ohm subs that wiring diagram will drop you down to 2 ohm's. Hope this helps anyone in the future.
using these subs will limit you to a 4 oh load to the amp witch will only let the amp produce half of it's power. the lowest ohm load that amp can handle is 2 ohm and the next lowest you can wire the subs is 1 ohm and that will over heat the amp and destroy it. so to answer your question first wire each sub like this diagram shows... Wiring Option #1
then once both subs are wired this way you wire both positives from each sub to the positive side of the amps speakers terminals and wire each subs neg. to the amps neg speakers terminal. the wire is series parrelle and will present a 4 ohm load witch will be the safest to run with your amp.
This amp is rated at 500 watts into a 4 ohm load bridged mono or 250 watts x 2 into 2 ohm load stereo. Do not go below that impedance in either case. The amp was meant to dissipate a certain amount of power, driving it to hard will lead to damage. Your speakers look like they are dual voice coils @ 4 ohms each. To get the max power while still saving your subs would be to parallel the voice coils on each woofer then run them in stereo with your amp. Stereo 2 ohm is 250 watts per speaker.
you can't get full power out of it because those subs can be wired series/parrallel to a 1 ohm load or just series to a 4 ohm load and you don't want to put a 1 ohm load on this amp... you need dual 2 ohm subs for this amp... I have the same setup but with dual 2 ohm subs and it is rediculous... you need to buy different subs that are dual 2 ohm or buy an amp that is stable at 1 ohm... you will only get 750 rms out of a kicker 1500.1 at 4 ohms so u will do more harm than good to your subs.
Well, that's a 2-channel amp, so it's really best used to power a set of regular speakers.
The best power solution, for your existing components, is to wire each of your subs voice coils in parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load, and then run each sub off a separate channel from the amp.
The amp is stable only to 4 ohms in bridged mode, so you would series the sub voice coils (8 ohm load) and then parallel them (4 ohm load) to the amp bridged connection. This will result in less power to each sub than if you ran them separately.
The amp is rated to run a 2 ohm load on each channel. To do this, connect the voice coils of one sub in parallel (tie both "+" on the sub to each other and both "-" on the sub to each other), then connect that sub to one channel of the amp. Repeat this process for the other sub and connect it to the other channel on the amp. The subs will be in stereo and the amp will be outputting it's maximum power.
The only thing to try would be to remove the sub wires form the amp and see if it still goes into protect. If it still goes into protect with the subs unhooked then the amp will require repair.. If it doesent go into protect then check to see if you have a shorted subwoofer. also make very sure that you have a good clean bare metal tight ground connection to the body of your car. People forget that step all the time..
Did you do your setup with the correct ohm load? Most of these amps will fail if the subs are hooked up incorrectly(too low of a ohm load).
If the amp has a lowest possible ohm load rating of 4 ohms... but you have a pair of 4 ohm subs.. you hook them up togther at the amp.. both positives togther- two negatives togther.. because it "bumps harder" that way..
Then you now have a 2 ohm load on the amp... The lower the ohm load you put on a amplifier the more it will output. The problem when people do this is that the amp outputs more current then its internal parts are rated for and the output transistors (usually) fail..
most amps will not fail if installed correctly.