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GE Dryer runs but no heat

Took top and front off and also removed drum. Checked heating element ohms and they seem to be getting connectivity (first time ever doing this) I did notice quite a bit of lint on behind the silver plate in the drum which looked like it would be right where the coils would have been. Any suggestion or would cleaning this out been the solution. Don't want to put back together unless that did fix it. Thanks AP

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  • A Parks Nov 01, 2012

    Thansk Richard. Model # DBXR453ET5WW

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Nov 01, 2012

    First, check the thermostat that is on the blower housing for continuity. If it is bad, here is the part to order.http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/clic... Please let me know if this is bad. This is our starting point.

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Nov 01, 2012

    This is usually the no heat problem.

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  • Dryers Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the model number of your unit?

Posted on Oct 31, 2012

  • A Parks Nov 01, 2012

    Thanks Richard. Model # is Model # DBXR453ET5WW

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it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

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alot of dryers have temp overload fuse

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SOURCE: Element heats, dryer tumbles, no heat in drum, never shuts off

Hi, If the dryer heats but will not advance in either time or auto cycles, you need to change the timer.
You can test to see if the timer is getting voltage. Remove the top rear panel and locate the two wires going to the timer motor. There should be 120V when the dryer is running in time dry.
Please let me know if this helps or if I can assist you further.

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Posted on May 27, 2009

Jahn27
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SOURCE: No heat in a Profile

The thermistor at the back of the dryer is the inlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 2270 ohm at room temperature, not zero. A zero resistance means the inlet thermistor is shorted and the control board sees it as an overheating condition and does not activate the heater relay. Replace the inlet thermistor with part number WE04X10111.

The thermistor on the blower housing is the outlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 10000 ohm at room temperature. The heating is good at 17 ohms and inlet safety thermostat and the high-limit thermostat on the heater housing and the outlet safety thermostat on the blower housing must all have continuity.

You don't have to accept or reject this post in order to add comment or information. But accepting the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Posted on Jul 22, 2011

heatman101
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SOURCE: My duet dryer wasn't heating,

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Posted on Aug 13, 2011

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1 Answer

Not heating, no fault codes, everything seems normal. Checked heat exchanger ok, flow switches ok, thermal reset ok just no power to the ceramic heating elements please help me ;-(


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!

Apr 28, 2015 | Dryers

Tip

How to Install the Heating Element of Maytag Amana Dryer?


The procedure is as follows:--- 1) First of all unplug the dryer from electric outlet for safety reasons.2) There are two panels in the dryer. One is top and other is front panel.3) Both the panels are secured by clips in between them.4) Take a putty knife and insert it in between the top panel and the front panel of the dryer. Press the retaining clips with knife and separate the top and front panel by Lifting up on one corner of the top panel to release the opposite retaining clip.5) After the clips are pressed both the panels will easily get separated. But take care there will be a connecting wires between the panels. You don’t have to pull that wire while separating the panels.6) You will see the door switch on the upper right side corner area of the front panel.7) Remove the wire harness from the door switch carefully.8) The remove the flange of the front panel to the side panel on each side by removing the screws.9) The front panel will get separated from dryer after removing the screws.10) Now with the help of screw driver remove the screws holding the drum bulkhead of the dryer.11) Now push the idler pulley between the drum and the motor assembly with you hand to loosen the belt tension.12) The belt will easily come out one you loosen the belt tension.13) After the belt is out. Carefully lift and remove the drum. Now on the lower rear side you will see the heating element.14) There are wires connecting on the sides of the heating element terminals. The wires are connected by removable connector.15) Remove the connector carefully from heating element with the help of needle nose plier.16) After the wires are removed from heating element’s terminals.Remove the screws holding the heating element.17) The heating will have to be moved a bit to come out easily. Before removing the heating element out.Please note down the position of old heating element. So while placing the new heating element you don’t face any problem.18) Remove the old heating element and insert the new heating element.19) Connect all the wires as it were connected before.20) Refit all the parts which you removed while removing the old heating element in reverse method. Take care you don’t miss any part fitting.
This will help. Thanks.

on Mar 20, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

How to install a heating element in the GE wall mount dryer


GE Dryer design (Most or almost)....

Heating element access is from the front.

