Question about Turbo Air Reach In Refrigerator Cooler Msr-23nm

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I need to know a condenser motor direction

I need to know if push or pull true the condenser coil

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  • francisco enriquez Nov 03, 2012

    well i have reach-in cooler problem , the evaporator it's freeze in . but i thing its because the condenser fan motor,. I thing the condenser fan motor have to pull the air thru the condenser . but now it;s pushin and the line come out froom condenser its hot at the touh and i thing its not doing the condensing job like post to do

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Nov 03, 2012

    Try reversing the wires on the motor.



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Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?

Posted on Nov 01, 2012


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Our True TUC 93 has a new compressor and new thermostat. Compressor runs continuously, even when thermostat is in the clicked OFF position. What's next?

Dirt is an issue for any type of motor and refrigerators are no exception. No matter how well your air filters are working, the fan will eventually pull in dust that can cake on top of the condenser coils. Once this happens it begins to impede the performance of the coils, much as a dirty spark plug in an engine will cause things to sputter. As a result, your condenser will have to work harder to keep things cool, thus causing the fan to run continually. You can clean condenser coils manually by simply wiping the dirt/grime off while the refrigerator is unplugged for safety.

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Air flow direction for the compressor motor, should it be pulling are away from the compressor, or pushing air into the compressor?

Air should be blowing onto the compressor and then directed across the condenser coils and the heat blows out the bottom front panel of the ref.

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Service manual

Having the area around the door getting warm is normal but getting hot may indicate a defective condenser fan motor or the condenser coils have become blocked with dust. You are going to need to unplug power, pull your refrigerator away from the wall, remove the front kick plate and the rear cover on the back of your refrigerator to get to the condenser coil and fan just to see what is going on. If the fan is not running strong when plugged in then there may be a problem with the=> 61005323 Condenser Fan Motor Above is a video that will help you on cleaning the condenser coils. If you think there is a problem with the fan motor and would like my assistance please let me know. As for a service manual I don't believe there is one for your model number. I do have a manual that is basically the same thing if you like? Thanks Sea Breeze

Jul 11, 2013 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

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Do true kegerator parts have to be replaced with true parts

Depends on what part you are looking for. I use condenser motors, evaporator motors, thermostats, and even compressors and capillary tubes that I sometimes get at local suppliers. If you're looking for gaskets, hinges, panels, tap heads or something like that it may be easier to get from True.

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Condenser motor

Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?

Nov 01, 2012 | Turboair Refrigerators

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I have to push the red reset button about once a day on my outside unit. What can cause this?

Depends on what the reset button is for.

If it is a low pressure cut off then you are probably low on refrigerant or have a dirty inside evaporator coil or bad airflow across the evaporator coil.

If it is a high pressure cutoff then you have a bad condenser fan motor, dirty condenser coil or it is over charged with refrigerant.

If it is an electrical overload reset button then the unit is pulling too many amps or over heating due to refrigerant loss and/or dirty condenser coil.

I'd wash out the condenser coil, ensure that the condenser fan is running, make sure you have a clean filter inside and that the blower is operating properly. If those things are OK and it still pops that reset then call a service tech to look it over for you.

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1 Answer

I have a side by side Kenmore fridge & freezer model 970-563122. A week ago I discovered the condenser fan was siezed up when I was tracking down a water leak for the ice maker. I was able to locate a...

Good day,
That's not a good thing to do. First, shut it down, and let it get to room temperature. The engineers designed it to be either a push or pull style. My suggestion, is to remove the motor and go to an appliance parts house and get a blade that will make it a pusher. In this case 2 wrongs make a right.
However, there is a chance you damaged the compressor. Only testing will tell.
As well, the fact the old one was out had already created an overheating problem with the compressor and just makes the situation worse.
If no luck, it is possible the relay clipped to the body of the compressor is fried, and replacing it may work.
Beyond that you'll need a trained tech to determine the extent of the damage.

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Thermostat does not go below 55 degree could it

You should clean them condenser coils and check the fan motor. That is something that is fairly easy to do. Get some coil cleaner from ace hardware and go by directions. Check that fan motor. If it ain't going while the compressor is going that is your problem.

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Access true td-80-30 consenser fan

You do not access from the side. Access is from the front. You remove the front grill and the entire bottom skid has to be pulled forward. They either have two screws holding the skid down in the front or they are on the side at the very bottom. When you pull the skid out you will have a number of issues to deal with. 1. The refrigerant tubing is looped behind the unit and as you pull forward and later push it back you run the risk of kinking the lines or having them hang up on something. 2. The power cord for the compressor actually is plugged in at the back top of the compressor compartment it is too short and virtually impossible to get out and back in again without accessing the back of the unit as well. 3. The drain tube will most likely get yanked out as well and will require that you access the back of the unit anyway to push it in properly.

Oct 09, 2008 | True TD-80-30

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