Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is an interesting problem. How long does it have to sit before you can get it to spin? Can you let it go through the cycle and then immediatly put it into spin and it work? This machine will not spin until the pressure switch senses the water has drained. So you could have a slow drain, a clogged pressure hose, or faulty switch. A clogged hose or faulty switch would usually cause it to fill with more water than normal also. A slow drain is most likely, check the drain hose when it is draining and see if it is putting out a strong flow or just slowly draining. I think you will find it to be slow. This will cause it to take up all or most of the spin time trying to drain the water. If it is slow draining, check the pump for a sock or some obstruction. If the drain is good, remove the top and remove the rubber hose from the pressure hose and blow through it. You should be able to blow through it easily. A restricted pressure hose will cause the machine to think it has water in it after it has drained.
Posted on Oct 05, 2007
This is the electronic washer. Unplug for two minutes, plugin then open and close lid 7 times. This will reset motor. Also make sure belt is not broken.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is an illustrated guide for how to access the console.
This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.
If the washer will drain but not spin the problem points to the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission.
The Whirlpool PDF has a very good explanation of how the assembly works.
Ours had the same problem, no draining or spinning unless the washer was stopped and restarted.
We replaced the neutral Drain Assembly for about $15 vs. $170 for a transmission.
If the Lid Switch is OK, please re-post a request for how to replace the neutral assembly.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for these washers.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
See the following:
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin
gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
All told, fixing ours cost less than $30 including about 16 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil (from an auto parts store) instead of $170 plus service for a new transmission.
Posted on Mar 14, 2010
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