Last year I had the alarm for the car disconnected. I had to reset the alarm turning on and off the ignition in a certain pattern.... thought I would never have to use again so didn't write down the pattern. Guess what. I need to reset the box. I changed out a dead battery and the alrm triggered. Now i need to reset the box and don't know how. HELP
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Engine immobiliser must be disabled by a Rover TedtBook. Most likely only your local dealer will be so equipped. There are ways to work around or through thus common isssue. Be sure youve done the following before dropping the bucks at the dealer:
Replace batteries in your remote
Resync remote (instructions in your owners manual)
Try resetting the alarm ECM by disconnecting negative battery cable, turn ignition to second position, leave drivers door open, then reattach your negative lead, shut the hood, get in the drivers seat, turn off the ignition then attempt starting. Hoid and drivers door must be shut when you attempt to turn it over.
Last but not least therd is the EKA procedure. Step by step instructiona available on this and many other sites. Google "EKA procedure" adding your model and year in the search box.
Good luck. Feel free to message me directly if you are unable to find the instructions.
Dead battery armed the security system. Remove the battery cable let the system reset. Charge the battery. Use the key to unlock the door instead of the keyless entry. This resets the alarm once the battery is charged.
First, Have your Battery tested. The Alarm systems in Ford made Products are very sensitive to Voltage. There are 3 systems in the car which interrupt power, the Alarm system (horn honking) and the Battery saver and finally the starter interlock system.
The Alarm system will do several things to disable the car from starting. It will reduce the voltage to the starter to prevent the engine from turning over. Some will even kill the ignition system so that if the starter is jumped, the car still won't start.
The Battery saver will disconnect any system to prevent discharge below a minimum threshold. Unfortunately, when the Alternator is working extra hard to charge a really bad battery: it will disconnect the charging circuit because it reads the Draw going to the Alternator to produce the power as a parasitic drain. Even at 70mph I have seen the charging disconnected and the vehicle coast to a stop when the electric runs out.
The last system worth mentioning is the Starter interlock. Under the dash and at the top of the Brake pedal lever is a switch. When you press the brake pedal, the switch allows the starter to crank provided the shifter is not in D or R. Drivers feet routinely hit this switch and either move it or break it. When it breaks it can short and drain the battery.
As you mentioned a Random problem, the Brake switch can shake to create a random problem if it is loose or broken. Your rear brake lights can be affected.
With the horn honking, at least part of your problem is the Alarm system. You can have a bad ignition switch too, which reads the keychip to disable the alarm. Your keychip may be bad and setting off the Alarm.
I had a new Lincoln myself which set off the Alarm randomly. I actually slept inside the car one night so I could turn off the alarm in the Apartment complex parking lot. Did'nt know if it would start again if the battery was disconnected and then reconnected. The Battery was shorted with less than 1000 miles on the car. It was a factory defective battery less than 3 months old.
But your car has many years and miles on it so it was worth mentioning the wear items. I hope my solution is helpful.
The car's computer wont let it start? Well, if you changed the battery and the viper alarm is the issue; locate the push button valet/programming switch. Turn the ignition on, press and release the switch. The alarm will disarm and you can start the vehicle. To put the alarm in valet, turn the ignition on then off, within 10 seconds press and release the valet switch. The LED will illuminate solid to show that the system is in valet.
You should have just purchased a battery charger and then you wouldn't have disconnected the battery and un-paired the alarm system and immobilizer. There would have been enough residual energy in a flat battery to keep the immobilizer happy.
Disconnect the battery completely for at least 2 hours. Hold the positive and negative terminals together for 5 minutes. Put the key in the ignition and connect the negative lead of the battery. Connect the positive in one swift movement. Leave the vehicle for 5 minutes to reset and re-pair the chip in the key and the chip in the ignition lock.
It would have worked if the key was in the ignition when you connected the new battery.
last ditch effort , disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes and hope your system re sets itself , not knowing what make your car is , makes this hard to answer, or if it was a factory alarm or aftermarket ,,,, If its a factory alarm, you can do this
Open the door with the key. (the alarm will sound but ignore that) Close the doors, put the key in the ignition Turn everything off that takes power when you got the ignition on. Turn the key into first position (IIRC) the alarm will go off again, but still ignore that. Then sit back and relax for exactly 15minutes, without touching anything nor opening any doors. Then turn off the ignition. That's it. Your alarm is now disabled. Start the car and enjoy.