Question about GE DVLR223 Dryers

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GE dryer barely heating

My GE DVLR223ET1WW electric dryer takes a long time to dry my clothes. I checked the voltage at the receptacle and I was getting 120VAC, is it supposed to be 240VAC? The voltage at the end of the power cord to the dryer is 120VAC at L1, 0V at L2 and 0V at the ground wire. From what I've read L2 is also supposed to be 120VAC, but that's only possible if I'm getting 220VAC from the receptacle. Please help!

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  • Elisha Tigah Jan 06, 2009

    I'm only getting 120VAC at the receptacle and all other receptacles around that area. how to I change it to 220-240VAC? the dryer heats, it just takes too much time to dry. thanks for your help.

  • Elisha Tigah Jan 07, 2009

    I managed to find a 22-240VAC outlet. but when I connect it to the dryer, I get absolutely no heat although the dryer tumbles. I measured L1 and L2 on the dryer side and I get 122V each totaling 244VAC, so the power cord seems to be fine.
    However, when the dryer its connected to 120VAC, I get some heat but not much to dry clothes in one cycle. what could be the problem?

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If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, you're supposed to read 120VAC at both L1 and L2. With the cord UNPLUGGED, check the voltage across L1 and l2 at the wall receptacle. You should read a cumulative of 220-240VAC. If you're only getting 120VAC, the problem is at your receptacle, which would explain why the dryer is not heating. The heating circuits and timer require 220VAC, while the drive motor only requires 120VAC. If the power at the receptacle is good, leave the dryer unplugged and check the continuity of the power cord from the end of the plug at L2 to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. You should read a short or 0 ohms. If the continuity of the plug is good, the problem may be a loose connection at the terminal block or a broken wire. If the continuity is bad (open), then it looks like you may have a bad power cord. Please post back if you have questions. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 07, 2009

    If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, you need a dedicated 220-240VAC outlet for it to operate correctly. The heating circuits and timer in an electric dryer require 220VAC to operate, while the motor uses a tap off of this source voltage and operates on 110VAC. If you are getting 220VAC at the outlet and the dryer tumbles, but you still do not have heat, you more than likely have a problem with the heating circuits. The following link explains:



    http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dry...



    I do not understand why you're attempting to run a dryer on 110VAC. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to explain to me. Your dryer will not operate on 110-120VAC service. In any case, please read through the link and let me know if this helps.



    For some helpful diagrams to assist you in identifying components on your dryer, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in the model number you provided. The heating circuits are listed under the "Drum, Heater Asm, Blower and Drive Assembly" heading. The thermostats are listed as items 505 thru 507. The heating element is listed as item 512. I would first recommend you check the safety thermostat (item 505) for continuity. It should read a short (0 ohms) if good. Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation, which leads to an overheating of the heating circuits. This usually results in the safety thermostat blowing. I would also recommend you check the heating element as well. The element should read a low resistance of about 15 ohms or less if good.



    I hope this helps you. If you still require assistance, please let me know.

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