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How do I know if the freon needs to be replaced on my whirlpool freezer

Model # ED5HHGXTQ00. Has always leaked from behind appliance on freezer side. Thought it was water. Fridge is 4-5 years old. Two days ago the fridge side temp started increasing. Took the panel off the inside back of freezer and coils were heavily iced. Turned appliance off and defrosted all the ice using a hair dryer. Turned appliance back on without replacing panel so I could see what was happening. Coils are frosting up(not icing yet). I don't know if the fan was working before I started defrosting but it is working now. Question is: What does freon look - smell like? Is it possible that freon has been leaking all these years and I need to recharge the system. Is that something a DIYer can do? Thanks for any advice.

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  • Patty Riley Nov 03, 2012

    Thanks for the feedback anyways. I took the panel off the inside of the freeze compartment and it was iced over pretty good. I turned of the appliance and defrosted using a hair dryer, cleared out dust and debris buildup under the machine and turned everything back one. Works like a charm.

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 9,472 Answers

You will need to replace the "bi-metal thermostat" in the freezer. Here is the part to order. It also has a video to show you how to make the repair.

Posted on Nov 01, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 958 Answers

SOURCE: Evaporator coils frosting up

the frosting of the back compartment of the freezer indicates that the ice builds up at the evaporator ( the coil that cools). the system is supposed to melt the ice after a particular time interval for a period of time in order to start another cycle. im not sure if that model uses the electronic timer which you can not manually adjust to see if it is heating up on the heating mode. you would have to check three things. one is the defrost heater itself if it has continuity. another is the thing that we called thermodisc . its a part of the heating circuit where it cuts the heating current after it senses that the temperature of the evaporator is way up the thaw temperature. it is normally connected in series with the defrost heater and it is attached to the latter part of the evaporator tube. lastly which as i have told you is the timer. if its a mechanical timer, then probably it is not going to the heating mode. another is the electronic timer which is very hard to trouble shoot. you have to really observe the refrigerator how long it is running and if the compressor is stopping and the heater working by looking at the back if water is draining after a few minutes the compressor stop. as i may add, as you have said it is winter there, a thermostat setting could be an issue. the heater could probably not cope up with the coldness of the ambient temperature in which i may suggest to put the thermostat setting to the lowest setting on the knob. i hoped i was able to help....drcool

Posted on Feb 05, 2008

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Frigadaire freezer cold but fridge compartment is warm

i need the complete model number to narrow it down they still make the frs20zrg to this day the last two numbers like frs20zrgwo or frs20zrgw9 is what will tell me what kind of defrost system it has the serial plate is in the fridge side up by the light bulb or on the left hand side or right hand side of the fridge compartment up near the top sorry to be a bother but its necessary

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: FRIGIDAIRE FRS20ZRGD7 (SIDE BY SIDE) WARM FRIDGE/ COLD FREEZER HELP!

look open the freezer door pull the lower kick plate off look for a small little hole there its a mechanical timer model should be close to the wheel in that hole will be a plastic piece open the freezer door you will hear the fan running in the freezer take out the four or five screws on the lower panel where you keep seeing the frost and remove it you will see a silver honeycomb looking piece that's the evaporator on one of the tubes will be clipped a silver dome looking piece with two wires on it that's the defrost thermostat now turn the timer with a screwdriver that's the piece in the little hole slowly to your right till you hear a click and the fan stops in the freezer now as your turning it it will make a ratchet sound you want the click and the fan to stop look at your watch and note the time then wait about 5 minutes and look at the heater to see if its on if its all frosted up the frosted should look all watery if the heater is on then just let it run if not then reach up and turn the freezer control to the off position then un plug the two wires on the defrost thermostat and take the two wires that you unplugged the thermostat from and plug them back together and turn the freezer control back on and wait stay there and watch the heater come on let it defrost the evaporator if the heater comes on when you do that .that means the thermostat is bad if the heater comes on without you having to by pass it that means the timer is bad if you do all that and the heater does not come on then the heater element is bad now its going to get red like an oven and pop and sizzle but don't let it freak you out now if you had to by pass the thermostat and the timer cuts the compressor on before the frost is all clear just turn the timer around again till the fan cuts off and the heater will come back on if you by passed the thermostat then when all the frost is melted then reach up and turn the freezer control back off and reconnect the thermostat.Now after about 30 mins after turning it off the timer should cut back on if its not bad when you change the timer back out the two screws reach under the fridge and turn the timer and its shield till the screws are in the removal position when the timer is loose remove the shield and unplug the timer plug your new one back in then put the shield back on and back where it goes now id recommend changing both the timer and the thermostat as they fail pretty close together the stuff i described above is to make the unit defrost to save your food with out having to use your hair dryer also when all the frost is melted at he bottom of the evaporator on the right hand side is a hole in the cabinet that has to be clear of frost for the fridge to cool properly now any time during this defrost technique if you have a problem turning off the freezer cold control will turn off the defrost system1.gif too if i can be of help or you need to know something just reply to this post

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

carldc3
  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: the coils are frozen solid in freezer behind back wall

frozen coils not always means freon problem. low air flow across evaporator coils could cause freeze up. if door is opened and closed an abnormal amount could cause a freeze up or even something pushed up against the air intake in the refridgerator. i would thaw it out completely and restart it, theres a chance it was nothing major. good luck

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

mgprice
  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: ET18PKXGW01 top freezer ice builds up

Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck! P.s Please don't forget to rate my solution Thanks! Mike

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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