Question about Yamaha DSP-AX1 10-Channel Amplifier
On start the sound of the LEFT MAIN cannel is missing in all modes and on A&B pair of speakers. After puting the volume to the max., the sound appears. Could this be due to aged capacitor or what? Any suggestions or experience on such problem?
The fact that sound appears at max volume means that it is getting past and through the pre-amp stage. So it would appear to be in the main power amp stage the problem. It would depend what drives the channel, but if it's transistor driven I would suspect one of them.
Posted on Mar 04, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Posted on Jul 29, 2008
SOURCE: Yamaha dsp-A1000 5 ch Amp
if you wanted to use your receiver as your controller and source then try to find out the receivber has got a bridge (jumper) between the pre-amp stage and the power amp stage. if your receiver does not have that, then you can just connect your receiver tape record out to one of your DSP inputs. subwoofers, the DSP has got a sub woofer out connector. you can use that (RCA type) to your sub woofers. put in series because DSP has got only one output for sub. or, you can connect your subs directly to the mains speakers, parallel connections. maybe one sub to your left and the other to your right channel.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
The easiest way is to buy the new part online and replace it - cost about $50US.
However, if you're up to it, this problem is fixable without the need to buy any parts. The selector switch has four sets of spring contacts which need to be bent slightly to increase the pressure on the pads against which they press, but it's a tedious job and not for the faint-hearted.
Here's what you need to do:
Open the case (6 screws) and also free up the front panel (9 screws).
You'll see that the switch consists of a PCB, an aluminium box and a motor. Remove the two screws holding it to the front bulkhead. take oyr the small "L" shaped circuit board that overlays it. A plastic pop-in holds the bottom of the switch PCB and the switch assembly can then be removed entirely.
Next you will need to remove the aluminium switch box from the PCB. Firstly de-solder all the connections which hold it in place. Now pull it clear.
Here is the MOST critical part of the job: inside the switch box you'll see four circular plastic wafers - these contain the contacts you need to fix and you'll need to bend the tangs which hold the shaft assembly onto the housing and then the tags which are holding the wafers in place. Your difficulty will be making sure that the wafers go back on the shaft with the rightr alignment and that the wafers go back in the same order.
Take some digital pictures while the wafers are still on the shaft with the orientation of the KNOB included - if you mess this up (I did) the job becomes horrible! Also, mark each wafer with a number 1-4 because there are three different kinds Once you are comfortable that you can replace the wafers in the proper rotary configration with respect to the shaft, remove them individually and pop out the gray plastic cores and bend the spring contacts upwards so that they will go back pressing more firmly against the pads. Now reassemble, and good luck!
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
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