Question about Refrigerators
YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE COMRESSOR RELAY AND OVER LOAD IT COME AS A KIT WHEN YOU PULL THE OLD ONE OFF AND SHAKE IT WILL SOUND BROKE INSIDE A NEW ONE WILL NOT MAKE A NOISE WHEN YOU SHAKE IT HOPE THIS HELPS
Posted on Nov 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The overload/relay on the compressor is shorted . This is the piece with 2 or 3 wires connected to it , mounted on the compressor . The part # you need is 8201786 . Complete mounting instructions , come with this kit . Easily replaceable .
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
Pierce, there was a service bullitin put out on this model. TDR-0010A-B. Had to do with normal freezer, warm fresh food compartment. Maytag issued a kit that included a new thermostat and damper assy. to solve this problem. Bullitin came out in 2002. If you are not having a defrost issue and all fans are running normal, I would call Maytag and inquire about the above posted bullitin, It may be covered. Catriver...post back.
Posted on Sep 04, 2006
Hello. Thanks for choosing fixya! Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up
on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on
the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the
freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately
four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the
self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool.
Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the
circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount
of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils,
cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine
if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable
food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several
towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow).
This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice
build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal
setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with
one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
1. The defrost timer
2. The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
3. The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem
with the refrigerant level or the compressor.
Hope this helps, Regards, Joe
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
Check the coils underneath the fridge. Check the coils in back if accessible. Clean the coils if covered in excessive dust it may help. Make sure the vent on fridge side isn't blocked or plugged.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
HI. i would recommend to check the relay first, then the compressor last to confirm total failure. If both devices test out ok, this will lead to a failed main power control board.
The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each modle). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.
COMPRESSOR TEST PROCEDURE
The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. Generally the same proximity of the relay. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. The main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before beginning. Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multimeter displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multimeter still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multimeter should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.
NOTE_ If both components test out ok, the culprit will be a faulty main control board.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
Testimonial: "good advise. exactly what i asked for. thanks"
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