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Re: microwave toaster combo
F1 usually means a shorted keypad or a problem with the control circuit board.
A bad keypad may be worn out due to age, damaged, or it may have gotten wet or otherwise contaminated.
Moisture and contamination can be caused by not using the fan when boiling on the stove top (for over the range models), direct spraying of cleaners, by storing the microwave in an unheated garage or shed, or infestation.
I warn my customers to never spray cleaner directly onto the microwave keypad, since the liquid can get inside and "lock up" or even ruin the keypad or controller.
Apply an alcohol-based cleaner (such as the purple kind) to a cloth (since paper towels can scratch) and gently wipe it off.
I suggest to my customers that they NEVER use any ammonia-based cleaner (like the blue stuff) on a microwave, since the ammonia will crack and distort polycarbonate plastics.
You may have to contact LG support to see what that error code is and to find a local servicer:
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I have a Kitchen Aid Model # KEMS308SSS02 and I getting the follow error message... is working and was always working but the top microwave/oven does not work. ...Kitchen Aid Oven Model # KEMS308SSS02 error msg - Lost Err/ F6 E0/ ... Most "F6/E0" fault codes is usually because of a loose wire connections, loss of ...
When microwaves first got popular I used to be a helper with my next door neighbor who fixed them. I does sound like you should have covered it with those switches. If you close the door very slowly, pulling back on the door see if you can hear all 3 switches clicking. You should be able to hear them easily. If you only hear the first 2 try pushing on the door to hear the 3rd. If it will click with pressure on the corners or in the middle then you door is tweaked, possibly from pulling on the door hard to open it or smacking into something on the edge. If you can hear all 3 switches and it still wont start then its going to be the sensor that receives the signal from the switches. I'm not sure how accessible those are on today's models since they make them as disposables now, back then they cost around $500 so they were serviced.
If you are handy take it apart. Somewhere inside is a small switch that the door activates. Switch might be broken or a small plastic actuator might be broken. What do you have to lose at this point except time?
It sounds like a problem with the inverter, control unit (circuit board) or high voltage transformer.
I would recommend first that you (or a servicer or electrician) measure the actual line voltage at the outlet. It may be too low, or you may have a tarnished breaker or bad connection between the breaker and the outlet.
Then try something like a toaster or toaster oven in that outlet and see if it toasts bread properly. Toasters consume a lot of current, so they are good load testers for outlets. Another good test is a hair dryer.
Due to the lethal voltages involved, I do not recommend that a person without training and experience ever work on these models.
You should be able to locate a Panasonic-authorized servicer here:
I would mention the exact symptom when you call so the technician can bring a new inverter with him when he comes out to repair it. Might save you having it pulled into the shop.
Also, you can save about $50 by removing it from the wall and taking it to the shop. It's really a two-person job for safety's sake, and having the original installation info helps a lot.
If you still have questions, please feel free to follow up. I appreciate your thoughtful ratings to my reply.