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I have a 14 ft dump trailer. New solenoid on pump just clicks when i hit up or down switch. motor doesn't run.any way to test if motor is bad?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bbtoast
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SOURCE: 1981 Corvette will not start

The neutral safety switch is located in the shifter housing.

Here is a link to a good article on this topic, that would beat an explanation from me.

Brian

Yes, it sounds like the NSS is the culprit.

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

didik23
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SOURCE: '87 300ZX(NON-TURBO) STALLS OUT/BOOGS DOWN

overhaul of carb needed, check the vaccum advancer for wear n tear, rapace f necessary fo

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SOURCE: ice maker wont dump ice. it will refill with

need to replace the ice maker

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co7196
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SOURCE: water pump keeps on running my mastercraft jet

yOU NEED A FLOAT SWItch to have the pump work unattended. I have two new switches and no use for them, Where are you?

Posted on May 26, 2010

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SOURCE: My espresso machine doesn't heat

Hi
If it heats with the steam switch, its your brew thermostat. If it doesn't, its your heating element.

Posted on May 22, 2011

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1 Answer

Y need book for fuse box


Fuses are listed here
* = maxi fuse
1*=50A I/P fuse panel
2*=40A blower motor relay
3*= 50A 4 wheel ABS module
4*=20a Main light switch-Instrument cluster
5*=50A Ignition switch, starter relay
6*=20A Transfer case relay
7*= NOT USED
8*=20A Auto Ride Control Switch/on off switch
9*=40A Auto Ride Control relay
10*=30A PCM power relay
mini fuses
1=10A A/C relay
2=20A Aux power point
3= not used
4=15A Fog lamps-Daytime lamps
5=10A Air Bag diagnostic monitor
6=10A Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
7=30A 4WABS module
8=30A PCM relay
9=20A Fuel Pump relay and RAP module
10= 15A Horn relay
11=15A Park Lamp relay-Main Light Switch
12=30A Main light switch--Multi Function switch
13=15A Heated O2 sensors, EGR Vacuum Regulator, EVR solenoid,Camshaft position (CMP) Sensor,
Cannister Vent Solenoid, A4LD Auto Transmission
14=30A Generator-Voltage regulator
Interior fuse panel (mini fuses)
1=7.5A Power mirror switch
2=7.5A Blower motor relay,PAD module,Air Bag diagnostic monitor
3=7.5A Trailer tow connector
4=10A Left headlamp
5=10A Data link connector (DLC)
6=7.5A Air bag diagnostic monitor, Blower motor relay, Passive deactivation Module (PAD)
7=7.5A Trailer Tow connector
8=10A Right headlamp, Daytime running lamps (DRL) module, Foglight relay
9=7.5A Stop Lamp switch
10= 7.5A Speed control-amplifier assembly,Brake pressure switch, Generic electronoc Module (GEM)
Shift lock actuator, Blend door actuator, Main light switch, RABS resistor, A/C heater assembly
Flasher
11= 7.5A Instrument cluster, Main light switch, RABS resistor
12= 10A Power window relay, Washer pump relay
13= 20A Stop lamp switch, Brake pressure switch
14= 20A Rear Anti Lock Brake system (RABS) module
**10A 4WABS module**
15=7.5A Instrument cluster
16= 30A Windshield wiper Motor, Wiper Hi-lo relay, wiper run/park relay
17=7.5A Cig lighter
18=15A Drivers unlock relay-All unlock relay
19=25A PCM power diode
20=7.5A RAP module GEM module, Radio
21=15A Flasher (hazard)
22=20A Aux power socket
23=15A Turn signals
24===not used
25= 7.5A GEM module, Instrument cluster
26= 10A Battery saver relay, Electronic Shift relay, Interior lamp relay
Power window relay,Electronic shift control module, transmission control
27=15A Switch,DRL, Backup lamp switch, DTR sensor,Instrument illumination dimming control module
Dome/map lamp, GEM,electronic shift,Interior lights,Glove box lamp and switch
28=7.5A GEM module-Radio
29= 15A Radio
30=15A Park lamps, trailer Tow relay
31===not used
32=10A rear blower
33=15A Headlamps, DRL module, Instrument cluster
34=7.5A Rear integrated control panel, CD
35=10A RABS test connector
36=7.5A CD, rear integrated control panel, memory seat,

i copied this off another post hope this helps

Oct 09, 2016 | 2003 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

The dump box goes up, but then comes down before we can spread our load.


I'm guessing this is a power up, gravity down system (pump runs to raise the trailer, and doesn't when it's let down). Should be a check valve on the pressure side, and a solenoidal actuated return valve on the fluid dump side that lets fluid back into the tank from the hydraulic cylinder. It could be a bad check valve, or a bad seat in the return valve.

Aug 18, 2013 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Passlock bypass 2000 ykon denali


If you have power to the starter motor solenoid, yet it will not start, then replace the solenoid.
If the solenoid is clicking when you turn the key, but if it still doesn't crank, then change the starter motor.
The solenoid is on the top of the starter motor.

Nov 14, 2012 | 2000 GMC Yukon Denali

1 Answer

Blazer 1999 won't start got spark new fuel pump


Pull off one injector connector and use a test light or voltmeter to see if one wire has power with key on.
Power to the injectors is fed through the ignition switch, so with key on, you should have power there. The injector ground is inside the ECM. If you have power, you'll have to diagnose the circuit for why computer doesn't ground the circuit when it should.

