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My washing machine leaks when filling up and stops when agitating

Inglis Super Capacity Plus washing machine leaks at front at the beginning of a load then it stops. It just started doing this 2 wks ago.

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1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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1 Answer

I have kenmore 80 series heavy duty/ super capacity plus washer that after it fills with water,hot or cold and it starts the wash cycle, I noticed that the agitator only moves once in awhile and stops


hum either a bad timer sticking the point contacts close. have u tried this in all cycles? and possibly a motor with bad windings not enough power to run agitation? try running in mild or gentle and see what happens? I was tempted to say the cam dogs in agitator but they dont work then stop then work, when they go out they go out.

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If it's leaking during the agitation cycle, and only in 'large' and 'super' water levels, then that's just the way the washer is designed. I got rid of that piece of junk.

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I have a Whirlpool Heavy Duty-Super Capacity Plus, 7cycle/2 speed. Model LSR7200EQO , the agitator stopped working


My whirlpool heavy duty 2 speed 7 cycle washer machine stopped working, It fills up and aggitates for the first cycle then when it should drain and spin it doesnt drain nor spin

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Washer had filled and agitated, but when went to spin produced a loud screeching noise. what might it be? this is an inglis front loader super capacity 2001.


It may be a a worn or broken drive belt.

OR

Some Whirlpool brands washing machines have a two piece agitator. The bottom is call the agitator and the top is usually referred to a 'Mover'. A multi-piece cam and bearing assembly connects the two and allows the top portion to index. If the bearing or cams become stripped or damaged, the mover will often not work and the cam parts will have to be replaced.

OR

It may be a bad motor.
Hope this helps.

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Not sure if manifold is leaking


Leaks water...check the pump first. The fill valve and hoses may be the next step. See how to take apart info. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.
 
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you have a broken drive coupling.
it probably wont agitate or spin, but will fill and drain.
you need to remove 2 screws from the control panel, hinge it back and then remove the 2 brass colored clips that hold the cabinet to the base. once you do then pull the entire cabinet forwards to a 45 degree angle and pull it off the base.
then pull the 2 clips off pump and then 2 more on the motor. that will allow you to get to the drive coupling. you will find it to be broken.
replace it with part number 285753a for about 15-20 bucks.

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1 Answer

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