Question about Whirlpool LXR6432JQ Top Load Washer

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Excessive lateral travel of tub in spin cycle

Whirlpool top load direct drive off balance load causes excessive lateral motion of the tub in spin cycle and sounds like it's going to beat itself to death. Actually had the problem on delivery when new. Tech fixed in 5 minutes ...a loose strap or something??

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  • singledad_43 Feb 16, 2009

    my whirlpool LXR6232EQ0 walks across the floor on spin cycle. The springs look good, it washes gr8, but the spin cycle is out of control. The basket tips to the rear right hand side, and the base is level. It makes the whole house shake. (What are the pins in the plastic tube for that are attached to the base? They look like sheer pins/ brass nail, with cotter pin holes at the pointed top, and flat on one side.)

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  • 311 Answers

There are springs that keep tub centered.also some small glides that can wear.most common prop.spring.most models can look thru bottem .the spring that fails most is towards the back,left rear,goes from washer to body.check that out God bless,tom

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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What will cause my Whirlpool washing machine to set on low speed spin cycle?


The machine uses automatic load sensors to balance the load and when you put something in the machine that is big, like a comforter, it knows that it cannot balance that item. So with a front loader it wont spin at high speed because it would be off balance and either damage the machine or the machine would "walk" because of the off balance motion.

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My Whirlpool Ultimate Care II washer goes thru all cycles but will not spin, so clothes are wet. We replaced the motor coupler but will only spin without clothes. Once you put clothes in the tub does


sounds like direct drive gears are bad.. there is a slip coupling that goes over the shaft of the transmission adn assist turning the tub that could be worn or broken. you will have to remove the agitator and check the nut on top of the tub to see if it is tight or to remove the nut and check that coupling.

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Started normal cycle then gets to drain and spin clothes are still wet


Hello there:
Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt, a worn clutch , or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. then retry ok

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Is some water in the tub of a top loading washer normal?


It is normal to have residual water in the drain lines and pump following a wash cycle. This is the low point of the drain cycle and gravity will ALWAYS cause some water to be there. As long as the water is not visible in the spin basket, you have nothing to worry about.

Some model washers also have a balance ring around the perimeter on top of the wash tub that is filled with fluid. This acts as a stabilizer to help keep the washer balanced during the spin cycle. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.

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Washing machine tub banging against the enclosure!!


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the pads has come loose or broken.

Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

If it's not the pads or agitate cams, you may have a bent or damaged drive tube.

See the Whirlpool PDF for commercial washers although the consumer models use the same basic parts.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf



Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

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