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Kenmore model 110.92582100 will not do final spin, the timer moves but the washer does not spin. it will spin on the first spin so the lid switch is ok

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Final spin cycle for kenmore 417.40042990

This is an interesting problem. How long does it have to sit before you can get it to spin? Can you let it go through the cycle and then immediatly put it into spin and it work? This machine will not spin until the pressure switch senses the water has drained. So you could have a slow drain, a clogged pressure hose, or faulty switch. A clogged hose or faulty switch would usually cause it to fill with more water than normal also. A slow drain is most likely, check the drain hose when it is draining and see if it is putting out a strong flow or just slowly draining. I think you will find it to be slow. This will cause it to take up all or most of the spin time trying to drain the water. If it is slow draining, check the pump for a sock or some obstruction. If the drain is good, remove the top and remove the rubber hose from the pressure hose and blow through it. You should be able to blow through it easily. A restricted pressure hose will cause the machine to think it has water in it after it has drained.

Posted on Oct 05, 2007

the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: Intermittent spin cycle on Kenmore 90 Series washer

You may try the speed selection switch.....Ive had problems with these.

Posted on Jan 23, 2008

  • 512 Answers

SOURCE: GE washer no main motor run so no agitate or spin

This is the electronic washer. Unplug for two minutes, plugin then open and close lid 7 times. This will reset motor. Also make sure belt is not broken.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore washer 80 series model 110.23832100

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.23832100


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is an illustrated guide for how to access the console.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=5f1af8349a77f9dc5632b02160e0d6c6

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If the washer will drain but not spin the problem points to the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission.

The Whirlpool PDF has a very good explanation of how the assembly works.

Ours had the same problem, no draining or spinning unless the washer was stopped and restarted.

We replaced the neutral Drain Assembly for about $15 vs. $170 for a transmission.

If the Lid Switch is OK, please re-post a request for how to replace the neutral assembly.




Posted on Nov 19, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore 80 series model 110 23832100 - Washer

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+23832100&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for these washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin
gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

All told, fixing ours cost less than $30 including about 16 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil (from an auto parts store) instead of $170 plus service for a new transmission.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

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1 Answer

My Kenmore washer drains after the rinse cycle but won't spin at the end of it's cycle. If I manually set it to the spin cycle, it spins just fine. Desperate!!! The lid switch was just replaced about


Possible there is problem with the timer controller unit. It seems that the stepper motor is not moving to the next cycle until you manually move it to the spin. You can use some contact cleaners on the switch and also carefully try to see if the timer moves within , replacement is a costly issue and must be debated

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With the sympthoms your describing its sounds to me as if the timer is going to be the problem. IT could be a lid switch problem but since it does drain i can pretty much eliminate the lid switch,or even the motor and narrow it down to the timer.

Reply with the entire stack unit model number as found on a label inside of the DRYER door and i will give ya the part number for the washer timer.


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Kenmore 80 series washer, replaced lid switch already, will fill, wash (agitate) but stops before draining and spinning and will not run. Is the timer the next step for replacement? Model: 110.29852991


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Aug 14, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

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I have a kenmore washer model # 110.20722990 will agitate but will not move to the next cycle to drain or spin


If you can manually move the timer to spin and it works replace the timer. If you move to spin and it does not work, replace the lid switch.

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Sounds like a lid switch to me. The symptoms you describe are often caused by a lid switch malfunction. The switch may be loose or not making good contact. As you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it.

Replacement parts can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the lid switch will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). The lid strike is listed as item 20 (part #350733). You may also check repairclinic.com. They carry the SAME parts and sometimes offer a better price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

This is a simple and inexpensive repair if you wish to accomplish this on your own. A replacement switch usually costs between $25 and $35. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you require further assistance.

NOTE: Future reference (this is just constructive advice), if you are in the habit of slamming the washer lid or placing heavy objects on the it, this will cause damage to the lid switch. In addition, also make sure your washer lid is not bowed. Placing objects on the lid can cause the lid to bow and prevent it from making the proper contact with the lid switch. This will give you the same symptoms.

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1 Answer

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This is a very typical symptom of a lid switch that is either broken or has come loose. If your lid switch is mounted on the right hand side of the lid, make sure the mounting screws are tight and the lid strike is in place (this is a plastic piece on the lid that activates the switch when closed). If your lid switch is on the left hand side in the rear under the washer rim (out of view), you may have to adjust the rod that activates it. For instructions on how to access the lid switch and/or replace it, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If you need further assistance, please post back and let me know. You can also go to my profile and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker response.

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