Question about Kenmore 46133 Stainless Steel Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

Open Question

Kenmore Gas Range Model #362.7556191

I moved the dook lock latch to the locked position while the oven was on Bake. According to the manual, by moving the door lock latch to the locked position, the oven will "lock" itself. I ran the Clean cycle twice trying to see if this would "unlock" the Bake, Time Bake, and Broil setting with no luck. Is there a methold to "unlocking" the other settings?

Thanks,
Tigerlily

Posted by on

5 Suggested Answers

Amigaman
  • 248 Answers

SOURCE: broil element will not work

You need to check the oven sensor. It should be about 11k ohms. This is the metal rod in the back top of oven cavity. Access it from the rear. UNPLUG POWER FIRST!!

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

  • 213 Answers

SOURCE: error F5 on a kenmore electric range Model 911-469-8812

f-5 stands for faulty oven control called the EOC youll have to replace the control to fix problem

Posted on Nov 21, 2007

  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: Oven will not bake or broil

bann...why did you replace the element? It is possible that the relay or the control circuit were the problems and still are. The hi limit switch is a temperature 'box' which is designed to open the circuit in case of overheating. Rarely a problem. First, these units are 3 wire units. That means 220 volts ... two breakers. They may be part of a linked unit or separate. Turn them BOTH off and then on. Do all of your burners heat properly on high? If you have a voltage tester, you can test to see if the voltage is there. Unplug the unit. The vertical slot is neutral. Each of the other slots with the neutral should light the tester. If not, your problem is outside the stove.

Posted on Dec 12, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Oven will not heat past 220 degrees

Check your bake element, I had the exact same problem and found the bake element had burned in half. The broil element comes on during preheat and kicks off at around 220 degrees.

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

duby1990
  • 367 Answers

SOURCE: I have a frigidaire gallery stove. The bake not working

Your oven ignitor has gone out. This is located under the pan in the bottom of the oven. This is held in with 2 screws in the back portion of the pan. This will expose the ignitor and then 2 screws take it out. Replace this and this will fix it. very common problem

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Oven latch will not open


Sometimes the latch arm is bent causing the latch release not to clear the hook on the door. If the arm goes under the front it is probably bent. Carefully pull the arm back toward the locked position and try to bend it back a small amount and see if the door will open after moving the arm back to the open position. If that fails sometimes you can insert a bent coat hanger between the door and the latch hook and move the latch enough to unlock the door. I hope this helps

Nov 28, 2013 | Ovens

1 Answer

How to start oven in PROPANE STOVE


Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

Sep 04, 2009 | Frigidaire 30 in. Electric Gallery Series...

1 Answer

Whirlpool self cleaning oven Accubake. 2 yr old


Hi

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.

Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Jul 06, 2009 | Whirlpool 30 in. RC8700 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Cleaning over but lock light will not goff and i can not open my oven


The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.

May 20, 2009 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

LED says "Locked" can't turn on stove. How do you unlock it?


The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.

May 16, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Self-cleaning oven door won't open


The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.

May 15, 2009 | Ovens

2 Answers

I accidently pressed self clean instead of boil on my oven


Hi

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.
Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
*On -some- Frigidaire built ranges, the switch is located behind the right hand side panel and activated by the right hand door hinge. On this model, the side panel may need to be removed to access a malfunctioning door switch.


Please do rate the solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Apr 27, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

I have an old(over 20 nyears) free standing magic chef model No. 177-31DB2 range. I put it on the cleaning cycle and everything seemed to be working well. But then it seemed like there was alot of smoke so...


WHEN THE DOOR IS LOCKED ON A SELF-CLEANING RANGE, AND THE TEMP GETS ABOVE 400 DEGREES, IT LOCKS THE LATCHING ASSEMBLY SO YOU CAN'T OPEN THE DOOR AND GET SCORCHED. IF YOU FORCED THE HANDLE TO TRY TO OPEN IT, YOU BENT THE ARM OF THE LATCHING ASSEMBLY. IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE LATCH,
ONLY IF YOU FORCED IT TO THE OPEN POSITION, YOU MUST FORCE IT BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION TO STRAIGHTEN THE ARM.THEN IT MIGHT RELEASE.

IF YOUR RANGE HAS A LOCK BUTTON THAT NEEDS TO BE
PRESSED TO SLIDE THE LATCH TO THE LOCK POSITION,
YOU WILL HAVE TO SET ALL CONTROLS BACK INTO THE CLEAN POSITION AND PRESS THE LOCK BUTTON TO RELEASE THE LOCK ON THE LATCH ASSEMBLY. YOU SHOULD HEAR A BUZZING OR HUMMING SOUND WHEN THE BUTTON IS PRESSED.

Mar 31, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

Not finding what you are looking for?
Kenmore 46133 Stainless Steel Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range Logo

Related Topics:

168 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Kitchen Ranges Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8205 Answers

Cindy Wells

Level 3 Expert

4952 Answers

Mike Carew

Level 3 Expert

969 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Kitchen Range Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...