Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
It agitate but dose'nt spin or drain you can hear like a buzzing sound, it stops when the cycle is over
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is the symptom of a defective lid switch. If you do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound when opening or closing the washer lid, more than likely the switch is broken or not making contact. Depending on what type of switch you have depends on how it is activated. Most washers have a switch located on the right-hand side of the lid with a slot. A plunger on the lid activates the switch when it closes. Make sure the switch is not loose (two mounting screws on the rim of the lid opening) or the plunger is not broken off. On some models, the lid switch is located on the left-hand side in the rear under the rim of the lid. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes this rod can be adjusted by bending it slightly. If you check everything and determine the switch is bad, it can be replaced by performing the following steps:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up.
Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments. A new lid switch should cost about $35.
Posted on Feb 05, 2008
This problem, or some variation thereof evidently is very common with these Whirlpool Washers! I have same problem. So far, best I have found is at
diagnosis by someone who knows. What William Burk says there makes sense. However, to get to the drive block there's quite a bit of disassembly required. I am stopped because I cannot get the spanner nut off. Hope this gives you some help toward finding a more comprehensive answer
Posted on Jul 05, 2008
Hello, your problem is going to be with the lids switch, in this machine it is going to be a magnetic contact. You can confirm this my pulling the front panel off and accessing the wireing to the lids switch, If you have electrical knowledge bypass the lid switch using a wire nut and run the machine. If all is ok make sure you relpace the lid switch since it is there for a reason. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Good Luck!!!
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
SOURCE: 22432 won't spin or drain
CHECK THE LID SWITCH THE PART THAT PUSHES THE SWITCH DOWN MAY BE WORN ENOUGH TO CAUSE THIS PROBLEM. WITH THE LID OPEN START THE WASHER IN THE SPIN CYCLE AND PUSH THE SWITCH WITH A POPSICKEL STICK AND SEE IF THIS PROBLEM STILL HAPPENS
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Three possibilities: since you can hear the motor (Ranging from easiest to messiest) None of the suggestions are very expensive.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the
transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:
Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.
See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.
You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.
Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.
Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.
See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.
If the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".
See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and
noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2"
socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds
15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams and spin gear.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit or spin gear, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Aug 14, 2010
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