Question about Frigidaire Washing Machines
Push button start button assembly is broken, need to remove front panel
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Un plug it. There should be small screws either at the bottom of the panel on the front or there is separate panel that comes off the top back. If the back is one solid piece top to bottom, then the control panel lifts out and hinges up when the two small cross tip screws are removed from the bottom outside corners of the control panel..
Posted on Feb 10, 2008
I've got same problem, with the door stuck shut, door lock NOT on, water trapped in the machine, and still no solution. 8 pages of messages and no solution.
Posted on Mar 14, 2008
I believe the selector knob on a Whirpool just has to be turned counter-clockwise with the selector pushed in. It will spin off the shaft and then the outer indicator dial will pull off. The shaft also has a keyed slot that will only allow the dial to be removed and installed one way, so there should be no question as to how it goes back on.
Was there a reason as to why you are removing the washer selector knob? If this is a simple matter of replacing a broken water temperature selector, you shouldn't have to remove any of the control knobs to gain access to the selector. The entire front panel comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. That way you can access the broken selector from behind the front panel much easier. Just remove the panel right above the washer top (under the dryer) and it should expose the front panel mounting screws. Remove these screws and the front panel comes off. Just make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on Apr 22, 2008
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
This is a general remedy for most Whirlpool made front-load machines, such as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana etc. The "Sd" or "F2" is the same as F21 on most Whirlpool washer's and indicates the machine has detected too much soap or a obstruction in the drain process.
Chances are the pump itself is being obstructed by debris or some other foreign object as opposed to being faulty, although the faulty pump can`t be ruled out...yet.
**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**
1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.
2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet ) 3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter.
4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to verify the unit drains and spins now.
( If the problem still exist`s the Sd or "F2" or "F21" will re-appear. If so you`ll need to check the hose/rubber bellows from pump to tub...back-flow ball...for other obstructions ).
5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...pat yourself on the back. You just saved yourself potentially a couple hundred bucks !
Now You should be good to go. Re-attach the lower panel and you`re back in business.
**NOTE: if this still fails to remedy the Sd, F2, F21 or if it returns immediately during the next drain you may require a pump unfortunately...part # 280187 available at "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" etc.
**This however can also be caused by the back-flow ball inside the bellows which connects the tub to the pump. There is a large clamp which secures it to the tub, but if you remove it to clean out all the dirt built up inside, make sure you get it good and secure when putting it back.**
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Posted on Oct 18, 2011
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