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My gas dryer stopped heating so we took the burner assembly out, had continuity tested and everything but the ignitor checked out. Believe the ignitor burned up when a charcoaled mouse was discovered in the burner tube. Have installed the new ignitor and it still won't glow. Dryer works away flawlessly, just no heat from the ignitor.
My brother in law took the whole burner assembly to his appliance repair shop, they tested all the parts and pronounced them working except for a new ignitor I had purchased. They replaced that with one of their own (functional), but when it fired up it shattered. Long story short, 3 ignitors later, I have one installed and it just won't glow. This is getting very irritating, so I had a vodka & pomegranate juice. Now everything is better...the ignitor still isn't glowing but it is much less irritating. My brother in law took the whole burner assembly to his appliance repair shop, they tested all the parts and pronounced them working except for a new ignitor I had purchased. They replaced that with one of their own (functional), but when it fired up it shattered. Long story short, 3 ignitors later, I have one installed and it just won't glow. This is getting very irritating, so I had a vodka & pomegranate juice. Now everything is better...the ignitor still isn't glowing but it is much less irritating.
My ignitor is great--since all the burner assembly parts tested out okay, I decided to snoop under the top to look for a thermal fuse that might have tripped when the mouse (R.I.P.) burned up the original ignitor. Didn't have to get that far because my bro-in-law hadn't reconnected the control panel with the rest of the dryer. Plugged it in, fired it up and the glow bar is glowing an eerie orange. Thanks for the suggestions, I have mucho laundry to do!!My ignitor is great--since all the burner assembly parts tested out okay, I decided to snoop under the top to look for a thermal fuse that might have tripped when the mouse (R.I.P.) burned up the original ignitor. Didn't have to get that far because my bro-in-law hadn't reconnected the control panel with the rest of the dryer. Plugged it in, fired it up and the glow bar is glowing an eerie orange. Thanks for the suggestions, I have mucho laundry to do!!
AnonymousMar 27, 2014
gas coming through but no ignitor actiongas coming through but no ignitor action
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Hi!! make sure that you have 120 volts going to the glow ignitor.the gas valve will not turn on the gas if the ignitoe wont glow..if it glows the check yout coil boosters they are round and are located by the gas valve.then if not you have a bad timer.they are usually round and are black..good luck..
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If your dryer is not getting any heat, you need to make sure there is nothing blocking the vent. IE: LINT. Air flow is key to efficient drying. Make sure the dryer settings are appropriate for the clothes you want to dry. The timer selection, fabric selection, and the temperature selection all play important roles in proper dryer operation.
Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
• Heating element (For Electric Models)
• Burner operation (For Gas Models)
• Ignitor (For Gas Models)
• Thermal fuse
I WOULD START WITH:
To protect from over-heating, many dryers use what's commonly called a thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse gets too hot, it will blow, and completely shut down your dryer until it is replaced. This fuse is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. It's about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. When fuses blow, it means they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. A bad thermal fuse needs to be replaced. When replacing this fuse, check the dryer vents to make sure there is no lint buildup which can cause the heat to stay trapped and blow the fuse again.
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas.Check the coil for continuity with a Volt Ohm Meter. If there's no continuity, it means that the element is bad and you need to replace it.
If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.
Once you get into the machine first check the temp control on the blower housing then the fuse beside it for continuity. The the dryer cold the control should ge continuity. open control and no heat.open fuse no heat Any open safety no heat. If all the safetys is good nest take a look at the gas assembly. The gas assembly components all are powered up at once in an elaborate wiring scheme. The ignitor draws a lot of current, so much so that the coils will not yank open the valve till the ignitor is shut down. That is the job of the flame sensor. It shuts down the ignitor allowing the gas coils to do they job and yank open the gas valve, and the gas hits the ignitor and fires off a blast of hot air. It take only a moment to get the temp in the drum to 160f. And then that control I spoke of earlier shuts down the gas assembly. The clicking on and off and the whoosh of the blast of heat is repeated throughout the drying process. If the heat works some but dies then them solenoids is old and tired. A bad blower wheel could blow safetys
Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas. The heating element is a coil made from a nickel-chrome alloy, called nichrome.
When the burner is operating properly, the flame should be clean and blue.
If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.
If the ignitor doesn’t glow, look for a white or yellowish discoloration, or for a break in the ignitor. If this is something visible, just replace the ignitor.
I find that quite often the ignitor is out of alignment or the glass window is covered with lint. a gas dryer blows air through a
burner assembly to heat the air. The burner assembly consists
essentially of a gas valve, ignitor and a flame sensor. If any
part of the burner assembly malfunctions, the result will be low
or no heat and slow drying of the clothes.
There are two common styles of ignitors,
glow ignitors and spark ignitors. The ignitor ignites the gas
either by heating up and glowing, or by sparking. If the ignitor
fails, the dryer will not heat.
The easiest way to check the ignitor
is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select
a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner
assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should
begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the
ignitor is working.
Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer. If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot! If not then it's another one of these problems.
Defective Ignitor (Gas Only) When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking. A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly. You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of resistance.
If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve coils that are defective.
If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.
If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective. The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats, limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses. DRYER DOES NOT HEAT
Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)
If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.
An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.
Recent Customer Symptoms: The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.
Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only) The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a continuity check under room temperature.
Common Symptoms If the flame sensor is defective in the open position, the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started. However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite. In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of time.
Defective Thermostat The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.
The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.
There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.
Defective Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor. If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.
Location: The thermal fuse is located in different locations according to the model and brand of dryer.
Solution: Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter. If it is open, it will need to be replaced
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The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing
near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming
out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer
runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still
run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle)
thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas
valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the
no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is
energized the flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor.
When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the ignitor and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised
and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot ignitor
and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until
the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas
valve assembly. more here
My brother in law took the whole burner assembly to his appliance repair shop, they tested all the parts and pronounced them working except for a new ignitor I had purchased. They replaced that with one of their own (functional), but when it fired up it shattered. Long story short, 3 ignitors later, I have one installed and it just won't glow. This is getting very irritating, so I had a vodka & pomegranate juice. Now everything is better...the ignitor still isn't glowing but it is much less irritating.
My ignitor is great--since all the burner assembly parts tested out okay, I decided to snoop under the top to look for a thermal fuse that might have tripped when the mouse (R.I.P.) burned up the original ignitor. Didn't have to get that far because my bro-in-law hadn't reconnected the control panel with the rest of the dryer. Plugged it in, fired it up and the glow bar is glowing an eerie orange. Thanks for the suggestions, I have mucho laundry to do!!
gas coming through but no ignitor action
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