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Fisher-Paykel washer pump noise & some water left in tub

Hello, I have a Fisher-Paykel washer. It make a loud noise during different phases of the washing cycle. I took the tub out to see if there was anything blocking the pump inlet, but it was clear. There was about a gallon of water in the bottom. I don't know if this is normal or not. When I put it into the diagnostic mode with the tub out and ran the pump. I put some more water in there. The pump came on, it pumped out the water, when almost all the water was out of it is when it started making the loud noise. This is the same noise it makes when running a load of clothes. I tested the recirculation port to see if that worked ok. It sent out all kinds of water.
The washer seems to work ok other then the loud noise the pump is making. I spun the pump motor by hand to see if it was locking up. I could spin it easy, but it seemed a little rough and loud when spinning it by hand. Mabe it's because I took all of the water out. I checked the line coming out of the pump to see if it was stopped up. It was clear.
What next? Do I shoot it? Thanks for your time, Skip Pico

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  • Anonymous Jan 11, 2009

    mine does the same thing. replaced the pump and it was quiet for about 6 mounths and now it is acting up again. the pump is kind of pricy to replace twice a year. on the plus side the pump is very easy to replace.

  • Barb in Minn Jan 11, 2009

    I've noticed a loud, whining sound during various parts of the wash cycle. It starts within a minute of starting the washer -- once there is a couple inches of water in the tub -- and occurs later as well. I'm assuming it's something with the water pump. Wondering if noise is a problem that needs to be fixed before something breaks or if it's annoying but not a real problem.

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Lube the brass bearings on the motor. For some reason the bearing on the bottom nearest to the cooling fan will start to whine. I would guess because it's kicking dust up around the unit. I used a lube that will hold in place. Lube between the bracket that holds the motor together and by the fan. The noise should stop. I also suggest you lube the top bearing as well. The lube I recommend is a Silicone paste type.

Posted on Jan 15, 2010

  • spreadeagle Jan 24, 2014

    I was having the same problem, so I lubed the motor as described above. Problem solved! (At least for now) Thanks!

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blueextc3221
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SOURCE: changing inlet valve

If you suspect you have a defective Water Inlet valve (also known as a FILL valve or MIXING valve) it can easily be diagnosed by performing the following steps:

- First, make sure the water taps are turned on all the way, and the fill hoses are not kinked in anyway. If everything checks okay, proceed to the next step.
- Now, turn the water taps off, disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer and place them in the wash tub. Turn the taps back on and make sure you have proper and forceful water flow (minimum water pressure should be 10-25PSI).
- Check the sediment screens on the Water Inlet valve on the back of the washer. Sometimes these screens will clog with rust or sediment and prevent water flow. Cleaning with some distilled vinegar works well.

If you've attempted all the steps above, but still have no luck, more than likely the inlet valve is bad and requires replacement. Please, read all instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a simple repair that any "Do-It-Yourselfer" can accomplish. Follow the steps provided:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. The inlet valve is located on the back panel with two or more sets of electrical connectors attached to it. The connectors are usually color-coded to indicate which valve is HOT and which valve is COLD (In the case of a Mixing Valve, you may have additional electrical connectors). Remove the connectors and check the contacts for corrosion. Sometimes a good cleaning can restore a valve solenoid to working order. (You may want to label the connectors, if necessary, to ensure you know how they go back on).

8. Disconnect the small rubber water hose(s) attached to valve with a pair of pliers to release the hose clamps. Inspect the hose(s) for any evidence of cracking.

9. With the water hose(s) removed, loosen the mounting screw(s) and the inlet valve comes off.

10. Re-install new inlet valve following these steps in reverse order. Pay careful attention to make sure you correctly connect the HOT & COLD electrical connections (RED is usually the HOT water side). Make sure all hoses are fitted back in place and the hose clamps are snug.

11. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

12. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

13. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

14. Reinstall console.


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Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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