Question about Hardware & Accessories
TL21 is aka WH21 timer rated 23 amps SPST.
Copy following links to identify timer, and replacement parts, and see wiring illustration:
Posted on Nov 01, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It should be on the door. It's marked 'line' & 'load'. Line is un-switched coming in and 'load' is your output to your motor or whatever you're running.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
john, i'm assuming the water heater is 240 volts and the timer is 240 volts, if ok follow these instructions. the 2 wires coming from the breaker box goes on 1 & 3 screws, also each yellow wire going to the timer motor goes on 1 & 3. now the 2 wires going to the water heater goes on 2 & 4. be sure to ground the timer box
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
You are placing a pretty tall order here. You want someone to go to a timer that is wired - take a picture of it, transfer it somehow to the computer then attach it here somehow and or draw a diagram ... and for what benefit???? There is a schematic on the door of the switch, at least the dozen or so that I maintain anyway.
There are three termnals in the switch, a common for a white, a hot black and a switched black.
The "line" is the hot black and a white. Your load (white can come to the line white if you want but it is not necessary) a black wire that goes to your light or motor or what ever you are turning on.
If this is a two pole switch (220 V AC) please indicate in your question/response.
If I have misunderstood your question, pleae ask again.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Tork 1103
I assume this is the wiring diagram you have for your timer. I don't know what you're trying to control with this timer, but it has a 110V timer motor so it must have a neutral conductor connected. The L terminal would be your incoming line conductor (hot, usually black) The X terminal would be your Load terminal (usually black too) The unmarked terminal would be your neutral conductor. The incoming and outgoing neutral conductor would be connected here (usually white) If you're using this for 220V load, the hot conductor would be connected to the terminal marked 1 and it's load connected to the 2 terminal. Or you could use it for two separate circuits
Posted on Aug 13, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you for your prompt advice. I am a novice electrician and your explanation helped to clarify the schematic."
Add a comment and say what voltage you are working with and what you are controlling with timer. Example wiring:
ET70215C timer is a 2-channel timer that can be wired MANY different ways, to control multiple voltages in different ways.
Each channel can be programmed separately to control 2 different loads with different schedules for each load.
Clock terminals are 1 and 2, and default clock voltage is 120Volts, but can be set for 208, 240 or 277Volts.
The switching terminals 3 4 5 6 7 8 are 'dry.' Max load rating is 20 amps per terminal
Dry terminals receive no power when voltage is applied to clock terminals 1 and 2.
This lets you to have 120Volt clock, but control 240Volt circuit with one of the channels, and 24volt with other channel.
Or you can jumper from the clock terminals and put power to terminals 3 and 6 as shown in illustration above.
The timer ALSO has NO and NC terminals that reverse the circuit each time the program turns the switch on-and-off. So when timer program is OFF then power travels from terminal 3 to terminal 5. When program is ON, power travels from terminal 3 to terminal 4.
Posted on Oct 01, 2011
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