Question about Washing Machines
Hi, My washer will fill to desired level but will go no further. I drained the tub and looked under the unit and immediately notice a dangling wire. The wire is white and had separated from the wiring harness where the harness connects to the motor switch. A friend suggested I check lid switch and pump. Bypassed the lid switch with no result and checked the pump that I had replaced a few months ago but no noticeable problem there. I then reconnected the broken wire to the wiring harness and plugged back into motor switch. Filled tub and this time the unit hummed but went no further. Over the weekend I picked up a used motor (part number 8529935) with moter switch from a local used appliance dealer but have gone no further.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First thin I would try is to check your thermal fuse for continuity.
Its located on the tunnel that incases the heasting element.
Try putting the machine into diagnostic mode. If it won't enter diagnostic mode, then you need to replace the main control board.
You also want to check the drain hose, the end of the hose is tapperd and tends to collect lint. Run a coat hanger up the hose and see if you can fish something out also check that belt.
Posted on Oct 06, 2008
This is the electronic washer. Unplug for two minutes, plugin then open and close lid 7 times. This will reset motor. Also make sure belt is not broken.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;
The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.
Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.
I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079
I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
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The most likely failure is the water level pressure switch or a failed lid switch. If the washer will drain and spin then it's not a failed lid switch. If it will not drain and spin the likely failure is the lid switch.
The water level switch (pressure switch) has 3 wires attached to it, V (violet), P (Pink) and a T (tan) wire. When the tub is empty of water, contact V&P are closed to allow the tub to fill with water. Once the water level reaches the desired setting, contact V&P opens and then contact V&T closes to start the motor agitating. So, with this said if you were to unplug the washer and remove the wires from the water level pressure switch and test to see if terminals V&T is closing by using an ohm meter would indicate if the contact is closed or not.
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