Question about GE Washing Machines
How do you get the front panel off?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Follow these steps: 1. Remove the three screws in the back of the machine that holds the top of the washer on. The top case should slide back and then lift off. 2. With the dispenser tray off, remove the torx screw behind it. 3. Now take a putty knife and gently place it under the console just above the door. Gently lift up and pull the console from the left hand side first. It should gradually pop off. Be careful not to damage any of the wire connectors. Lay the console across the top of the washer. 4. Remove door by removing the hinge screws. Support the door while loosening so that it doesn't fall. 5. Feel around behind the rubber door boot at the door opening. There will be a wire retaining hoop holding the rubber boot to the door frame. Find the tension spring at the bottom of the door and pull the hoop out of the groove. 6. Pull door boot off the door frame opening and push it inside the drum. DO NOT remove the boot from the wash tub. 7. Remove the three screws holding the door latch assembly to the front of the washer. 8. The only thing left holding the front of the washer on is four screws. One on each corner at the top and one on each corner at the bottom. Once you remove the last four screws the front of the washer will come right off. I now this seems very involved, but it is simple if you follow the steps given. Reassemble everything in reverse order. Use care when handling the wire harness of the console and the door. Make sure you put the door latch assembly back on FIRST before you reinstall the rubber boot. When reinstalling the door boot reseat the gasket all the way around the door frame first. Then take the wire hoop and reinsert in the groove starting at the 12 o'clock position and work your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. You might want to have a second person assist you with holding the hoop in place at this point. With tension holding the hoop into the groove, take the remaining portion of the wire hoop and pull down while spreading the tension spring apart to snap it back into place along the bottom of the door. This will be your greatest challenge. The console will snap back into place by inserting the bottom edge first then snapping the top into place. Let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Aug 14, 2007
SOURCE: kenmore washer
No need to remove the back panel on this model. You can access everything by removing the washer cabinet. Here's how:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
NOTE: The washer will NOT operate with the lid switch connector unplugged. If you wish to attempt to test the washer for leaks with the casing removed, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. This can be accomplished by jumpering the two black wires together at the lid switch receptacle. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to jumper the wires with the washer plugged in! Attach jumper, then plug the washer in.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Now, you stated your washer leaks during the rinse cycle. Double check all hose connections on the water pump (located directly in front under the wash tub). The pumps have also been known to start leaking along the seams. NOTE: If the pump leaks, it is NOT serviceable and must be replaced. They do not come apart.
To re-install washer case:
1. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on May 12, 2008
The rubber seal is known as a bellow. If the bellow is torn, more than likely it IS the cause of your leak. Your only course of action is the replace it. Searspartsdirect.com carries replacements. Just type in your model (as you provided) and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading for item number 1 (part #8182119). It is not a cheap part, but it will cost you much more to have an appliance repair company install it for you. This is not a difficult repair, and you can accomplish this on your own if you follow these steps:
Some additional parts that normally do not need replaced, but you may consider just in case are the front and back clamps that hold the bellow in place. They are listed under the same heading as items 6 and 14. They don't cost that much and may consider them just in case you need them. In particular, the front clamp, can break or the spring becomes stretched. Inspect these items just to be sure.
I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.
PS You may also try repairclinic.com for comparative pricing. They also carry the same parts (sometimes for less).
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
tip the unit back and lean against the wall so you can look under it you will see the pump it is plastic. more than likley this is your problem. let me know if you need more assistance
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
You need to replace your pump. Make sure you have the washer either on something that will absorb water, or fix it outside/garage. Because these pumps hold extra water and that is why it is not recommended to keep them outside to do laundry in colder climates. The water can freeze in the pump and wreck it. Good luck. They actually are pretty easy to replace.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
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