Question about Porter Cable Air Tools & Compressors
Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.
*Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.
*Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
*Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.
*Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.
*Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.
*Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.
*Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
Please take time to rate me
Posted on Nov 01, 2012
Your problem sould be in one of two areas:
Leaks: Check the line running from the pump to the tank that it isn't broke, has pin holes in it, or is leaking at the ferrule & nut connections. Make sure the tank drain valve is tightly closed and not leaking. Check the manifold, regulator and hose connectors for leaks also. Soapy water helps with these checks. Do the main pump line before it gets hot.
Cylinder/Valve plate: You have to remove the pump head to check both. If the valve plate overheated the reed valves can get brittle and break or warp to where they won't seal properly to build pressure. Check the piston(s), ring(s) & cylinder condition. A little damage to any of these will let more air leak past them than gets compressed and pushed into the tank.
Posted on Nov 01, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you might need to checktosee if the filter is blocked or dirty were the air intake is just like a car dirt can build up there.
Posted on May 26, 2009
The real question is where exactly is the leak coming from. Compressors have a pressure release valve designed to let the pressure off of the compressor motor so it can start when there is pressure in the tank. This valve is often the culprit and fairly easy to replace. You can order it direct from porter-cable online. Just in case double check the drain petcock sometimes these get worn and won't close completely and can easily be over looked when trouble shooting.
Posted on Jun 12, 2010
Yes...the drain valve on the bottom of the tank is just a standard 1/4 Drain Pedcock that you can purchase at most hardware store.
You can also find these in the hardware section of Lowes or Home Depot where they sell the Air Compressors.
Posted on Oct 24, 2010
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