Nov 06, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

1990 7.3 ford diesel wont shut down


You need to determine if the problem is in the ignition switch or the fuel shut off solenoid in the Injector pump. As you stand in front of the truck facing the engine, the wire that goes to the FRONT connector on the DRIVERS side top of the injector pump will be the shut off solenoid.

turn the key to "run" and then disconeect that wire, if it "clicks' then the problem is most likely the ignition switch. If it doesn't then run a jumper wire from the positive post of a bettery to the connection. If it clicks then the problem is the ignition switch, If it doesn't, then the solenoid has failed. the fuel shut off solenoid is available and not hard to change. Just be sure to pay attention to to the spring and how it is assembled. You can purchase the fuel shut off solenoid from mid west fuel injection, there may be other places but I know they have it. Ignition switch should be available form most any auot parts store.

Sep 18, 2011 | Ford Econoline Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Have a 7x14 bray dump trailer dumps 3/4's then runs out of fluid. to fully dump i have to add fluid then as the box lowers down it pushes the extra fluid on to the ground?


When the dumping piston lowers, there should be fluid being taken into the other side of the piston from the return hose. The fluid level in the reservoir should not change. Has the hose routing been changed from original design?
Gary

Jul 26, 2011 | V, Inc. Dump Trailer Pump 12v Dc Double...

1 Answer

Abs fuse


Fuses are listed here

* = maxi fuse

1*=50A I/P fuse panel
2*=40A blower motor relay
3*= 50A 4 wheel ABS module
4*=20a Main light switch-Instrument cluster
5*=50A Ignition switch, starter relay

6*=20A Transfer case relay
7*= NOT USED
8*=20A Auto Ride Control Switch/on off switch
9*=40A Auto Ride Control relay
10*=30A PCM power relay

mini fuses
1=10A A/C relay
2=20A Aux power point
3= not used
4=15A Fog lamps-Daytime lamps
5=10A Air Bag diagnostic monitor
6=10A Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
7=30A 4WABS module
8=30A PCM relay
9=20A Fuel Pump2.gif relay and RAP module
10= 15A Horn relay
11=15A Park Lamp relay-Main Light Switch
12=30A Main light switch--Multi Function switch
13=15A Heated O2 sensors, EGR Vacuum Regulator, EVR solenoid,Camshaft position (CMP) Sensor,
Cannister Vent Solenoid, A4LD Auto Transmission
14=30A Generator-Voltage regulator


Interior fuse panel (mini fuses)

1=7.5A Power mirror switch
2=7.5A Blower motor relay,PAD module,Air Bag diagnostic monitor
3=7.5A Trailer tow connector
4=10A Left headlamp
5=10A Data link connector (DLC)
6=7.5A Air bag diagnostic monitor, Blower motor relay, Passive deactivation Module (PAD)
7=7.5A Trailer Tow connector
8=10A Right headlamp, Daytime running lamps (DRL) module, Foglight relay
9=7.5A Stop Lamp switch
10= 7.5A Speed control-amplifier assembly,Brake pressure switch, Generic electronoc Module (GEM)
Shift lock actuator, Blend door actuator, Main light switch, RABS resistor, A/C heater assembly
Flasher
11= 7.5A Instrument cluster, Main light switch, RABS resistor
12= 10A Power window relay, Washer pump relay
13= 20A Stop lamp switch, Brake pressure switch
14= 20A Rear Anti Lock Brake system (RABS) module
**10A 4WABS module**

15=7.5A Instrument cluster
16= 30A Windshield wiper Motor, Wiper Hi-lo relay, wiper run/park relay
17=7.5A Cig lighter
18=15A Drivers unlock relay-All unlock relay
19=25A PCM power diode
20=7.5A RAP module GEM module, Radio
21=15A Flasher (hazard)
22=20A Aux power socket
23=15A Turn signals
24===not used
25= 7.5A GEM module, Instrument cluster
26= 10A Battery saver relay, Electronic Shift relay, Interior lamp relay
Power window relay,Electronic shift control module, transmission control
27=15A Switch,DRL, Backup lamp switch, DTR sensor,Instrument illumination dimming control module
Dome/map lamp, GEM,electronic shift,Interior lights,Glove box lamp and switch
28=7.5A GEM module-Radio
29= 15A Radio
30=15A Park lamps, trailer Tow relay
31===not used
32=10A rear blower
33=15A Headlamps, DRL module, Instrument cluster
34=7.5A Rear integrated control panel, CD
35=10A RABS test connector
36=7.5A CD, rear integrated control panel, memory seat, Message center Attached images fuse%20box001.jpg?imgmax=800 __________________

Oct 29, 2009 | 2003 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

F250 2004 4x4 not working, vacuum holds on lines to hub, motor works on the shift motor (position sensor also seems to work as lights went off after I manually shifted out of 4x4), not sure if vacuum...


With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum

level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.


The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

You may want to check the center pin of the solenoid wiring connector for power.

Sep 02, 2009 | 2004 Ford F250

1 Answer

Power trim on 60 hp yamaha quit working


find the solenoid for the trim it will be a the engine or on the trim motor it self get a test lite and find the power wire on the trim motor and with someone pushing the trim button test the hot on the motor if there is no power it is the solenoid if there is power u my have a brush stuck in the trim motor itself but 99% of the time it is the solenoid u can tap the trim motor and see if that gets a result but dont hit hard

May 08, 2009 | Yamaha 12V Air Pump

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