Question about Haier Refrigerators
We bought a second hand Haier fridge/freezer for our 24" space - it fits wonderfully and I like the look. Unfortunately the upper freezer compartment completely freezes over then drips condensing water onto the lower shelves. It needs to be emptied, unplugged and defrosted about once a month. I leave it overnight with pans and towels to catch the water, moving all the food to a cooler. This chore is annoying, makes a huge mess and I don't even need the freezer (since I have a large upright one). Can anyone tell me what might be causing the icing-over in the first place, or perhaps if it possible to remove the freezer compartment entirely?
Not possible to remove the freezer
the most likely [problem is that the seals around the freezer door are not sealing properly
that allows the atmosphere into the freezer and the humidity then freezes and turns to ice , causing the problem
adjust the door and change that door seal
when defrosting the freezer, remove all the frozen food, and place a fan at the open door
atmospheric temp air will defrost a badly iced freezer in around 1 hour with the use of the fan on high speed
Posted on Apr 05, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
not much can be done about compressore noise, short of replacing it. but your drain issue is easily fixed, with that whirlpool heat strap you mentioned.it actually wraps around the heater in frezer section and the idea is that when the unit goes into a defrost cycle(3 or 4 times a day) the heater heats the strap(which runs into drain tube) up as well, preventing tube from freeezing up and eventually backing up into your freezer floor
Posted on Feb 24, 2008
The problem is the defrost drain trough is plugged with ice. You will have to turn off the refrigerator, remove the freezer back panel and use a baby aspirator to help you apply and remove hot water to melt the ice. Then insert the aspirator in the drain hole to blow out any thing that may have gotten lodged inside. You will hear the water draining now to the pain underneath the refrigerator. Hope that helps you, good luck!!
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
The accumulated ice you saw is of course the source of the water. The refrigerator will eventually rid itself of the excess ice and the problem will therefore disappear on it's own after a while. The drip pan is normally filled with only a small amount of water, and that is dried up by the condenser cooling fan under the fridge. The pan is removable from most units, but not without making a mess. I suppose you can make and clean up the mess one time and be done with it.
Posted on May 20, 2009
Hi, I can help you. The drain is plugged in the freezer section. Could I get the model #?
Some models need an after market drain heat strip added.
Please let me know and I can get you through tis.
Posted on May 30, 2009
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