BEN Broom and Wade air compressor and vertical receiver. I have looked at the general condition of the receiver and it is built to massive proportions. It must be 1/4" plate and is welded with no signs of corrosion or damage. I use it at a max pressure of 90 psi but it has no test certificate and to be honest I feel at least a little uneasy despite its overall condition. I KNOW the answer is to get it cert'd but it means dismantaling a large amount of kit. When I look at other receivers I can't belive this would present an explosion hazard. In your experience of BEN Broom and Wade receivers what do you think? It's probably a 1958! Thanks. K.
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Re: Confidence in the integrity of the air receiver.
The only way to trust this receiver is like you said have it certified these will rust at the welds inside which would be the weak spot. If it was always drained of water and had a filter on intake no telling how long it will last. I have not seen a compressor receiver break off I would expect a small leak first. Hope this helps
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Most NAPA central distribution stores have an extensive selection of bolts. Take one to make sure it's right. The thread per inch is also critical to know. Dorman products also. Fastenal now has many locations (have to buy a box), or Grainger Industrial Supply.
The check valve in the receiver tank is leaking. the check valve is located in the top of the tank where the copper discharge line from the compressor attaches. Shut off the power and bleed all the air from the receiver. Remove the copper line then remove the brass check valve. Once removed look in the check and make sure trash of some type is keeping it open. If trash is the problem clean and install. If not it will need to be replaced.
Yes it is always a good practice to bleed the tank down. there is a check valve in the top of the receiver tank that keeps air from blowing back Thur the system. However if it's leaking you will have pressure on the oil sump. As for type of oil use a 30 weight non detergent oil. Recommend using ir's t30 all season or another type made for air compressor's.
Is it failing at the copper/brass fitting going into the tank (the tank check valve)? That area can be 250 degrees F or more during operation. Plastic, in my opinion is not acceptable here. I'd recommend getting some 1/4" OD copper refrigeration tubing and the appropriate compression fittings, and replacing the line.
Sounds like the unloader valve is not working properly. The unloader typically is at the end of a tube going to the pressure switch. The unloader is tripped when the pressure switch cuts off. The purpose of the unloader is to bleed the pressure from the cylinder when the compressor cuts off so the next time the compressor cuts on it will be starting in an unloaded condition.
when the compressor cuts off you should hear a discharge of air for about 3 to 5 seconds if the switch is working properly. The unloader can be adjusted if necessary by loosening the jam nuts and adjusting the unloader towards the lever on the pressure switch.
Air compressor pumps can use different grades of oil depending on weather conditions and usage, however do not use engine oil. Some Ingersol Rand pumps use a synthetic oil available through WWGrainger on the web. (generally not model specific) If this pump is lightly used you can use the less expensive compressor oil sold at Lowes lumber made by Campbel Hausfeld. It sells for less than $3.00 a bottle. Generally speaking, under normal weather conditions and light duty use, do not worry about the weight of the oil; just make sure that it stays clean and at the right level. If your compressor is running hot, it may be due to other problems like the check valve, head gaskets leaking between cylinders or chambers or high usage. If, however you just want the best oil for your compressor, use the synthetic. It is usually colored blue or green. This oil is special formulation to prevent breakdown in high heat and will not allow carbon for form on parts or inside of the hoses. enjoy