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Washer not spinning

Hi, My washer will fill to desired level but will go no further. I drained the tub and looked under the unit and immediately notice a dangling wire. The wire is white and had separated from the wiring harness where the harness connects to the motor switch. A friend suggested I check lid switch and pump. Bypassed the lid switch with no result and checked the pump that I had replaced a few months ago but no noticeable problem there. I then reconnected the broken wire to the wiring harness and plugged back into motor switch. Filled tub and this time the unit hummed but went no further. Over the weekend I picked up a used motor (part number 8529935) with moter switch from a local used appliance dealer but have gone no further.

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the model number of your unit?

Posted on Nov 01, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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mohammed387
  • 1952 Answers

SOURCE: washer will not drain water or go into rinse and spin cycle

First thin I would try is to check your thermal fuse for continuity. Its located on the tunnel that incases the heasting element.

Try putting the machine into diagnostic mode. If it won't enter diagnostic mode, then you need to replace the main control board.

You also want to check the drain hose, the end of the hose is tapperd and tends to collect lint. Run a coat hanger up the hose and see if you can fish something out also check that belt.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

JR JR
  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: Washer stopped filled with water, smells like burnt plastic

REPL/ PUMP BURNT PALSTIC SMELL ,AND RUBBER SMELL, ONCE REPL./ SHOULD FIX

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 512 Answers

SOURCE: GE washer no main motor run so no agitate or spin

This is the electronic washer. Unplug for two minutes, plugin then open and close lid 7 times. This will reset motor. Also make sure belt is not broken.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

dh1200s
  • 335 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin

Hey Cameron,
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;

The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.

Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.

I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079

I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at dh1200s@yahoo.com. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

Testimonial: "Awesome help and advice -- thank you to everyone!"

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE spacesaver stack washer & dryer: The

the dryer won't heat up. everything else works. the drum goes around with clothes in it. it just won't heat up .

Posted on Jan 16, 2010

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Unit acts like it has received water then continues to cycle as if it hasn't, no water is pumped???


Symptom Check
Click on underlined items for further information Washer does not work and makes no noise Washer does not work but it does make noise No water is entering the wash tub
- or no hot water
- or no cold water The water fills the wash tub too slowly The tub does not fill with enough water
  • Test the water level switch
  • Check that the drain hose is positioned roughly as high as the top of the inner tub
The water overflows the wash tub Water drains out during the wash or rinse cycle
  • Check the drain control lever
  • Test the drain control coils
  • Check the cam bar
  • Test the timer control
Wrong temperature of water is used
  • Water supply hoses may be reversed
  • Hot or cold water supply valve may be turned off
  • Water supply hose may be kinked
  • Check water inlet valve
Water drains out while it is filling
  • Check the drain hose, it should be at least as high as the top of the wash tub, about 38 inches.
  • The drain hose must sit loosely in the house drain. Do not seal the air gap around the drain hose or a siphon will occur.
  • Check the drain control lever
  • Test the drain control coils
  • Check the cam bar
Water drips into the wash tub when the washer is off Water does not drain out of the wash tub Water is leaking onto the ground
  • Inspect the water supply connections
  • Inspect the drain hose
  • Inspect the water pump
  • Inspect outer tub for cracks or corrosion
  • Inspect the tub seal
  • Inspect the tub bearing
Agitator does not move Agitator movement is weak or moves in only one direction
  • Inspect the agitator
  • Inspect the motor coupler
  • Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
  • Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
  • Test the motor
  • Inspect the pulley
  • Test the transmission
  • Inspect the pump coupling
Drum does not spin
  • Test the lid switch
  • Test the timer control
  • Test the centrifugal switch
  • Test the water level switch
  • Inspect the motor coupler
  • Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
  • Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
  • Test the motor
  • Inspect the pulley
  • Test the transmission
Clothes are too wet after spin cycle This may be a spin problem or a drain problem
Drain:
  • Make sure the drain line is clear
  • Check the drain hose for a partial blockage
  • Inspect the water pump
Spin:
  • Test the lid switch
  • Test the timer control
  • Test the centrifugal switch
  • Test the water level switch
  • Inspect the motor coupler
  • Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
  • Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
  • Test the motor
  • Inspect the pulley
  • Test the transmission
Cycle does not advance
  • If the washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer does not advance, the timer probably needs to be replaced
  • If the timer does not advance while the washer is in a spin cycle, the timer probably needs to be replaced
  • If the timer does not advance during the rinse cycle, check whether water has filled the tub, if not, it is likely cold water related. Check the cold water supply valve, check the supply hose for kinks, check the filter screen and check the water inlet valve
Burning or electrical smell
  • Unplug the washer
  • Locate the source of the odor then read the instructions in the related section
Foul or stale odor coming from washer or clothes
  • Check that the drain line is clear
  • Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages
  • Check pump for blockages
  • Check for build up of soap in the outer tub
  • Check for article of clothing stuck in the outer tub
Noisy or vibrates too much
  • General tips
  • Balance the load
  • Level the machine
  • Inspect the water pump for a blockage
  • Inspect the coupling
  • Inspect the transmission
  • Adjust the drive belt tension
  • Check the motor bearings
  • Check the drum brakes
Goes out of balance too often Clothing is damaged
  • Inspect agitator for cracks or rough spots
  • Inspect for rust spots

Jul 11, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My GE washer G153 was making a loud noise when draining/spinning out. Next load filled up with water and done nothing else. Now machine turns on but will do nothing.


have an electrician check out the agitator control module. This unit controls the agitation action of the machine and gets power when the tub fills to the desired level and switches over.

