Question about Heating & Cooling
You need to lok up the code for that unit, propane requires a 100% safety pilot and also may have induced draft and proving devices as pressure switches, sail switches or centrifigual switches.
I would suspect a safety or proving device.
Posted on Oct 31, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
WW Granger is the biggest supplier I know of for dayton. Consult them for information and if its still available.
In lue of this find the oldest repair man you trust and ask him if he knowes anything about them. I know I could help if I could see what you have and had some more questions answered. Pilot ignition? Gas valve model? Does it have a regulator in the gas valve? Then you have to find a kit to block open the regulator. Then change the orfices to correct size or solder and redrill the old ones. Then maybe adjust the combustion air, and you may have to change the pilot burner orfice and adjust it.
After that you can fill the LP tank.
Hope this helps IF so please grade me accordingly and Good Luck.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
SOURCE: coleman furnace wont fire
Check inside the door panel next to the wiring schematic, you should find the diagnostic codes. Look up 7 blinks. This should narrow down the problem. ( It sounds like a bad hot surface ignitor).
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
3 blinks is a pressure switch error clear the hose going to the inducer housing you may need a paper clip to stick into the barb fitting on the motor housing
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
Testimonial: " I took off the tube and inserted a paperclip into both barbed ends. its works great now. You guys saved me at least $100 THANKS!!!!!!"
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
Your furnace has a diagnostic chart on the reverse of the lower panel incorporated in the wiring diagram. One blink tells you that it is a failure but wont tell you where to start looking.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
Usually when the furnace blower motor runs all the time
The limit switch or rollout switch is usually open or bad.
The furnace board is seeing that one of those switches is open, so it brings the blower on to try to get the heat out of the combustion chamber area, so the switch will close. But if the switch is bad and won’t close, the furnace board will keep the blower running continuously.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
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