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It's very difficult to find someone familiar with a particular model of a particular brand of exercise bike, but I pulled up some pics that seem to show that yours can have one of two types of crank. One is called a "one-piece" crank. Typically it is removed by unscrewing parts from the left side after removing the left pedal (left-hand/reverse threads). You may have to remove the housing to access and remove the parts. The other is a 3-piece cranks, and the arm will have a plastic cover at the axle. If you remove that dust cap you will see a bolt underneath. One has to remove that bolt and then use a specialized tool (crank extractor) to remove the crank arm. Check with a bike shop (take in the unit or take some good pics) for replacement.
This bike had a square-taper bottom bracket. What happens with this type is that the bolts holding them on become slightly loose over time. The crank arm begins to wobble and the "wollows" out the inner hole on the crank arm such that a new one will have to be purchased. They are about $15.
The only parts envolved are the cranl arm and the both that holds it in place.
The most likely cause of this problem is that the back wheel is not in straight. If you loosen the 2 nuts that hold the wheel in you'll be able to align it with the chain. When you stand behind the bike the wheel and chain should be parallell.
You should also keep the chain oiled as it helps to stop it hopping across the gears.
There could be 3 reasons for a wobble - usually not concerning the gears.
1The wheel is bent (hit something).
Turn the bike upside down and slowly spin the wheel while looking along it,
You should be able to see a wobble not matter how small.
2The wheel is NOT in the wheel mounts evenly
Same as number 1 - and if it does wobble, unscrew the wheel nuts and push into the forks.
3The wheel has one or more broken spokes.
This applies to mountain bikes more as a harder trail can break spokes and this bends the wheel.
One again - upturn the bike and press you hand onto every spoke, sometimes they break but do not come off the wheel.
Hope that helps -- Ray
Generally the Speedometer is in miles per hour, that is the standard. If you, when looking at the dial gauge, see the numbers go above 50 then it's in kilometers.
Exercise bicycles will give you a pretty accurate account of Speed and this in turn gives you an accurate account of distance. But this is the distance that wheel traveled, not the equivelant that you would be able to do on the road on an actual bike. Yoiu do not have factors like wind resistance, rolling resistance, and terrain to deal with. You will go further on the stationary bike then on the road if you are judging by distance, as you will be pedaling at a higher speed.
I looked into this thinking is must be a simple belt, or tention wheel, but these devices are much more complex than the average exercise machine. See the Recumbent selection here.
It appears that the tentioning device is a magnetic brake.
This would require that it be plugged into a power source and programmed to provide a desired tention.
I've never used one of these so I can't say what kind of programming options there are or where they are found.
If the wheel wobbles it may be the cones are loose (these are the next bolts along from the nuts that hold the wheel on and they have a locking nut) so these need to be adjusted to stop any play in the spindle whilst still allowing free rotation of the spindle then the wobble should have gone .
More than likely the wheel is out of true. There are 2 choices,
1 Buy a spoke wrench and attemp to true the wheel. You can do this by spinning the wheel to locate the spot where the wheel goes furthest to one side then tighten the spoke coming from the opposite side. Do this slowly 1/2 turn at a time. Do not over tighten the spoke. It may be necessary to loosen the other side slightly.
Alternate spokes between both sides of wobble.
2 Take bike to a good local bike shop to be tuned and have the wheels trued. Most shops offer a tune up at low cost. A well tuned bike will last a long time.
If you are refering to a regular bicycle this means the derailer is not making the chain jump from gear to gear. You probably need a new shifter cable or the shifter cable came unhooked from the derailer. I would take your bike to a bike shop to have this reconnected and then they will adjust it for you.
If you are refering to an exercise bike then here may be your solution. From what I have seen on exercise bikes there are three different kind of bikes. I am refering to how there resistance works.
First type has a strap that wraps around the wheel. There is a some kind of a nut and a bolt that holds that strap around the wheel. You simply need to tighten that nut. The strap will stretch over time and that is why you do not have the same resisteace you had when the bike was new. Afer you tighten this you will find that regular tensioner works better.
The Second type of exercise bike has what appears to be brake pads contacting the wheel. Basically your peddaling the bike with the brakes on. Pretty simple concept. Again there should be some sort of adjustment around this pad that is touching the wheel. Probably a screw or a bolt. Some even have adjusters that you can turn with your fingers.
The new and improved exercise bikes have what is called magnetic resistance. This is where your resitance is created by a magnet and some sort of power source such as batteries or your bike being plugged into a wall outlet. If you are using batteries replace them. I found that with my elyptical exerciser new batteries made a world of difference in the resistance settings. If changing the batteries doesn't help then there may be another problem. This could be the computer. Just check your user manual and I am sure you can get it replaced.