Question about Washing Machines
This washer is supposed to be smart enough to tell us what it thinks is wrong. Before taking anything apart or calling service I suggest you try and run a diagnostic test cycle. If the test fails then an error code should be displayed. Here is a link to the complete service manual. Go to 6-1 for the diagnostic test. Keep me posted!
This washer is supposed to be smart enough to tell us what it thinks is wrong.
Before taking anything apart or calling service I suggest you try and run a diagnostic test cycle. If the test fails then an error code should be displayed.
Here is a link to the complete service manual. Go to 6-1 for the diagnostic test. Keep me posted!
Posted on Nov 01, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the lid switch. Most washing machines will exhibit the issues you are talking about with this condition. Magnetic switches go out all the time. Too bad, the mechanical type is much mode durable. You can check it a number of ways.. Jump the leads and see if it spins, check your owners manual for a 'test cycle' pull the switch out and visually inspect it (quite often they are clear plastic on the back side), place a magnet over the switch and check continuity on its leads.
Posted on Aug 02, 2007
The motor coupling has broke , it is a small plastic rubber piece you can see under the unit that connects the motor to the gear case. very common problem about $120.00-150.00 to have repaired or $20.00 or so for you to replace. they are not simple but not to difficult to do.
Let me know if I can help or answer any other questions.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
broken coupler. device between motor and gearcase, look under washer behind the motor for small plastic and rubber coupler. may be worn or broken. cheap part/fairly simple fix. parts house will run ou through the process or i can provide details when you are ready.
Posted on May 25, 2009
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupler that is more resilient and should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria. Let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: There are other problems that can cause the washer symptoms as you describe, but the motor coupling is the least expensive and easiest solution to try first. If the motor coupling is still intact, please let me know.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
We are trying to by-pass the lid swithc in our Whirlpool top loading washer. There are 2 gray wires capped together and one drker gray & red wire capped together. Which wires do we use to by pass the swith?
Posted on Mar 06, 2010
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