1. Remove the Front Door
2. Remove the belt.
3. Remove the Drum.

You see the heating element. Very simple design

Apr 06, 2015 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs but does not got hot, therefore does not properly dry clothes. I checked the heater element and it is good. Any suggestions?


The Most common problem is a bad thermal fuse.

1 the thermal fuses are located in the cabinet of the dryer under the drum
they can also be located on the front of the blower wheel housing. on the back wall of the dryer or along the heating element can.
2. some kenmore, whirlpool machines have these fuses located in the rear of the machine.especially when the lint filter is located in the top of the dryer.
3. the heating element can also be bad.
4. if you have an ohm meter you can check the continuity of the thermal fuses,as well as the heating element.if there is no continuity on any of the above mentioned parts. Replace the faulty parts.

Jan 10, 2011 | GE WSM2420T Top Load Stacked Washer /...

1 Answer

Dryer no heating how do I get to the fuses and the heating elemet


using a wide flat screw driver pry the top up at the edges betwenn the main top and the front panel. Lay it down on it's back for this. Now look for your door switch wires and undo them. Now look inside the front panel toward the top and remove 2 attaching screws or hex screws. Lift panel at top and remove. Now undo 3 screws in middle of inside drum and pull drum out after un-doing belt. There you should find your heat element and all the thermostats and the thermal fuse should be labeled. If heat element is not broken then chances are your thermal fuse is bad replace it

Feb 28, 2009 | GE DVLR223 Dryers

2 Answers

Ge dryer won't heat and is starting to make a sqeaking sound when


The most likely cause for the dryer having stopped heating is the heating element has stopped working and probably needs to be replaced. The "chirping" you are hearing is probably the nylon bearing the drum runs on. This is located in the back of the machine and goes right along with the replacement of the heating element. To disasemble the machine, you will need to loosen the two phillips head screws located at the bottom corners of the control panel as you face the machine. You will then moz-screenshot.jpgneed to carefully pry up the top assembly so that it is free of the front door panel. This will allow you enough room to reach down inide the machine and remove the screws holding the door panel to the rest of the frame. You should know the drum will need to be supported once the door assembly is removed. I usually lay the machine on its back at this point and reach inside the drum to remove the 4 screws holding it in place. Once this is done, remove the drum and set it aside. At this point you will be able to see the heating element and the drum bearing. You will have to stand the machine back up right in order to remove the screws holding the bearing in place. Reassemble in reverse order. You can find sites that have drawings by searching the web for appliance parts.

Feb 22, 2009 | GE DBLR333EE Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer LER5656EZ3 no heat


If the heating element read 0 ohms with the wires removed, you have an open heating element, (should be around 10 ohms) replace heating element and you should be ready to rock.

Sep 13, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Help!!!


Further dissassembly is required. You'll want to do this anyway to inspect the heating elements. Some of what I say my not apply to your model (because you did not list a model number). 1. Disconnect power to dryer. 2. open door and remove screws going up into the dryer top. (two or four) Usually these are phillips screws, but you may find tri-wing phillips or T-15 torx. 3. swing top back, allowing access to remove the two screws holding the front panel to the side panels. (near the top) 5/16 hex or twin drive (phillips / #2 robertson square drive) 4. tilt front panel forward, lift off and swing to the side. You don't have to remove the door switch wires if you don't want to. 5. Pull drum forward a few inches. (it's a tight fit to get it past the dryer sides) 6. release dryer drive belt. 7. Finish removing the drum.
8. inspect coil heating elements. If one or both have a break in them, you can replace just the coils, you don't have to get the entire big metal part that holds them. 8. Clean and reassemble. (check the teflon rear drum sleeve bearing and the front drum support slides. now's the easiest time to replace them if needed.) 9. put the drum back in, then the belt back on by reaching your thin arms way back to the belt tensioning pulley. The grooved side of the belt touches the drum and goes down directly to the motor drive pulley on the left, then around the tensioning pulley. 10. Put front back on dryer. 11. turn drum by hand several revolutions to make sure the belt is not twisted or comes off. 11. Finish reassemble, connect power and test. You're done !

Aug 31, 2008 | GE Dryers

2 Answers

How to get to heating element on ge dryer


Most heating elements can be accessed by removing the back cover of the dryer. Please unplufg the dryer first before starting this project.

Oct 25, 2007 | GE DBXR463EBWW Electric Dryer

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