Aug 17, 2013 | GE Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore model 23832100 washer will not spin in rinse cycle kenmore model 23832100 washer fills, agitates, and drains, but will not spin. Makes noise after draining. BUT if I manually turn off the machine...


Check door switch: If the lid switch is bad it will not drain or spin. Try this test: With lid open let it finish wash cycle. Press lid switch down with screwdriver. Washer should begin draining. Release switch. Motor should stop. Press switch a second time. Washer should start spinning as it continues to drain. If motor doesn't come on while lid switch is pressed, replace the switch. OR
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q942xn_2VXY

Mar 30, 2013 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The machine fills and will not start agitating unless the lid is open and closed several times.


The most likely failure is the water level pressure switch or a failed lid switch. If the washer will drain and spin then it's not a failed lid switch. If it will not drain and spin the likely failure is the lid switch.

The water level switch (pressure switch) has 3 wires attached to it, V (violet), P (Pink) and a T (tan) wire. When the tub is empty of water, contact V&P are closed to allow the tub to fill with water. Once the water level reaches the desired setting, contact V&P opens and then contact V&T closes to start the motor agitating. So, with this said if you were to unplug the washer and remove the wires from the water level pressure switch and test to see if terminals V&T is closing by using an ohm meter would indicate if the contact is closed or not.

Jan 12, 2011 | Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Water runs but doesn't fill tub and wont spin if put on spin cycl


The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

Jan 09, 2010 | GE WBSE2090A Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer drains then spins then fills again and drains but no spin


Try this, unplug washer for two minutes, plug back in, open and close lid seven times slowly, this will reset the computer and the electronic motor. Also on water level switch, make sure hose from switch to tub is not plugged, blow it out, gets clogged with soap.

Sep 09, 2009 | GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 80 Series Overflow


We've now had this happen three times and the exact same thing caused it all three times.

If the water level selector knob hasn't "clicked" into one of the given load levels on the control panel(i.e. the knob is in between levels) it will continue to fill until you discover water everywhere and turn the knob until it "clicks" into a level.

As far as I know, it has nothing to do with loose hoses or bad switches, it's bad design. There seems to be no safety mechanism to turn off the water if you over- or under-shoot the desired water level.

Apr 29, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Amana washer model LW6501W2 leaks in front during fill up


It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Apr 01, 2009 | Amana NAV8805EWW 3.3 Cu. Ft. Elustra Tub...

1 Answer

Washer wont agitate.


Hose must fit tight on switch and tub connection-make sure it has no defects in it. If machine fully drained then did not get to correct water level when restarted then water level switch is bad. Please contact me if you need further help or leave feedback if appropriate as that is how I get paid. Thanks for letting me help you!

Nov 30, 2008 | GE WSM2700W Unitized Spacemaker Washer and...

3 Answers

Kenmore Elite Washing Machine leaking water


Okay...my experience with this model front loader leads to the following possible problems:

CAUTION: UNPLUG the washer if you plan to service the interior. It is dangerous to have your hands inside the unit with moving parts and energized. Plug the washer back in and stand back if you plan on doing any operation checks.

1. Door bellow ripped or torn (this is the gray rubber boot around the door - open the door and inspect along the entire door boot. Including the areas behind the rubber fold where the rubber meets the wash tub. It is common for them wear out and tear. NOTE: Make sure the fill hose on the left-hand side of the door boot is fully snug in place. Sometimes it will come loose and leak BEHIND the door boot.

2. Drain pump or hoses leaking - You will need to remove the lower panel under the door to see inside the washer. Remove the three torx type screws under the front lip at the bottom of the panel. For easier access, place a small block of wood under each front foot. The washer is heavy so you may need assistance to lift the front slightly. CAUTION: Do not lift on the door, push on the door panel or control panel. If the panel sticks, slightly tap on the sides and it will drop down and come off. The pump is located in the front under the wash tub. Make sure the clean out trap is snug and all your hoses are tight and not torn. Check the drain hose that leads out of the back of the washer from the drain pump to ensure it is not cracked.

3. Air Dome hose has come loose from the tub - This will be a small rubber hose connected to a plastic piece (called an air dome) on the right-hand side of the wash tub as you are looking in from where you removed the bottom panel. It should be located behind the drain pump and mounted physically to the wash tub. The other end of this hose runs to the pressure switch, which turns the water flow off when the washer tub fills to the approriate level. If this hose comes off, the washer will start to leak on the FILL cycle and will not shut off. I don't think this is what you are talking about, but it is still worth a look since you have the panel opened.

4. Tub seal leaking or tub cracked - These would be the most undesirable of all possible problems because it would require the removal of the entire wash tub in order to correct. Inspect the wash tub seam and make sure there's no water coming from around the tub.

I hope this gives you a few possible items to work with. Inpsect the washer interior when you get the panel off and post back if you can determine where the leak is coming from.

HELPFUL HINT: Put the washer into diagnostics mode if you plan to leak test. At the control panel select DRAIN/SPIN, NO SPIN and press any key under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the SAME key, however). "C00" will be displayed on the operator console, and you will hear the door latch engage. The washer will run through a series of tests by filling using hot and cold water, checks all your dispenser features, tumbles the drum, spins and drains. This diagnostics can be stopped at any time by pressing the PAUSE/CANCEL button twice. The drain pump will come on and drain the washer.

I hope this helps you...

Feb 20, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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